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Re: Time to buff/polish....
Can you feel the scratch with your fingernail?
"Dirt likes detergent so much better than the surface that it's attached to, it'll leave that surface to go hang out with the soap"... aim4squirrels
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Re: Time to buff/polish....
Originally Posted by dcjredline
Can you feel the scratch with your fingernail?
No I can not.
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Re: Time to buff/polish....
If your fingernail doesn't drop INTO the scratch that's a good sign.
Often times you can improve a scratch but not entirely remove a scratch.
Watch this video, it will show you exactly what to do.
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Re: Time to buff/polish....
More...
More....
Be sure to read these two articles and do at least one of the things I show...
How to Monitor Pad Rotation? Mark Your Buffing Pads
Use a combination of Sharpie Markers, both Black and Silver and also touch-up paint can be used.
Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation
And here's my quote on this topic....
If the pad is not rotating on a free spinning random orbital polisher - you are not doing anything -Mike Phillips
Ha ha.... there used to be a couple of guys that would try to argue that a pad does not need to rotate in order to remove swirls and scratches, that oscillation was enough - but they've disappeared.
In reality, for any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher, if the pad is NOT rotating, then the oscillation isn't full or true oscillation but close to the pad simply vibrating against the paint. And while some people may try to argue that this vibration of a pad against the paint can and will ABRADE the paint - the abrading will be so minute that it will take you a million years to buff out one 16" by 16" area.
So from a practical point of view, and by this I mean, at some point I need to buff out the car, finish it, get my money, go home, take a shower, eat dinner and go to bed, from this practical point of view, having a pad ONLY oscillate or vibrate against paint with swirls, scratches, water spots and/or oxidation is a waste of time.
If you want to remove below surface paint defects in a sane manner and you're' going to use a free spinning random orbital polisher then the pad MUST rotate and oscillate. Anything else is just wasting time. And this is why I tell people to mark their backing plates or the sides of their buffing pads - so it's easy for your EYES to see what's happening at the surface level. Otherwise the action taking place at the pad-to-paint interface is just a blur.
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Time to buff/polish....
A fox body Mustang. Gotta give it some love.
More picture please!!!!
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Re: Time to buff/polish....
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Re: Time to buff/polish....
Originally Posted by Bdubbs
Thanks!
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That is awesome. I had an 89 LX 5.0 hatch. Please keep that ascetically stock as possible! Nothing worse than seeing the big gigantic fiberglass hoods and ground effects with big wings on the back.
My only recommendation is some mud flaps, those beefy tires will tear that undercarriage up... I know from experience.
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Re: Time to buff/polish....
Originally Posted by Bdubbs
This was my first time using a DA polisher. I have the porter cable.
I still have some small scratches, but it looks much better!
Looks great for your first time.
Heck - better than the work some with the title, "Pro Detailer" put out for sure.
Originally Posted by Bdubbs
I'm wondering if I should use a little more aggressive pad or not?
With the Total Swirl Remover, which is a "Medium Cut" polish, you could safely use a more aggressive pad to remove a little more of the defects. That's a very nice product, I just used it on the custom paint on a 1932 Ford Roadster.
Originally Posted by Bdubbs
I need to order up some black pads for laying down wax.
From the pictures of the pads in the plastic packaging, looks like 6.5" CCS pads? If so - those are freaking HUGE for that machine. Before you invest any more money into huge pads, get a 5" backing plate and switch over to 5.5" pads. Smaller diameter and thinner pads WILL ROTATE so much better than those monsters. Those huge thick pads are great to learn on but once you are comfortable with machine polishing, you'll appreciate the smaller, thinner pads as they will enable YOU to get more out of that machine.
Originally Posted by Bdubbs
After using the DA polisher, I really don't want to do anything by hand!
I need to remember where this thread is and the above comment for every time someone joins this forum and asks,
How do you remove swirls? And oh yeah, I'm working by hand.
Originally Posted by Bdubbs
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How do you like your Moto phone?
It is one of the FEW phones manufactured in the United States of America.
I was researching American-made phones over the weekend.
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