So help me out here. If I use 3m perfect it rubbing compound?

**ShineTimeDetail** · 10-22-2010, 11:36 AM

So help me out here. If I use 3m perfect it rubbing compound, chem guys mirror finish glaze and the use a sealant will the swirls fromt the compound still be there? I'd use orange pads for 3m, green pads on glaze and blue pads on the sealant. This will all be done one my cyclo.

**zliegen** · 10-22-2010, 11:52 AM

Originally Posted by tomrzk

So help me out here. If I use 3m perfect it rubbing compound, chem guys mirror finish glaze and the use a sealant will the swirls fromt the compound still be there? I'd use orange pads for 3m, green pads on glaze and blue pads on the sealant. This will all be done one my cyclo.

It depends on how hard the clear coat is but I wouldn't go to glaze after compounding. Rubbing compound is pretty heavy duty, you should probably use a finishing polish in between compounding and sealing. Glazing is kind of an optional step, I only use glazes to cover very light swirls in my own daily driver as I don't want to keep buffing away clear coat when it isn't necessary. A daily driver is never going to stay completely perfect.

Mike Phillips · 10-22-2010, 01:46 PM

Originally Posted by tomrzk

So help me out here. If I use 3m perfect it rubbing compound, chem guys mirror finish glaze and the use a sealant will the swirls fromt the compound still be there? I'd use orange pads for 3m, green pads on glaze and blue pads on the sealant. This will all be done one my cyclo.

I'm not familiar with how aggressive or non-aggressive the Chemical Guys Mirror Finish Glaze is but like Dave said, you need to use something strong enough to remove any compounding swirls or haze left by the 3M Compound.

The most important thing you can do is a Test Spot with the combination of pads, products and tools in the order you would use them to just one small section and make sure you're getting the results you want before going over the entire car.

You're post would have been better if you would have started your own "Dedicated Thread" instead of tagging on to this thread...

Hang tight while I make that happen...

Mike Phillips · 10-22-2010, 01:49 PM

Ta Da...

You're own thread...

**ShineTimeDetail** · 10-22-2010, 01:59 PM

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

Ta Da...

You're own thread...

LOL I looked at the new topics and I was confused!

And I just made another similar thread 10 sec before I saw this lol

**RaskyR1** · 10-22-2010, 02:24 PM

Which 3M Perfect-it compound are you using....they have several and it will make a difference.

**ShineTimeDetail** · 10-22-2010, 02:42 PM

I'm thinking '1' it doesn't really say. Up to 1200 grit sand paper.

**RaskyR1** · 10-22-2010, 03:01 PM

Originally Posted by tomrzk

I'm thinking '1' it doesn't really say. Up to 1200 grit sand paper.

There should be a part number on the bottle...

**ShineTimeDetail** · 10-22-2010, 03:15 PM

that's it.

**RaskyR1** · 10-22-2010, 03:20 PM

Originally Posted by tomrzk

I'm thinking '1' it doesn't really say. Up to 1200 grit sand paper.

If you are using the Perfect-it 3000 compound like the pic above, then it's a part of 3M's 3-step polishing system.

06085 Rubbing Compound (usually used with a wool or foam compounding pad and rotary)
06064 Swirl Mark Remover (Used with a black 3M foam pad and rotary)
06068 Ultrafine Machine Polish (used with a blue 3M foam pad and a rotary)

So basically if you are staring out with the rubbing compound you would want to use the proceeding two steps, or find a similar polish to fill the gap. IME, 3M compound cuts fast but they marr the finish more than what you would see with M105. The also work much better with a rotary.

At the end of the day, if you start with that compound you would most likely need 2 more refining steps before you would want to wax/seal the paint

Hope this helps,
Rasky