First go - ceramic coating, experienced detailer

[ddsski]

Surprised no one made this suggestion to Danube. You and I both come from a similar detailing background. Collinite 845 fans. The art of that material was LESS is MORE!!!
I made note in another thread my slow climb into the SiO2 world.
1. Blackfire SiO2
2. Griots 3 in 1.
3. now Gyeon Can Coat Evo. BTW IT LASTS A YEAR EASY UNLESS YOU LIVE IN HELL!! Just like our 845 lasted a LONG time.

If I were you, I'd save the Mohs for now. Buy a small bottle of Can Coat Evo and use it for practice. In 845/wax world , it was all about the application....then just wipe off.
In siO2 world, you are 100% correct that it is all about the timing of the removal! Even with can Coat, I had a few areas to correct my first time. We are both VERY used to applying a side of a car, etc instead of panel by panel. The Mohs won't go bad, but you gotta walk before you run.................

BTW, also I was a devote fan of Griots Best in Show for years but its not ceramic, so my limited understanding is that its actually not as good as the finish you a[pplied. I have a bottle of gyeon Ceramic detailer now. EASY TO USE as long as you use it SPARINGLY!!!

Good luck. Go slow to adapt to the tech. JIMHO.

[Danube]

Surprised no one made this suggestion to Danube. You and I both come from a similar detailing background. Collinite 845 fans. The art of that material was LESS is MORE!!!
I made note in another thread my slow climb into the SiO2 world.
1. Blackfire SiO2
2. Griots 3 in 1.
3. now Gyeon Can Coat Evo. BTW IT LASTS A YEAR EASY UNLESS YOU LIVE IN HELL!! Just like our 845 lasted a LONG time.

If I were you, I'd save the Mohs for now. Buy a small bottle of Can Coat Evo and use it for practice. In 845/wax world , it was all about the application....then just wipe off.
In siO2 world, you are 100% correct that it is all about the timing of the removal! Even with can Coat, I had a few areas to correct my first time. We are both VERY used to applying a side of a car, etc instead of panel by panel. The Mohs won't go bad, but you gotta walk before you run.................

BTW, also I was a devote fan of Griots Best in Show for years but its not ceramic, so my limited understanding is that its actually not as good as the finish you a[pplied. I have a bottle of gyeon Ceramic detailer now. EASY TO USE as long as you use it SPARINGLY!!!

Good luck. Go slow to adapt to the tech. JIMHO.

Thank you for the heads up, great ideas right there.

But I'm itching to give it a go, I know you understand.

[Danube]

The OP here, finally the D day came yesterday - my 1st ceramic coating installation after 10+yrs of using wax only.

No high spots at all - the temperature in Australia where I live was about +16C, so after application I immediately started the removal (yes, the sweating just started prior).

Interestingly I only used about 22ml of the Gyeon Mohs Evo .. something was telling me that less is more.

After inspection I can confirm every inch was covered, no high spots, no omissions.

Gyeon Prep was a bit of disappointment, so I had to be extra cautious, as the paint correction was next to perfect.

I found that selection of MF rugs was very important. The fluffy ones should be avoided at all cost !

[Desertnate]

Interestingly I only used about 22ml of the Gyeon Mohs Evo .. something was telling me that less is more.

I've noticed the Gyeon coatings go on a little thicker than CarPro and you use a bit more product. From my two Gyeon applications, you used about what I have. On a similar car with CQUK, I use about 15ml. [/quote]

Gyeon Prep was a bit of disappointment, so I had to be extra cautious, as the paint correction was next to perfect.

What didn't you like? With any prep product you need to be very careful.

I found that selection of MF rugs was very important. The fluffy ones should be avoided at all cost !

For the coating removal? I've found the same thing. The lower the nap on the MF towels, the easier it is to remove/buff out the surfaces.

[Paul A.]

Nicely done, Danube!

Feel proud, my friend, and know you now have robust protection on that paint!

[Danube]

I've noticed the Gyeon coatings go on a little thicker than CarPro and you use a bit more product. From my two Gyeon applications, you used about what I have. On a similar car with CQUK, I use about 15ml.

Yes, I think that instructional videos in general show too much product being thrown on the applicator, probably to show the sweating effect .. The Kohs Evo feels like a fairly oily liquid that needs to be spreaded evenly .. in a way it reminds me of my good old 845 on a yellow Megs applicator.



What didn't you like? With any prep product you need to be very careful.
The residue and the way it wouldn't wipe off the way I'd expect. Some streaking as well. The surface was squeaky clean, yes, but it needed a lot of work to get there.



For the coating removal? I've found the same thing. The lower the nap on the MF towels, the easier it is to remove/buff out the surfaces.[/QUOTE]
100%

[Danube]

Nicely done, Danube!

Feel proud, my friend, and know you now have robust protection on that paint!

Thank you.

I feel that good preparation is the key, the coating itself is easy, at least in my case.

I will now concentrate on another car from our family and repeat the process.

[Danube]

First wash after the coating, hardly any water left on the panels, it just fly away ..





As for the maintenance, what product of the 2 would you suggest

[SNP209]

First wash after the coating, hardly any water left on the panels, it just fly away ..





As for the maintenance, what product of the 2 would you suggest

I would do a test spot with both and go from there. Maybe try a 50/50 mix and see how that goes?

[DFB]

First wash after the coating, hardly any water left on the panels, it just fly away ..





As for the maintenance, what product of the 2 would you suggest

If it were me, I would use the Gyeon product, although I would love to hear how the BSD works on a ceramic coating.