What did I do wrong Meguiar’s hybrid ceramic liquid wax?

[Loach]

My experience with Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax, is this did have a pretty significant drop off in hydrophobic performance after a few weeks. Its immediate short term water behavior is fantastic, but if you want to keep up on this after your washes, you're going to have to pair up the Hybrid Ceramic Detailer as your drying aid or maintenance topper. Gold Class soap is probably not helping it, but even if you switch up your soap I think you're likely to get similar results.

The wax can last, I'm at 4 months without toppers and although the water behavior is quite a bit slower, it's still not matching the hydrophilic areas on the roof where I have no protection on the test car. It's held up but it's struggling without any maintenance.

[TrustJesus]

4 months ? No kidding, did you put two layers on first coating?

That’s impressive


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[Loach]

Just one coat, but I prepped the paint with Meguiar's M110, M210, followed up with a panel wipe before applying the wax. Another thing to note, the waxes are probably lasting longer than you would think, even though the water behavior has been diminished, it doesn't necessarily mean the wax layer is completely toast.

For me, if I was using Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax on my paint as my main protectant, I'd most likely reapply it every 2 months, and use Hybrid Ceramic Detailer after every wash.

[TrustJesus]

This is good info thanks man

Like I said this is not a bash thread, I actually like the product and it looks good

I’ll try your steps man , thanks


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[acuRAS82]

It’s perfectly normal for many products to lose their top behavior early but continue protecting fur many months after. I see this with a lot of sealants. Maybe the products behavior is at 75-100% max for 2-4 weeks, then the product hangs in their in the 40-75% of max range for the next 3-4 months before a quick drop off from 40% down to whatever remaining longevity is left at the time I decide it’s gone too far (15-25%??).

[TrustJesus]

Thanks man for the info I didn’t know that


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[WillSports3]

+1 to what everyone else said. If using sealant, I would suggest paint prep spray like CarPro Eraser or something like that. Reason is, polymers need clean surface to crosslink with the clearcoat. Drying aid is not necessary as long as car is washed properly. I alternate between using it and not, I usually don't. Don't see a need to, and haven't really met a drying aid that I really like to be honest.

Hydrophobics is just surface tension, right after you apply a LSP it has a perfectly level surface. Of course the moment it encounters contaminants, it starts to get compromised so a lot of protection loses hydrophobics quickly. Definitely does not mean it's no longer on there. I judge by feel, not water beading. Bare clearcoat feels like one thing and usually very different from any sealants or waxes or coatings. If anything, it can feel a bit in the middle. Not grabby but not slick. Beading is not really a sign of protection per say, most of the time the beading in a product comes from a hydrophobic agent the manufacturer will put in.

[UncleDavy]

What was the actual drying aid that you were using? If you are more comfortable with using a drying aid, then Carpro ECH2O or Eraser would be better choices. Another endorsement for the Griots PFM drying towel. It is a superb product.

[TrustJesus]

@UncleDavy,
I rather not mention drying aide as it’s a violation, plus I bought BEFORE I signed up .

I like you all advice and looking back I was simply wasting time and product.

Thanks, I’ll look into carpro, never tried anything other the Mothers, Meguiar’s, Chemical Guys, honestly.


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[acuRAS82]

You can mention another product that was used, just don’t hype it, link it or promote it.