Easy buffing of sealant residue?

[lgtspecb]

I spent 8 hours today on the car doing a wash (onr), clay (megs), polish (optimum, white lc smart pad), ipa, klasse aio (gray lc smart pad), klasse sg (red lc smart pad), and I would imagine about half the time was spent buffing the aio and glaze.

The polishing took a while as expected and ipa was a real help at removing the residue. This was my first time to use the klasse aio and sg, at first I thought the aio was a godsend, until i finished the right side of the car and found left over residue on the panels i just did. The same thing happened with the glaze. I cleaned then up with qd, but i swear 3 or 4 hours of my work was spent buffing stuff off whether it be a bonnet, ipa, qd, or clean mf.

Correct me if im wrong, but i dont think you would want to do an ipa wipedown after the aio or sg, so is there a simple way to quickly and completely remove the residue?

I want to go add some wax to it tomorrow, but im not looking forward to spending another couple hours.

[CharlesW]

Difficulty in removing Klasse AIO surprises me.
If applied as per the instructions, damp pad, wipe on, wipe off, it has always been one of the easiest products to apply and remove that I have used.
I have never let it dry before removing, but I have read that letting it dry can cause it to be difficult to remove.

Klasse SG is a different story as to removal. I heard so many tales of problems removing it that I never tried it. It seems to need a special touch for proper use.

[lgtspecb]

I applied aio by hand to the hood, then grabbed a clean pad, did the hood again, and the rest of the car one panel at a time. I applied a very thin coat of aio to a panel with the pc on 4, then buffed with a bonnet on a finishing pad at speed 3, and a final wipe down with a cobra deluxe jr. It seemed to be coming off very easy, but when i checked my work after finishing that side i started to see steaking on the previous panels.

I was using very little product but the longer i ran the pc the thicker it got and the more it hazed up. By hand on the hood it disappeared as it should. I'm wondering if the temperature had anything to do with it, it was low to mid 30's in the garage and the cars surface was very cold.

With the glaze I did the entire car as per the instructions, when i went back to buff it off, it was completley translucent. By this time my back was sore from bending over polishing and buffing all day and it was getting dark and cold so i began rushing. The product seemed to be coming off easy. After I buffed the whole car with a clean cobra deluxe I stopped to have a smoke and I noticed the whole car was smeared. So I grabbed a new towel and a bottle of quick detailer and spent another hour making sure it was all completely off. To be honest, I don't think the glaze did much and I dont think it was worth the trouble, but I'll check the results once it's had some cure time before I wax.

Just wondering if ipa after sealant is ok or if there is some easy way im missing. On a silver car in poor lighting its very difficult to make sure its all off, so i end up way over buffing.

[charliehaley]

Klasse is a very resilient sealant so i doubt you did too much damage but in the future only use IPA after polishing as it does remove wax and had the potential to shorten the life span of a sealant.

[ScottB]

A IPA wipedown between products is a no-no, they work together to really amp up the durability.

AIO should not have been hard to remove (red canister). It should be shaken very very well and forgiving even if to much is put on. You dont immediately wipe off but let set. It can then be buffed with MF towel.

SG (silver canister) is quite finicky and I have found the proven winner and offered it here often. Transfer some to a small travel size spray bottle (fine mist). You spritz each panel and immediately buff in, and then buff off. If you get a stubborn area the respritz immediately and rebuff it comes right off and removes the stubborn stuff. Allow to cure 8-24 hours before any water touches it. Then you can add another layer, top with nuba, or detailing spray with additional gloss.

[CharlesW]

AIO should not have been hard to remove (red canister). It should be shaken very very well and forgiving even if to much is put on. You dont immediately wipe off but let set. It can then be buffed with MF towel.

As long as that procedure works for you, great.
Do you dampen the applicator as recommended?
I have only used it according to the instructions whether by hand or a PC. Applied with a damp applicator and removed after each panel. It's kind of a nuisance having to lay the PC down to remove the KAIO after each panel so I usually just apply it by hand. If it works OK to let it dry, then I could do a much larger area before wiping it off.
I think I once read that letting it dry could make it difficult to remove, but I have never tried it.

My bottle of Klasse AIO says:
"Apply small amount of KLASSE on clean and dry surface with DAMP cotton cloth. Use even firm pressure. Wipe off. No drying time necessary." (The caps are Klasse's, the blue is mine. )

The Auto Geek store also seems to say that letting it set isn't necessary.
From the Klasse AIO ad copy:
"Klasse All IN ONE is very easy to apply. Simply wipe on and wipe off, car care doesn’t get any easier. Use a Cobra Microfiber Detailing Cloth to make the job even easier. One folded towel is also perfect for applying a thin film of Klasse All-In-One. Use a second towel to wipe area and remove residue. There is no need to wait for the polish to dry or haze. We recommend using this polish in sections on your vehicle or boat, applying and wiping off as you make your way around all surface areas. Turning and refolding the applicator towel frequently will ensure maximum results."

[lgtspecb]

Thanks killer. I figured ipa was a no-no since it would remove the product i just put on. I'm not sure why i had so much trouble then with the aio. I used very little product and the pad wasn't caked at all when i finished. I did it as per the ag instructions included with the kit and wiped off immediately.

I'll keep the sg trick in mind for next time. I didn't mind using qd over the aio so much since i was going to to use the sg afterwards, but i didnt like using 1/4 bottle of qd and heavy buffing to remove the glaze as it probably negated the whole purpose of applying it.

Oh well, the car looks good. Now its time to go add some pinnacle ss and go take some detail pics in the snow.

[mulder]

I have used this combination of Klasse AIO & Klasse SG on a few occassions and I have personally found, that applying a thin layer of AIO, using a damp microfibre applicator pad, to the entire car and leaving it there; then applying SG directly on to it, again applying to the entire car and leaving for a couple of hours, minimum works well.

The car was prepped 4 weeks ago and on this occassion, H20 Polycharger was added to the mix.

Started the car on the Saturday








On the Sunday, I was able to get a second coat of Polycharged SG onto the car







As always, you clean your car and on the Monday it rained






Since then, I haven't had the chance to wash the car, it is absolutley filthy but it does still bead nicely, when it rains and it has rained a lot, since then

[lgtspecb]

Come to think of it, I have heard before of applying the glaze directly to the aio. I might give it a try later. I still have to do my other car. At least the wax went on easy and came off easy.

Your car looks great btw, I have never tried poly charger (so expensive) but it was all the rage a year ago.

[Jimmie]

In areas where the Klasse SG has dried like concrete, I'll shoot a mist clould of H2O in the air and pass a MF on my hand through it. It comes right off with a dampened MF.
I don't know what that does to the durability of what's left on the paint. It's just way too tough to use IMO.