How do you remove opticoat 2.0 i screwed up the application :(

**RaskyR1** · 10-11-2011, 05:35 PM

Hey Stu,

Here is a video that show's my application method, hopefully it helps a little.

Opti-Coat 2.0 application.wmv - YouTube

**Robert8194** · 10-11-2011, 08:07 PM

Great video. Thanks. You make it look easy.

**RaskyR1** · 10-11-2011, 10:27 PM

Originally Posted by Robert8194

Great video. Thanks. You make it look easy.

Thanks! It really is that easy after a car or two.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**sohail99** · 10-11-2011, 10:46 PM

You can just use a finishing polish on the hood to level out the high spots, no need to remove everything!

**Mobile detail** · 10-12-2011, 02:31 AM

That video is awesome rasky, it explains so much and it's short which us perfect. Thanks for the info bud!

**gmck** · 10-12-2011, 04:40 AM

That is a great video of an Opti-Coat/Opti-Guard application.

However I still think there are a couple of tips that new users to OC/OG may want to consider.

If you are doing a bonnet such as Rasky did, a safety measure would be to prop the bonnet open so there is no risk of accidently applying the product to the adjacent panels, keeping with the concept of one panel at a time. Obviously the same applies to doors, boot lids etc. What you don’t want to do is accidently apply the product to a panel that you weren’t intending to, because invariably if you don’t notice it, that is where you will leave a dab of product and of course it will flash off without being buffed off, resulting in a high spot or stain.

I’ve always been concerned with not applying enough product so I’ve developed a variation of Rasky’s technique where after applying the product to the pad, I then dab the pad over a number of spots on the panel which then leaves quite visible droplets of product on the panel. For example on the bonnet of that BMW in Rasky’s video I would divide it into two sections the same as Rasky did. I’d then apply the pad to say 6 equally placed spots on half that bonnet leaving behind the drops of product I referred to. Then it is just a matter of moving the pad around, starting from around the middle of the panel picking up the 6 different deposits of product. You definitely want to avoid starting from the edge of a panel. Work from the middle to the edges. If you decide you would like a heavier coating repeat the process after you have spread the original amounts. There is no real problem with the product flashing; you actually want it to flash, so that you can see where you haven’t covered the surface evenly. Once you are satisfied with the coverage then just buff off using very light pressure with a short nap MF. I’ve not even changed my technique when I moved from using OC to OG.

For quite a few applications, I persisted with the idea of only using the applicator to buff off, in the belief that if I used a MF, I would be removing product. However it didn’t take all that long to come to the conclusion that it is easier to over apply the product and then use the MF to even things out. The change in technique resulted in the same amount of product being used anyway. For an average sized car like that BMW, I still only use about 5-6 cc’s as I only do the paint, no wheels, glass or trim.

**k_lewis** · 04-20-2012, 08:30 AM

Hello all- first post, have been a long time reader and have appreciated the tips I've found at this forum.

I have a question on opti-coat. I applied it yesterday evening to my black nissan crew cab, first did an IPA wipe down to clean off paint, truck is brand new and I had initially applied a coat of Prima Hydro sealant. IPA took off the Prima no prob.

I definitely messed up my opti application- I obviously put it on too heavy and ended up with a lot of hazing streaks (used the entire 20cc for the crew cab). However, I even used it on the plastic dash / door panels / center console and other interior plastic trim so that is one reason I used so much product.

It was my "noob" mistake as I thought I was applying thin, and it looked like it flashed clear, but I made the mistake of not using a flashlight to really "see" if it left a haze as I went. I also did not use a MF to light wipe each panel as I went, I used the applicator to gently knock down any heavy areas that did not initially flash clear. I assumed that if it flashed clear, it was actually clear. it is not.

After I was done, I went back around and used a flashlight and saw hazing everywhere. The hood came out the best and only had a couple of small haze areas. most hazing was on side panels. I used a MF towel to buff off haze and I seem to have gotten most of it out. The opti was not tacky at this point (about an hour had passed) but I had to rub quite hard to get haze off. That was my only option at that point since I was out of opti and I did not want to let it cure with the haze.

Should I re-apply another round of opti, or just hit the surface with some 3M fine-cut or polish compound on any remaining haze?

To anyone else new using the opti, it needs to definitely go on thinner than you think and you definitely need a flashlight to check each panel as you go. I made the mistake of getting my "instructions" from a youtube video showing an Opti guy applying the product to panels and not doing a light buff or checking the panel with a flashlight as he went. I guess that is not the right method.

My interior plastic trim looks like a million dollars with the opti on it, especially the dash. the truck looks "wet" on the outside, but if you use a flashlight up to some areas of the paint you can see a tiny bit of haze remaining in areas.

**k_lewis** · 04-20-2012, 10:47 AM

Here is the "instruction" video I was referring to. If this person does work for Optimum, them perhaps this should be reviewed and removed if inaccurate. OptiCoatApp.AVI - YouTube

Note there is nothing stated about wiping with a MF cloth as you go, using a flashlight to check, potential for hazing, etc. The video in this forum thread would definitely seem to be the right way to do it.

**RaskyR1** · 04-20-2012, 11:14 AM

Originally Posted by k_lewis

Here is the "instruction" video I was referring to. If this person does work for Optimum, them perhaps this should be reviewed and removed if inaccurate. OptiCoatApp.AVI - YouTube

Note there is nothing stated about wiping with a MF cloth as you go, using a flashlight to check, potential for hazing, etc. The video in this forum thread would definitely seem to be the right way to do it.

There are many ways to skin a cat, or so the saying goes.

I think Chris made an excellent video showing a process that works for him and I made one that works well for me. Each user will have different experiences with the coating as there are so many factors come into play that can change how it works.

I do know that it has been clearly stated many times that OC is NOT for use on interiors. As far as the paint goes just give it a light polish with Optimum Polish II or Finish to level out any high spots and re-coat if needed, using less product this time around.

Rasky

**k_lewis** · 04-20-2012, 02:43 PM

Originally Posted by RaskyR1

There are many ways to skin a cat, or so the saying goes.

I think Chris made an excellent video showing a process that works for him and I made one that works well for me. Each user will have different experiences with the coating as there are so many factors come into play that can change how it works.

I do know that it has been clearly stated many times that OC is NOT for use on interiors. As far as the paint goes just give it a light polish with Optimum Polish II or Finish to level out any high spots and re-coat if needed, using less product this time around.

Rasky

Thank you Rasky- the interior plastic is literally the same as some of the exterior trim plastic, which (from what I've read, the little I know) is ok to apply to. what potential adverse effects are there from using it on the interior? It looks incredible.

TIA