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Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?
Has anyone tried this and how well did it work? If hosing off the car is not an option and only rinseless washing is possible, can Iron-X be used and then rinseless washed off?
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Super Member
Re: Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?
Is it possible there’s a nearby DIY
car wash facility at which you could
perform the IronX decon process?
If not:
Same “rules” apply. Here, IMO, are
two of the more important ones:
1.) Make sure IronX’s dwell-time is held to
specified recommendation.
2.) Make sure to thoroughly rinse away every
single bit of IronX’ed residues from all of the
vehicle’s surfaces—Of course it’ll be harder to
do with a RW.
Don’t forget the emblems, trim, door handles,
etc.; or, as the Yardbirds once intoned:
”Over under sideways down,
Backwards forwards square and round.”
Bob
"Be wary of the man who urges an action in which he himself incurs no risk."
~Joaquin de Setanti
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Super Member
Re: Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?
I myself would say no, I wouldn't advise it, and best plan is mentioned above by the previous poster. A coin-op spray wash if you have one in your area.
Firstly, this stuff stinks to high heaven. To have it possibly hang around for any length of time might be unbearable fragrance-wise.
Two, without being able to fully rinse this product away from little nooks, cracks and crannies might also be detrimental. Having used this product a few times, I've seen it bleed for a very long time, where copious amounts of water were needed to fully flush.
Purple residues were still coming out from many areas for numerous minutes of heavy flushing-rinsing.
My theory was to continue flushing and rinsing till I no longer seen it.
And even doing this outdoors, I could smell this stuff outside 2 weeks later!
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Re: Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?
Just to chime in,
Half my forum work is simply remembering all the cars I've worked on over the last 10 years....
Hang tight...
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Re: Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?
Continued...
Just a pre-warning
It's not recommended to use Iron X without rinsing the residue off. So for best results, always fallow the manufacturer's directions.
That said, I used a modified technique of using a HEAVY saturation of Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Wash to wash off the residue as I worked around the car. I also used the Tornado Air Blowout Gun WITH a heavy saturation of Detailer's Pro Series Waterless Wash around any trim or emblems to flush the component with waterless wash and then blast out the residue.
Process
Step 1 - Chemically decontaminate the car
I used a modified technique for Iron X because I wanted to make sure any iron contamination is removed. I sprayed down the body panels with Iron X starting with horizontal panels first and then after they were rinsed clean I moved onto the vertical panels only tackling one side at a time.
Step 2 - Wash car using DP Waterless Auto Wash
For this I used a super heavy saturation with LOTS of clean microfiber towels to liquefy the Iron X and wipe it plus any and all dirt off the body panels.
Step 3 - Mechanically decontaminate the paint
For this we used the Porter Cable 7424XP with Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads (Medium Grade) and Detailer's Pro Series Universal Clay Lube
Step 4 - Compound paint using SONAX CUTMAX
For this step we used the SONAX CUTMAX with the Flex 3401 on Speed 6 with 6.5" Lake Country Hybrid Orange Cutting Pads.
Step 5 - Machine polish and wax using SONAX PAINT CLEANER HYBRID NPT
Next we used the SONAX PAINT CLEANER which is not technically a dedicated paint cleaner but a hi-tech cleaner/sealant.
A cleaner/sealant is like a cleaner/wax in that it will clean, polish and protect in one step only instead of using some type of natural wax ingredient for protection it uses some type of synthetic ingredients for protection.
Rob McCrary at SONAX USA told me that the SONAX PAINT CLEANER had the cutting ability of SONAX Profiline Nano Polish. So this should remove any haze left by the aggressive compounding step while leaving the paint clear, glossy, rich in color and also protected.
For the exterior glass, chrome and stainless steel trim I simply ran over these surfaces using the orange Hybrid cutting pad with the SONAX CUTMAX.
Hubcaps and tires were wiped clean using an all purpose cleaner.
Now on to the pictures...
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Re: Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?
The real key to using any Iron Remover without access to running water via a garden hose or even a Coin-op Car Wash is to use LOTS of Rinseless Wash or in my example above, I used lots of Waterless Wash.
The below is from post #3 from the above write-up.
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
This is me saturating the roof with a very wet coat of DP Waterless Wash. This is taking the place of a normal water hose flush. This car does not have working brakes so I can't easily move it in and out of the garage.
I still wanted to chemically decontaminate the paint however so I used this modified technique of using lots of waterless wash to flush the surface and then immediately wipe the residues off the car. And "yes" this technique worked for me. Follow my process at your own judgment.
So lots of rinseless or waterless wash and lots of drying towels.
Hope that helps...
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Super Member
Re: Using Iron-X in a rinseless wash situation?
I miss the Old DP lineup. Some great products PRICED really well.
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