Do you time your passes, count them, or watch your product??

[courtdale]

I've read all of the above referenced in regards to correction. Some have said 5 minutes per section, i've heard 3 complete passes, and i've heard working product until it is visibly breakign down.

First time out, I want to say I followed the product breakdown protocal, but I probably stopped short of that and was weak on pressure as well as rotary speed to err on the side of caution.

What should i be using as a timer in best practice, and what speed should i be topping out at on a Makita assuming i dont buff like a baby again. (i use the pyramid method on the speeds but i never went past 3 on the dial).

[C. Charles Hahn]

I've found the best practice is to read the surface as you're going. The product will tell you when it's done working.

The main reason I consider that the best approach is that different products/combinations react differently depending on the paint you're working on, the environmental conditions, etc. so you can't say "This product always takes exactly 5 passes or 3 minutes to break down."

[SuperGlide]

I've read all of the above referenced in regards to correction. Some have said 5 minutes per section, i've heard 3 complete passes, and i've heard working product until it is visibly breakign down.

What should i be using as a timer in best practice, and what speed should i be topping out at on a Makita assuming i dont buff like a baby again. (i use the pyramid method on the speeds but i never went past 3 on the dial).

All of this doesn't really mean anything if your arm speed is to fast. Work on good
form, not to slow but nice consistant arm speed keeping the pad flat when you can.
Every job is a little different, do a few passes and check your work.

First time out, I would keep it 1200 max. As far as time just do a few solid passes
and check your work

[weavers]

Most of the time i just guess how many passes and watch the product. Sometimes I count out load how many passes. If I hear myself say, "1" I am more likely to remember how many passes I've done. Its been a habit for me to do 5-6 passes with compound/polish and 2 with wax. It works great with a DA. Maybe with a rotory watch the product and paint more, bigger risk of burn through.

Using a timer sounds like a good idea. Either way my biggest struggle is arm speed and just being consistent. I know a slower arm speed does a better job, but doesn't get the job any faster.

[Jimmie]

A combo. I watch the product while looking through the product to see the condition of the paint.
My Makita is in storage so I can't go look at the dial. I think that 3 setting your using is 1800rpm (but not positive). If it is you don't need to ever go above that. As someone above said 1200 is max. I use 900-1200-900 for most of my polishing

[silverfox]

I prefer SMAT products so I've learned to read the paint not the product as it doesn't break down.

[sohail99]

With a DA, I move 1 inch per second and do 6 section passes(count each of them) on one section!
In an article, Mike has mentioned the speed to move the DA with, in inch per second!

[BobbyG]

I've found the best practice is to read the surface as you're going. The product will tell you when it's done working.

"You" have to determine if it's working and when is enough...

[CEE DOG]

I've found the best practice is to read the surface as you're going. The product will tell you when it's done working.

The main reason I consider that the best approach is that different products/combinations react differently depending on the paint you're working on, the environmental conditions, etc. so you can't say "This product always takes exactly 5 passes or 3 minutes to break down."

I agree, also I noticed when using a rotary you can feel a change as well.