Pick my pads, PLEASE - White BMW - Sonax PF

[Belo]

I've had good luck with the white LC pads for polish and 1 AIOs. I recently picked up the green which are specifically designed for AIOs and found them to work as well. I use 3 per car (i know there's a debate here). I'd suggest at least one orange pad though as you may need a more aggressive pad for touch up.

When you get away from AIOs you'll start adding all sorts of colors haha.

[Mike Phillips]

Thanks for chiming in Mike. I bought a 3" and 5" backing plate, I'll go ahead and buy the RUPES yellow pads in 6" and 4".

That'll do it. But - because paint is the UKNOWN VARIABLE - always do a Test Spot and prove that with your "system", system = pad, product, tool and technique, you can make ONE SECTION look GREAT - before buffing out the entire car.

If you can make one section look great - you can make the entire car look great.

If you cannot make one section look great - it's time to stop and test another system.

What all in one or one step polish (not sure the correct name for polish) would you recommend for an orbital?

There are now two terms that are used to describe One Step Products and both are very different. Me thinks I'll write an article. But just to elaborate,

1. One-Step Cleaner/Wax
2. AIO
3. One-Step Cleaner/Sealant
4. Primer Polishes

These 4 names mean the same category of product. These are products that will,

1. Clean or remove defects.
2. Polish to restore and/or maximize gloss and clarity.
3. Protect - leave some type of protection behind so after this step - you can be done.

The newest product in the above are the Primer Polishes. These are like a cleaner/wax only instead of leaving behind wax they lay down a base layer of some form of ceramic or quartz or ? ingredient that not only seals the paint but can be the base or foundation for to which to then install a ceramic, quartz, polymer, or ? paint coating. The key benefit is the product is made in such a way that it does not have to be chemically stripped with a panel wipe, (solvent), to remove whatever the polishing oils or agents are, or the lubricating ingredients, of the carrying agents for the base protection ingredients. In my opinion, a somewhat complicated product.



The second type of One-Step are compound/polishes. These are a new innovation in abrasive technology where the product can be used with a cutting pad and in this situation the product cuts like a compound. Or you can use the product with a polishing or finishing pad and now the product abrades like a medium to fine cut polish. One example that I used recently that I thought worked incredibly well is the 3D One. See this review.


What separates an One Step Cleaner/Wax, AIO, Cleaner/Sealant or Primer Polish from a One Step Compound/Polish is that the one-step compound/polish does NOT leave behind any type of protection whereas the other 4 category of products do leave behind some form of protection.

With the first group of product, after application you can stick a fork in the project, call it done and kick it out the door.

With the second group of products, after application you should then use something to "seal" the paint as these types of products will tend to be water soluble and offer no lasting protection against rain, inclement weather, washing or even wiping with a spray detailer or waterless wash or rinseless wash as all of these things introduce WATER to the finish and usually some type of cleaning ingredient and any gloss created by the polishing oils will wear off leaving bare naked paint.


Clear as mud?

Was eyeing up the perfect finish or maybe something like Gyeon Primer.

I have used this a few times and was impressed with the abrasive technology. It's been a few years since this product was introduced and I did a FULL-ON paint correction using it in the process so I DON'T know if the formula has changed but I expect it has been improved simply because that's how GYEON rolls. :wink:

When I did use it, I initially found wipe-off to be a tick sticky but I'm pretty sure I was over using the product. Once I reduced the amount of product so I was leaving behind only a THIN film of residue to wipe-off, the wipe-off was much easier.

Here's my review and this car was 100% swirled-out BLACK paint before starting.


Review and How-To: Gyeon Compound, Polish and Primer - 1932 Ford Roadster detailed by Mike Phillips










I'd say give it a go.

I'm normally a Systems Guy, meaning most of the time I prefer to use products from a single brand when doing paint correction. Sometimes I do live on the edge and mix it up. Just depends on the project.


Synergistic Chemical Compatibility by Mike Phillips

[N8huntsman]

I've officially put my mind in a blender looking at all the pad choices. I've put about a dozen different pads in my cart only to change my mind on which ones I need.

I have an alpine white BMW, Sonax PF, and a Harbor Freight DA. What pads should I use? I know the answer is "test spot" but I don't want to buy $200 worth of pads to find out what works and I also don't want to decon the car and get it ready to polish only to find out I have the wrong pads. The paint is in good shape and I'm only looking to do a 1 step polish that will achieve decent correction. It's my daily driver and I'd like to preserve the clear coat (is that something I even need to worry about with only 1-step polishing?). My goal is to get decent correction this time around and do light maintenance/cleaner polishes every year or so. I only maintain my own cars so I don't need/want a bunch of paint correction supplies. I think I'm leaning toward B&S flat white pads but maybe I should get orange? or green? or uro-tec yellow, or hydrotech tangerine, or...

Please help me stop overthinking this!

I'm in the exact same boat, overthinking, white car, etc...
I settled on a couple 6.5" orange LC HDO pads and a single LC HDO black. Also got a LC 6" backing plate. They should be arriving soon. Also bought some Menzerna SF3500.
Which HF polisher did you get? Im looking at the $110 Bauer. Its 7.5amps and looks decent for the money, especially after you apply the coupons they always send out!

[Whipped500]

That'll do it. But - because paint is the UKNOWN VARIABLE - always do a Test Spot and prove that with your "system", system = pad, product, tool and technique, you can make ONE SECTION look GREAT - before buffing out the entire car.

If you can make one section look great - you can make the entire car look great.

If you cannot make one section look great - it's time to stop and test another system.






There are now two terms that are used to describe One Step Products and both are very different. Me thinks I'll write an article. But just to elaborate,

1. One-Step Cleaner/Wax
2. AIO
3. One-Step Cleaner/Sealant
4. Primer Polishes

These 4 names mean the same category of product. These are products that will,

1. Clean or remove defects.
2. Polish to restore and/or maximize gloss and clarity.
3. Protect - leave some type of protection behind so after this step - you can be done.

The newest product in the above are the Primer Polishes. These are like a cleaner/wax only instead of leaving behind wax they lay down a base layer of some form of ceramic or quartz or ? ingredient that not only seals the paint but can be the base or foundation for to which to then install a ceramic, quartz, polymer, or ? paint coating. The key benefit is the product is made in such a way that it does not have to be chemically stripped with a panel wipe, (solvent), to remove whatever the polishing oils or agents are, or the lubricating ingredients, of the carrying agents for the base protection ingredients. In my opinion, a somewhat complicated product.



The second type of One-Step are compound/polishes. These are a new innovation in abrasive technology where the product can be used with a cutting pad and in this situation the product cuts like a compound. Or you can use the product with a polishing or finishing pad and now the product abrades like a medium to fine cut polish. One example that I used recently that I thought worked incredibly well is the 3D One. See this review.


What separates an One Step Cleaner/Wax, AIO, Cleaner/Sealant or Primer Polish from a One Step Compound/Polish is that the one-step compound/polish does NOT leave behind any type of protection whereas the other 4 category of products do leave behind some form of protection.

With the first group of product, after application you can stick a fork in the project, call it done and kick it out the door.

With the second group of products, after application you should then use something to "seal" the paint as these types of products will tend to be water soluble and offer no lasting protection against rain, inclement weather, washing or even wiping with a spray detailer or waterless wash or rinseless wash as all of these things introduce WATER to the finish and usually some type of cleaning ingredient and any gloss created by the polishing oils will wear off leaving bare naked paint.


Clear as mud?







I have used this a few times and was impressed with the abrasive technology. It's been a few years since this product was introduced and I did a FULL-ON paint correction using it in the process so I DON'T know if the formula has changed but I expect it has been improved simply because that's how GYEON rolls. :wink:

When I did use it, I initially found wipe-off to be a tick sticky but I'm pretty sure I was over using the product. Once I reduced the amount of product so I was leaving behind only a THIN film of residue to wipe-off, the wipe-off was much easier.

Here's my review and this car was 100% swirled-out BLACK paint before starting.


Review and How-To: Gyeon Compound, Polish and Primer - 1932 Ford Roadster detailed by Mike Phillips










I'd say give it a go.

I'm normally a Systems Guy, meaning most of the time I prefer to use products from a single brand when doing paint correction. Sometimes I do live on the edge and mix it up. Just depends on the project.


Synergistic Chemical Compatibility by Mike Phillips

I was trying to say one step compound/polish... something that will take out very minor imperfections (new vehicle) and then finish too but without leaving anything behind because it's prep for a coating.

I lean towards synergy as well and that's why primer or essence etc doesn't make me warm and fuzzy since it is not part of their family that the coating is going to be. That's where I was thinking the sonax pf. I have a new bottle of Meg's ultimate polish but I'm afraid of how many oils it has.

[The Guz]

I was trying to say one step compound/polish... something that will take out very minor imperfections (new vehicle) and then finish too but without leaving anything behind because it's prep for a coating.

I lean towards synergy as well and that's why primer or essence etc doesn't make me warm and fuzzy since it is not part of their family that the coating is going to be. That's where I was thinking the sonax pf. I have a new bottle of Meg's ultimate polish but I'm afraid of how many oils it has.

You are overthinking this. Get any polish such as Sonax Perfect Finish or equivalent, prep wipe and coat.

Any polish can be used as a one step process. The hardness of the paint is also a factor.

Now get out there and coat it lol.

[Whipped500]

You are overthinking this. Get any polish such as Sonax Perfect Finish or equivalent, prep wipe and coat.

Any polish can be used as a one step process. The hardness of the paint is also a factor.

Now get out there and coat it lol.

LOL!!!
I've got everything figured out except the polish!
Brand new GM paint and a garage queen GM with 5k miles...do I buy the Sonax PF or use the ultimate polish I have and hope I prep wipe good enough? I'm leaning towards PF unless you recommend something else.

[The Guz]

LOL!!!
I've got everything figured out except the polish!
Brand new GM paint and a garage queen GM with 5k miles...do I buy the Sonax PF or use the ultimate polish I have and hope I prep wipe good enough? I'm leaning towards PF unless you recommend something else.

You can use what you have and prep wipe a couple times. You can pick up M205 locally as well which has less oils than UP. M205 does well on most GM paints.

You can’t go wrong owning Perfect Finish. It’s really nice. If you don’t want to spend the money go with you what you have.