Sanity check, advice, and product thougts for first detail of new car.

**04lss** · 01-01-2023, 11:08 PM

Hi all, thought id make a single thread ahead of my first detail on my 23 GLI.

Scope:
The paint has some swirls in it, so its getting paint corrected, and every surface on the exterior is getting some form of protectant. (glass, paint, trim, headlights, tires, wheels)

Wash/decon:, Im going to hit the car with a PH neutral car wash using a foam cannon followed by tow bucket. Im also going to clean the wheels and tires at this time using mothers brushes and my favored cleaners. Not sure if i am going to do iron decon on the paint. I am going to dry the car with my Griots PFM towel. Then, i am going to Clay bar the paint with my Griots synthetic clay and Meguiars last touch D155 diluted 1-1. I am going to dry it using some good quality towels.

Correction:
I have a number of liquids and pads on hand. Im going to mention what i have in case what ive chosen doesnt make sense. (Meguiars microfiber cutting, grots microfiber, rupes blue microfiber( only in 3 inch) Griots orange pads (in 3 and 6) Rupes yellow (in 3 and 6) and Griots finishing in 6.) (Liquids: Griots compound, Meguiars m105, m205, Adams polish, Rupes blue coarse compound, car pro essence, sonax perfect finish.) I also have a griots 6 inch polisher and the g8 mini.

The paint is only swirled in certain areas and the car is brand new, so i am not expecting to have to get too aggressive. The plan is to start on the noticeably swirled area (the area right below the windows) with my 3 inch, car pro essence on a yellow rupes pad and see if that removes it. I know essence has some fillers, so I will hit the panel with Gyeon Prep just to make sure. I dont expect this to be enough, and if not, i am going to move to Sonax perfect finish on a rupes yellow. This is the combination i expect to use over most of the car. If for some reason this doesnt work, ill move to a Griots orange pad. If that doesnt work, Ill break out the rupes blue compound on an orange pad. and two step with sonax on a yellow.
Trying to start at the least aggressive path possible. If the sonax on the yellow rupes works, i dont expect to need a second step polish. Ive heard the finish is fantastic.

Glass:
The glass already has some grime and road film on it. Last night in the rain was very annoying. I have stoners glass stripper, griots fine glass polish, and griots glass clay. I plan to clay the glass, hit it with the glass stripper, and see how it looks. (can I use the stripper on a DA?) if needed, ill grab one of my older yellow pads and use the griots glass polish. Ill clean it up with glass cleaner, then hit it with Gyeon Prep before i apply a protectant.

Here is where I am coming off the rails a bit and really want advice. That said, if you see something above that doesn't make sense,please tell me.

Protection:

Glass:
I have WAY too many glass protection products.
I have Griots glass sealant, Adams Glass sealant, Rainx, Wolfgang class cleaner with water repellent, 303 Graphene nano, A small amount of adams graphene spray advanced, Griots Ceramic glass cleaner, and though its not glass specific, Getchic c1 and exo.
I am not sure where i am going here. I think im rulling out any of the rainx style sealants (adams, griots, rainx) But im not sure about the rest. Initial thought is to use the Griots ceramic on the windows, and the adams advanced on the sunroof and windshield.

Paint:
In a similar issue as above I have many options. Griots 3 in 1 ceramic, Gtechnic c1, exo, 303 graphene, griots sealant.
Right now, the plan is to use the 303, i have a 24 oz bottle. I bought the gtechnic for another car, and after helping a pro apply CSL to a miata over the weekend, im not sure I can manage the Gtechnic in the time i have, adding to the trouble there I dont have a garage to park in. The plan is 3 coats of 303 on the paint, trim, headlights wheels etc. Basically anything that isnt glass or rubber. I know there are better choices out there for the wheels, but i dont have them, and im not trying to spend anymore for this particular detail.

For the tires I am using my favored water based tire shine. it usually holds up long enough for me to get 2 washes in.

**Flash Gordon** · 01-01-2023, 11:22 PM

Originally Posted by 04lss

Hi all, thought id make a single thread ahead of my first detail on my 23 GLI.

Wash/decon:, Im going to hit the car with a PH neutral car wash using a foam cannon followed by tow bucket. Im also going to clean the wheels and tires at this time using mothers brushes and my favored cleaners. Not sure if i am going to do iron decon on the paint. I am going to dry the car with my Griots PFM towel. Then, i am going to Clay bar the paint with my Griots synthetic clay and Meguiars last touch D155 diluted 1-1. I am going to dry it using some good quality towels.

Here is where I am coming off the rails a bit and really want advice. That said, if you see something above that doesn't make sense,please tell me.

Your already off the rails (imo)

If it were me I would definitely iron decon.

Unless your trying to impress the neighbors I would skip the foam cannon.

Instead of drying then claying, clay as you wash. You won't be needing that solution

**briarpatch** · 01-02-2023, 12:22 PM

Prior to correction, and especially on a new car, do the iron decon. See if a light polish will give you the correction results you want. Griots 3 in 1 is an excellent choice for an LSP....easy to use and cost effective.....just do not apply in full sun or to a hot panel.

**Flash Gordon** · 01-02-2023, 06:02 PM

Originally Posted by briarpatch

Prior to correction, and especially on a new car, do the iron decon. See if a light polish will give you the correction results you want. Griots 3 in 1 is an excellent choice for an LSP....easy to use and cost effective.....just do not apply in full sun or to a hot panel.

Great suggestions. Where did our boy go?