Hello all, 1st post. Question, I am concerned with...

**Drew888** · 09-22-2006, 11:11 AM

Hello again,

After reading and rereading detailing guides I believe I'm ready to make up a shopping list. Suggestions here are welcome.

I own a Subaru WRX that is now 5yrs old (black) and it shows it's age. I thought I was doing all I can and now realize I can do better and I'm excited to get going.

As it is now I have always washed my cars myself. I have always used the 2 bucket rinse wash thing, use a genuine sheepskin mitt, microfiber drying towel, followed by a polish and wax by hand. This is a typical every two week affair (minus the wax, that's more like every month or so).
I have always used mediocre products, Meguires gold class wash, their polish (red bottle), and NXT wax, and after finding this (and other) sites I feel like an upgrade

Beyond this my real question is about waxing around trim. Do you use painters tape to mask it off or do you carry a microfiber towel as you apply wax to wipe these areas off (I do this but although it comes off it also still affects the plastic), is there another way to avoid these areas?

I am really concered with this as we just bought a new Land Rover LR3 and there are plastic bits galore. I really want to protect it from day one and want to get a paint sealant on and possibly UV protection on all trim (especially the fender flares).

Thanks for any assistance!

Drew

**FloridaNative** · 09-22-2006, 11:37 AM

It's always a good practice to tape up the trim especially if you're only going to be doing it once a month. It's not alot of extra effort for the peace of mind it will give you. Just my 2 cents.

Welcome to the forums. Will you be getting a PC for your black Subaru??

**ZaneO** · 09-22-2006, 12:32 PM

IMO, quality waxes/sealants shouldn't stain trim. If you're concerned or don't know for sure, take a few minutes to tape the trim with blue painter's tape. It also helps to dress the trim first.

**FloridaNative** · 09-22-2006, 12:36 PM

I can tell you that Natty's, Souveran, Max Wax & Signature Series II do not stain the trim if that helps.

**Drew888** · 09-22-2006, 12:58 PM

PC? Porter Cable? Thinking about it. Just a bit afraid to experiment.

I used a clar bar once (yes with lube) and the first application ...I was amazed. Several months later I kneeded (SP?) the dirty areas inward to expose what I thought was fresh clay and tried it again (sprayed the clay lube more than before being concerned with the traped dirt) but this time I put in small scratches.

I've been more nervous since.

The Suby needs it, I saw the vid of it in use and was blown away by just how well the swirl marks came out. So I know I'll have to give it a try.

Regarding the wax on trim, the NXT I use as well as the polish doesn't turn the plastic white but darkens it similar to Vinylex. I just felt like it should be removed before trying to apply a vinyl protectant.

Dressing the trim first sounds logical...

**FloridaNative** · 09-22-2006, 01:13 PM

Originally Posted by Drew888

PC? Porter Cable? Thinking about it. Just a bit afraid to experiment.

I used a clar bar once (yes with lube) and the first application ...I was amazed. Several months later I kneeded (SP?) the dirty areas inward to expose what I thought was fresh clay and tried it again (sprayed the clay lube more than before being concerned with the traped dirt) but this time I put in small scratches.

I've been more nervous since.

The Suby needs it, I saw the vid of it in use and was blown away by just how well the swirl marks came out. So I know I'll have to give it a try.

Regarding the wax on trim, the NXT I use as well as the polish doesn't turn the plastic white but darkens it similar to Vinylex. I just felt like it should be removed before trying to apply a vinyl protectant.

Dressing the trim first sounds logical...

Dressing the trim will help and if you still get staining peanut oil can remove it as well.

Yeah, with the clay at a certain point you've just got to throw it out. You can only knead it so much until all the clean areas are used up, then you're just rubbing dirt on your paint. One thing you can do is when you get a new clay bar, cut it in half, and that way if you drop it or use it up too fast, you always have another clean one ready to use.

I think the PC (porter cable) would really work wonders on your Subaru. Black is difficult because it shows every defect and with swirls you can only hide them temporarily or remove them with a buffer. The PC really is an amazing tool for the enthusiast detailer. It let's you take your paint to new heights without having to sacrifice safety. It's definitely a worthy investment.

**Drew888** · 09-22-2006, 03:20 PM

Im very interested in taking advantage of the current discount.

I like some of the more complete kits but would like to save a buck and piece together only what I'll need.

Suggestions? Sorry, I should (and will) do a search. Just eager to spend

and later to reap the reward of the labor I'll put into fixing my paint.

I saw your post to someone else suggesting the XMT and you pointed to a kit specific to hand waxing ( I also coun't find the XMT #2 you refered to). So, something similar, just the bare necessities and geared toward the PC.
Wait... just as I was about to send this message I found it on Pinnacles site. I have more reading to do.

**FloridaNative** · 09-22-2006, 03:42 PM

Do you have the PC already or will you be needing a whole PC kit?

**Drew888** · 09-22-2006, 03:48 PM

I don't have one...yet.

Goal is to get my paint back to like new as I can hope to but also saving some $.

First thought was to try;

the Pinnacle XMT Intermediate Swirl Remover Intro Kit along with the Pinnacle Poly Clay bundle and Poorboy's Natty Blue.

Now I'm having difficulty converting this for use with the PC.