Does opti-coat protect against swirls & chips?

**Chris Thomas** · 09-08-2011, 11:20 AM

Originally Posted by Kurt_s

Hey Chris,

My biggest concern with Opti-coat is the need to completely remove the coating if I need to fix a section. God knows that my cars are constantly pelted with SoCal freeway debris. Not a big issue with waxes or sealants for a buck or two but I would love some true body armour. Do I misunderstand the issue?

While we do recommend recoating an entire section instead of spot repairs, you don't have to remove coating. You just need to go over it with a polish to "scuff" it so that the second layer will stick.

**BobbyG** · 09-08-2011, 12:01 PM

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimum

While we do recommend recoating an entire section instead of spot repairs, you don't have to remove coating. You just need to go over it with a polish to "scuff" it so that the second layer will stick.

This is the same recommendation with any coating as it allow the new payer to mechanically bond to the under layer...

**Kurt_s** · 09-08-2011, 01:28 PM

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimum

While we do recommend recoating an entire section instead of spot repairs, you don't have to remove coating. You just need to go over it with a polish to "scuff" it so that the second layer will stick.

Optimum polish or finish ok to "scuff" the section?

How long will the syringe of OC 2.0 last once it's opened if I need to "fix" a section or panel?

**Chris Thomas** · 09-08-2011, 01:44 PM

Originally Posted by Kurt_s

Optimum polish or finish ok to "scuff" the section?

How long will the syringe of OC 2.0 last once it's opened if I need to "fix" a section or panel?

Either should be fine, but if using Finish do at least 2 passes.

As long as you replace the black cap to keep our moisture it is very stable. Opening it is not a countdown unless you leave it exposed...that's the reason we use a syringe instead of a bottle.

**Kurt_s** · 09-08-2011, 01:57 PM

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimum

Either should be fine, but if using Finish do at least 2 passes.

As long as you replace the black cap to keep our moisture it is very stable. Opening it is not a countdown unless you leave it exposed...that's the reason we use a syringe instead of a bottle.

Thanks Chris. Even though OC is a permanent coating, my cars are always getting pelted by flying garbage from the LA freeways. I've been hit by plywood, cardboard boxes, truck tire pieces, rocks, and pieces of metal over the years that got kicked up from cars in other lanes. Sadly, it's normally the week after I fixed the last one.

**FUNX650** · 09-08-2011, 02:50 PM

Originally Posted by BobbyG

This is the same recommendation with any coating as it allow the new payer to mechanically bond to the under layer...

BobbyG...I did not know this!
Perhaps you can advise otherwise, or clarify my following thoughts on how coatings bond.

-As you probably know, I am not a chemist (nor want to be), but I find myself doing a lot of research/questioning about things chemical. As such:

-I realize that a mechanical bond, used in this sense, is just another type of chemical bond. Also, it's a fairly 'new term' (since the 1980's) that's now being more and more associated with "bottom-up" true nanotechnology (less than 100nm).

-I know there has been great strides in new technologies, but I don't know whether this type of mechanical-bonding applies to any current car care products or not.

-I was under the understanding that the new coatings, maybe even Opti-Coatings, were of/by chemical-bonding such as: co-valent, hydrogen, or ionic, etc.
-I'm sure Chris can state which one is applicable to the Opti-Coatings.

But, who knows. It may really take the 'new' mechanical-bonding in order for additional Opti-Coatings' film layers to form a bond with each other. Then some of my concerns above could be moot.

Nothing personal BobbyG....seeing mechanical-bonding just got the wheels aturning...that's all.

Thanks for any input you, or others, may have in regards to this matter.

Bob

**Chris Thomas** · 09-08-2011, 07:08 PM

OC forms a covalent bond 20x stronger than the hydrogen bonds sealants/waxes form.

Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk

**FUNX650** · 09-08-2011, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by Chris@Optimum

OC forms a covalent bond 20x stronger than the hydrogen bonds sealants/waxes form.

Sent from my ViP4 viaTapatalk

Thank you Chris.

That's what I thought....I'm sure you had answered this 'what kind of bonding' question for me a while ago.

Thanks again.

Bob

**CEE DOG** · 09-08-2011, 09:35 PM

Bob, as far as I know the nano coatings don't recomend polishing before applying another coat. I've only used OC and CQ. OC says you must polish / rough the surface in order to apply a second coat while CQ recomends a second coat as part of the standard application and no polishing is needed to apply the second coat.

**FUNX650** · 09-08-2011, 10:36 PM

Originally Posted by CEE DOG

Bob, as far as I know the nano coatings don't recomend polishing before applying another coat. I've only used OC and CQ. OC says you must polish / rough the surface in order to apply a second coat while CQ recomends a second coat as part of the standard application and no polishing is needed to apply the second coat.

Corey....Thanks for the: to polishing/not to polish tips.

Also....I was under the impression that Opti-Coatings were made of pre-polymer resins that cross-linked...not a nano-coating. That impression could be wrong, though.

Don't really yet know about CQuartz being a nano-coating or not.

In fact, at this time I don't know of any car care products that employ "bottom-up" nano-technology (less than 100nm). But, the other school of thought..."top-down" nano-technology might apply.

It's a dilemma, I tell ya!

Bob