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  1. #11
    Super Member BudgetPlan1's Avatar
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    Quote Originally Posted by Danube View Post
    I take - it the difference between a top shelf wax and ceramic coating is mostly in durability of the protection, not the way it looks (as if something can look better than 2 layers of 845 .. in my view at least .. )
    Coatings = long-term good looks, ease of maintenance, increased protection from environmental & chemical contamination/incidents.

    Useful attributes when you’re a lazy guy w a black car that’s a PITA to wash Another coating high spot question


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  3. #12
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    Quote Originally Posted by Danube View Post
    I take - it the difference between a top shelf wax and ceramic coating is mostly in durability of the protection, not the way it looks (as if something can look better than 2 layers of 845 .. in my view at least .. )
    Coating looks way different thatn a wax.

    One of my forman at work has asked me mulitple times about how i keep the buick looking so good all the time even when its dirty. He asks if i wash it every day haha. I say nope just once a week. He says hes never seen a black car with paint that good, thats not all swirled out. Mind you this guy used to paint cars when he was younger.

    He says "the paint looks so wet, and reflective, is that cuz of that ceramic coating stuff you use?"

    I just laugh and say yes, that is part of it.

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  4. #13
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    So I actually fixed part of it I think.

    I used some Griots Perfecting Cream on a light polishing pad and ran over one of the problem areas at low speed.

    Then I cleaned it up with some prep and reapplied coating. I buffed it off pretty much right when I saw the rainbow effect… so didn’t let it stay on there long at all.

    It actually looks better than the adjacent area, which basically means I didn’t do a great job on the bumper. I may do something similar for the rest of the bumper.

    Either way, glad I was able to improve the situation.

    Out of curiosity, for those who have had to completely remove a coating like PROFI, how much polishing is required? I suspect I did not remove all of the coating. Just curious how much work it would be to remove completely.


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  5. #14
    Super Member Eric7810's Avatar
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    I had to repair spots on a customers roof once and I had to use a wool pad on a flex 3401 to get through it.


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  6. #15
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric7810 View Post
    I had to repair spots on a customers roof once and I had to use a wool pad on a flex 3401 to get through it.


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    So based on that, I probably just smoothed it out huh? I guess we’ll find out eventually. Haha.


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  7. #16
    Super Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    Depends on the coating. I removed a CanCoat Evo high spot yesterday with Duragloss 501 and then reapplied.

    I had a couple of high spots of GTeq + EXO that required 3" pad and rotary to remove. Then reapplied just those spots.

    I've never repolished an entire panel to get a high spot or 2.

    And I've learned how important substantial lighting serves during application.

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  9. #17
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul A. View Post
    Depends on the coating. I removed a CanCoat Evo high spot yesterday with Duragloss 501 and then reapplied.

    I had a couple of high spots of GTeq + EXO that required 3" pad and rotary to remove. Then reapplied just those spots.

    I've never repolished an entire panel to get a high spot or 2.

    And I've learned how important substantial lighting serves during application.
    Do you have a lighting rec? Like a scangrip or something? I have fluorescent lighting plus a big LED bar but I think my iphone flashlight is the best… either that or catch some natural light through my garage door.


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  10. #18
    Super Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    I have a DIY LED light bar i made from a post on here some years ago. I love it when correcting and especially for applying coatings. And it was fairly inexpensive.

    For finding high spots a day or two later i use my Flex swirl finder but, yes, sometimes my phone flashlight. My technique is to turn off all the lights in my garage and walk around the vehicle with only my handheld light.

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  12. #19
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul A. View Post
    My technique is to turn off all the lights in my garage and walk around the vehicle with only my handheld light.
    I do this too. My wife thinks I'm crazy. My garage has translucent window cutouts, so my neighbors probably think the same. Haha.

  13. #20
    Super Member Desertnate's Avatar
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    Re: Another coating high spot question

    My lighting technique, whether I'm hunting high spots or simply doing an application, is do make it as diffused and indirect as possible.

    The roof in my garage is actually painted, but I've been successfull with this approach in a garage with just bare sheetrock too. The LED work light stand I use has the ability to rotate the lights, so I will point both of them at the ceiling and then work by the light reflected down on to the car. This makes rainbow flashing and high spots really pop and easy to see.

    I fell into this technique when trying to improve my working conditions. One thing I had found in the past, was when looking at paint in my normal overhead lighting, or even outdoors on a bright sunny day, I wouldn't see any high spots. However, on a cloudy/overcast day, dawn/dusk, or in the indirect lighting of a parking lot I'd find them all over the place. This drove me to try and duplicate those lighting conditions. Giving the light a high level of diffusion by reflecting it off walls or the ceiling seemed to do the trick.
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