Holo's - Step 2 vs. Step 3

**courtdale** · 12-09-2011, 09:33 AM

Since we discussed this recently, I thought I'd throw this up from just last night.

Here's a shot (a bad out of focus shot... it was late) showing the difference in holograms in a step 2 using Menzerna Power Finish and a LC 5.5" Hydro pad vs. a step 3 in which 85rd followed the Power finish. Pad was also switched to a CCS 4" polishing. I was freaking a little because I had never induced this amount of holograms before in a 2nd step, but this was my first time using the hyrdrotech pad, may have been the difference.

Regardless, finishing up with the 85rd made all the difference in the world. Both sides were thoroughly cleaned to remove all left over oils before the picture.

**embolism** · 12-09-2011, 09:43 AM

aren't you using a DA?

Power finish should finish down nicer than that using a DA

**sportscarhiatus** · 12-09-2011, 09:49 AM

Yeah I'm confused on the background. Are you saying your correction method induced holograms? Or are you trying to correct the holograms? Regardless, step 3 obviously is the way to go.

**courtdale** · 12-09-2011, 09:51 AM

No, I dont own a DA - Makita Rotary only. Yes, step 2 induced the holograms, step 3 cleaned them up.

**embolism** · 12-09-2011, 10:14 AM

what kind of bp were you using for the hydrotechs and how thick were the pads?

was just thinking that maybe a flexible foam bp would work better or maybe a thicker hydro pad (not the 7/8 in ones that work better on DA's)?

**courtdale** · 12-09-2011, 10:19 AM

Yes it was the 7/8, but I was using the padded BP.

**A.P.A.D.** · 12-09-2011, 11:15 AM

correct me if i am wrong, but wouldnt it be more cost efficient to purchase a DA like a GG or PC and just use that on the step 2, thus saving u a step? unless u started with wool on step 1 and then follow with the rotory with step 2 and finish with a DA?

i think it would be tough to finish with a rotory. i think Mike just did an article on this:

Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer

**courtdale** · 12-09-2011, 11:38 AM

Originally Posted by A.P.A.D.

correct me if i am wrong, but wouldnt it be more cost efficient to purchase a DA like a GG or PC and just use that on the step 2, thus saving u a step? unless u started with wool on step 1 and then follow with the rotory with step 2 and finish with a DA?

i think it would be tough to finish with a rotory. i think Mike just did an article on this:

Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer

Power Finish is a medium cut, it does finish nice with a DA, but I'm always going to follow it with a polish step. As long as my rotary gives me a flaw free polish step, a DA isnt really a necessity for me. I do plan on buying one eventually, but only as a "want".

**RaskyR1** · 12-09-2011, 12:13 PM

That's a big difference.

While I understand this was meant to be an illustration, I would like to note the following

Obviously the paint is going to play a big role in the final outcome (plus I'm not seeing it in person), but I've always used PO85RD as an optional final finish or "jeweling" polish only. IMO the finish should be 99% hologram free before using PO85RD and seeing the finish after step 2, I would have went with something a little more aggressive like M205 or 106FA. (you didn't list which pads you used either so that is also a factor)

Again, paint type will play a big role in the final outcome, but I'd rather be 100% sure and not risk holograms coming back later on.

Cheers,
Rasky

**courtdale** · 12-09-2011, 12:20 PM

Well luckily this is my car, so the concern of them coming back well, really isnt a concern since its mine. I had a few the last time I corrected as well, and my 85rd step cleaned them up just like this time. They didn't return. I thought I did list the pads:

1st - 105 w/LC Orange CCS
2nd - Menz PF w/Blue 5'5" HT (7/8) - (Tangerine 1.25 HT Probably would have been a better choice here)
3rd - 85rd w/Blue LC CCS Polish Pad