Anything better than IPA for wipedowns?

[KneeDragr]

This is what I use!

Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner, prewax paint cleaner, paint prep cleaner

Ive been using that as well, but not for wipedowns after polishing.

Ive been using it per their instructions following a wash when Im going to apply a new product. I apply it to a wet car, rub it in with their sponges and then rinse off.

But I noticed in their literature than you can also just wipe it off with a microfiber. I will try that next time I polish as well since IPA seems to cloud the paint for some reason, maybe its smearing stuff around I dunno.

[Mike Phillips]

According to this thread started by Mike Phillips, using IPA undiluted is probably not the best thing for your paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...n-results.html

The history behind the above article is that on all the detailing discussion forums I read there's always someone recommending to use IPA to chemically strip the paint for a number of different reasons but there wasn't any further information ever included, just...

Use IPA to to wipe the paint down...


So to help people make an informed decision as to whether or not to chemically strip their paint and if they decide to to give them some guidelines, I did some research and then did my best to put together an article on the topic.

In that article there's a couple of warnings about the chemical stripping process and here's one of them...

Most recommendations I’ve read are:

Dilute IPA by 50% with water or 1:1

• Diluting 91% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 45% dilution of IPA to water solution.

• Diluting 70% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 35% dilution of IPA to water solution.

• Diluting 50% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 25% dilution of IPA to water solution.

After talking to my chemist friends, they all felt that these dilution levels were overkill and too strong for removing residues after compounding and/or polishing paint. Most quality name brand compounds and polishes are water soluble and don't need a strong solution of Isopropyl Alcohol to dissolve, emulsify and loosen any leftover residues on the surface.

Their recommendation was for approximately a 10% dilution of IPA to water solution. The reason for this recommendation besides their chemistry background, is that a strong solution of IPA can stain and even soften some clear coat paints.

High Solids Clear Coats paints are "Alcohol Friendly", meaning products like Isopropyl Alcohol, can and will penetrated into, soften, wrinkle and/or stain the paint. To avoid any of these problems, a 10% dilution of IPA to water solution is recommended and adequate to remove any compounding and polishing residues without risking any danger to your car's paint or your customer's car's paint.


Another colleague in the industry coined the term Hot to describe strong solutions of Isopropyl Alcohol used to chemically strip paint.

Hot = How fast a liquid will bite into the paint, the strength of the dilution and the flash time for the liquid to evaporate off the finish.

Full strength IPA is a HOT chemical stripper, the stronger the ratio, the hotter it is.


My colleague agrees with my chemist friends that 50%, 70% and 91% dilution levels are all too strong to safely use to chemically strip paint. This person's recommendation was to stay at or below 25% dilution of IPA to water solution.

You can use IPA however you like but maybe take a moment to read through the article an see what your other options are as it relates to dilution levels and other products.


How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results

[PAR Detailing]

I use Megs Glass Cleaner Concentrate. I have found it cleans the paint well, isnt grabby, and is very easy to use. Plus its cheap!

[feds27]

How about Menzerna Top Inspection? Wait, it's 4x the price of the Griots. (16oz vs 35oz, and the price per bottle is more for Menzerna too)

Menzerna Top Inspection, detail spray

Edit: sorry, I just realized post #4 of this thread already mentioned Top Inspection.

[jbgrant]

I'm a fan of using ethanol as I have it readily available. It has a lower boiling point than isopropyl so it evaporates even faster. Cleans identically and is about half as toxic too. I mix distilled water with 200 proof (non denatured) ethyl alcohol to make a 15% solution. It rarely takes more than one wipe to clear away Megs compounds & polishes to bare paint.

I prefer the smell as well; never cared for isopropyl, ethyl conjures good memories.

Depending on what is added to denatured ethanol, it would work fine too. I have read that sometimes toluene is added, which would not be particularly good for the user or paint.

[BobbyG]

I have used mineral spirits as well. I also use prep sol and it is cheap to use.

Great stuff to use and boy does it work well!!

[FUNX650]

I'm a fan of using ethanol as I have it readily available. It has a lower boiling point than isopropyl so it evaporates even faster. Cleans identically and is about half as toxic too. I mix distilled water with 200 proof (non denatured) ethyl alcohol to make a 15% solution. It rarely takes more than one wipe to clear away Megs compounds & polishes to bare paint.

I prefer the smell as well; never cared for isopropyl, ethyl conjures good memories.

Depending on what is added to denatured ethanol, it would work fine too. I have read that sometimes toluene is added, which would not be particularly good for the user or paint.

You either work in a lab, or have access to one, to have 200 proof ethanol (laboratory grade) readily available to you. If not, and you obtain it elsewhere, then the taxes levied upon ethanol (ethyl alcohol, grain alcohol, spirits) must not be applicable where you live. Lab quality ethanol...That's expensive stuff!!! As far as I know, only denatured ethanol (that is...it's intentionally made to be unfit for consumption), isn't levied this A.T.F.'s Revenuers' Tax.

I'm glad your usage of ethanol conjures up good memories for you. I have little recollection of all my doings during my ethanol imbibing era.

Bob

[05RLS2]

I have used mineral spirits as well. I also use prep sol and it is cheap to use.

I have some prep sol and consideridered it for a few seconds once, but felt kind of leary about using it and passed on it.

I may just give the Griots a try just for the fact that it should be safer. If it doesn;t work, abck to IPA I guess. It's not like it'd be the first product I tried and didn't find it worked as advertised

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Griots pre wax cleaner.