Help with Duragloss sealants: 111, 105, 501 w/601 - Differences?

[57Rambler]

•If you will follow Richy’s guidelines that’s
posted above to a tee, you’ll notice that
the first step is using the 501/601 combo.
-That combo will give you that ‘very light
polishing step’ I’m talking about. And you’ll
be glad you did!

Bob

That is confusing as Jerry told me that the only difference between #105 and #501 was the amount of "cleaning" ability and that neither had any abrasives.

And his recommendation for new(er) white paint was #105 + #601.

Even if Jerry is wrong and #501 had some abrasives, why would you mix the bonding agent with it if you are just using the #501 to "polish" the surface and then are going back with #105 + #601 or #111 + #601 ? The #105 or #111 is what you want to make sure "bonds" to the paint.

[57Rambler]

Now on the mix of the 501/601, that CANNOT be bottled and used as times goes on, right? I have to make and use what I make. No storing here, right?

Straight from Duragloss' product info page ...

Step Saver Tip - Blend 4 parts #105 to 1 part 601, Polish Bonding Agent for added durability and gloss. Accelerates the curing process for instant bonding. Apply within 2 hours after mixing for maximum results.

Some people have said the "mix" is viable for longer than that, but why take a chance. The manufacturer knows what is best/optimum.

[DMiglio]

Thanks Yeah I'll have to suck it up and do it. I was going to wait until the fall to do it because of the heat... I dont have a garage. Now on the mix of the 501/601, that CANNOT be bottled and used as times goes on, right? I have to make and use what I make. No storing here, right?

I echo Rambler, best to use based on the manufacturers directions/instructions. In saying that I have used the mix 4:1 and after doing my fathers car had about an ounce or so remaining. I used it some two months later and it had thickened up quite a bit in that time. Don’t remember what it was like to use at that time as I was just applying to a hood for fun.

[FUNX650]

That is confusing as Jerry told me that the only difference between #105 and #501 was the amount of "cleaning" ability and that neither had any abrasives.

And his recommendation for new(er) white paint was #105 + #601.

Even if Jerry is wrong and #501 had some abrasives, why would you mix the bonding agent with it if you are just using the #501 to "polish" the surface and then are going back with #105 + #601 or #111 + #601 ? The #105 or #111 is what you want to make sure "bonds" to the paint.

Once one gets to know Jerry and Richy’s
“history”...it’ll immediately become clear
that when it comes to all things Duragloss:
Richy is the auto detailing forums’ expert.

‘Nuff said, IMO.


Bob

[57Rambler]

Once one gets to know Jerry and Richy’s
“history”...it’ll immediately become clear
that when it comes to all things Duragloss:
Richy is the auto detailing forums’ expert.

‘Nuff said, IMO.


Bob

So Richy knows more about Duragloss products than one of the founding brothers/chemists ?

Not trying to be argumentative, I know Richy is one of Jerry's "beta testers", I just do not understand why Jerry would contradict. Afterall, he is the one who answers emails/contacts directed to Duragloss.

[MarkD51]

If it's any help, yes, I tried #501 with a D/A once to see what correction abilities it had? It had basically zero.
Others have hit the line-up spot on. Chemical cleaners only, no abrasives in any of them, with 501 having the most, then 105 with less, and last #111 with none, just a pure sealant product.

[MrOneEyedBoh]

This is what I was thinking/wondering and to me makes sense. What do you guys think....

Its a white truck, Im trying to get away from being so anal about swirls etc. The paint now days is THIN, so I dont really wanna correct the swirls etc if its not THAT bad. So with that being said, I was going to clay using Griots synthetic clay puck, maybe use a paint cleaner ( chemical based ) and then use this 601+111. Ok so here is where Im confused -

If 111 is pure sealant, then it should be the most stout, right? This then leads me into where 105 has me a bit confused.

If they're using a chemical cleaner in the sealant such as 105 , then there has to be some sacrifice in the longevity of that sealant no?

1) Because there has to be less sealant in the mix/bottle as the cleaner is taking up some space/volume in the mix ...
2) Wouldnt the cleaner hinder some of the life of the sealant since its well... cleaning the paint the same time as its trying to lay down protection?

Seems its smarter to hit the paint with something like PBs Professional Polish non-abrasive cleaner ( I have this already ) and then hit it again with the 111+601 as the SOLE sealant and no cleaners introduced at the protection step.. Would be great to save a step and use 105+601 though...

Make sense?

[DMiglio]

I wouldn’t over think this too much. Detailing has become so complicated over the years that it makes it hard to just go out in the garage and have fun. If you have the Duragloss products, I highly recommend doing a polishing step with the 105 and then applying the 111/601 combo. If you just have 111/601, then definitely use those after PB’s polish.

Either way it’s best to use a cleaner or polish before applying the sealant as this will maximize the results in how the car looks and how it’s protected!

[MarkD51]

I'm not going to say you're over-thinking things, thinking and being logically analytical is good.

All three are very good products, can say anything bad about them. I've used all three, but I never combined them with 601, never had such on hand to try.

One thing you could try, and there would certainly be no harm-foul, is try #111 first. (if you want to toss a few drops of 601 on a applicator pad too on a whim, go right ahead)

And sample the results on one panel. If you like the results, carry on, make yourself a adequate mix of 111-601 and go at it.

As I see it, just about every protectant product under the sun has some sort of carrier solvents in the formulation. Even with pure Sealants, Carnaubas, and Hybrids, there's going to be some degree of cleansing action occurring, cutting through some of the cruds that might be on the paint. Dirts, maybe not so much, but greasy smearing, oils, and maybe pollens-fallouts might vanish off the paint.

As for the differences in longevity-durability of 501-105-111, I think it comes down to cutting hairs as to the time differences as to how long each might last. Might it be a week? Or two?

If that's a highly important aspect and goal that you're trying to achieve, a long protective life without returning to a full blown detail then I might look to Collinite #476 as a more conventional product. Or as some others like, PNS.

I'd like adding....Not sure what, if any of these products you already have on hand? If some, or all, then experiment some.

No doubt about 501, it cleans very nicely. Not many other products that are sort of an AIO compare. And no, this isn't perhaps the equal of Blackfire AIO.

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Thanks guys as Always!