Having issues with paint correction

[nprotz]

What size backing plate? The Griot's comes with a 6" backing plate, this forces you to use large pads. Pad size can be a factor when it comes to 8mm free spinning DA polishers.

Also - Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover uses amazing abrasive technology, I trust it on ANY paint.

BUT - it's a MEDIUM cut polish. So it has limits. I'd highly recommend adding the Wolfgang Uber Compound, you will NEVER be disappointed in either product.





You need MORE product. Try again with a CLEAN DRY foam cutting pad and use NICKEL size dollops.

I think I have an article somewhere that makes fun of all the detailing Gurus and Experts that preach pea sized drops. That's ridiculous. You need a certai amount of product to get the job done.

Any expert teaching pea sized drops probably on shows a demo on a hood because when you buff out ENTIRE cars you know this is ridiculous.

Thanks for the input Mike! I bought the Griots 5” vented backing plate and all my pads are 5”. I did use more product initially but then back off some. Still don’t think I was using nickel sized drops though. My first time polishing, I had primed the pads first like in one of your videos but had a heat issue and posted here...seems like I was told not to prime so can’t remember. I’ll definitely try more next time.


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[nprotz]

Another option is the GREY Lake Country ThinPro foam pads. These are very stiff and sharp foam cutting pads. I rarely use them as they are so hard BUT they are sharp and cut fast.

I show the owners of this old 2-door Chevy using them on the anemic Porter Cable to remove severe water spots, (the worst type of defect to remove in my opinion besides tracers and pigtails), and the owner and his buddy had zero experience and thus zero skill to work with and with the pad they removed the spots

1955 Chevy Bel Air with a $15,000.00 Custom Paint Job - How to remove water spots


Since others shared their tools of choice, if it were me I would have put a foam cutting pad on a BEAST and just got it over with.



Million ways to skin a cat....

Thanks so much! I bought some of the Thin Pro Orange in 5” and one gray in 3”. I like the gray ok but using the bigger ones the machine seems to wobble. It doesn’t seem as smooth as the normal pads. The gray does seem to cut well though.

What tool are you referring to as the Beast?


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[mckobe]

I started with a 3401. I knew if I went with something less, I would want more like hp. I would of wasted money. 2-3 passes

[mckobe]

What tool are you referring to as the Beast?

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Flex 3401

[Calendyr]

What size backing plate? The Griot's comes with a 6" backing plate, this forces you to use large pads. Pad size can be a factor when it comes to 8mm free spinning DA polishers.

Also - Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover uses amazing abrasive technology, I trust it on ANY paint.

BUT - it's a MEDIUM cut polish. So it has limits. I'd highly recommend adding the Wolfgang Uber Compound, you will NEVER be disappointed in either product.





You need MORE product. Try again with a CLEAN DRY foam cutting pad and use NICKEL size dollops.

I think I have an article somewhere that makes fun of all the detailing Gurus and Experts that preach pea sized drops. That's ridiculous. You need a certai amount of product to get the job done.

Any expert teaching pea sized drops probably on shows a demo on a hood because when you buff out ENTIRE cars you know this is ridiculous.

You touched on items I forgot to mention I think that once the pad is full of product, using pea size drops (4 of them for me) is ok. But to start a dry pad, it's definatelly not enough product. What is your view on priming the pad Mike? I am on the fence. I have primed and not primed and not seen much of a difference. Priming uses a lot of product and seems to get the pad gunked up much faster... so I went back to not priming...

Pad size was a big item I forgot... definatelly want a 5.5" pad on a 8mm DA. I wish using 4" pads was easier, that is the one size I do not have for lack of offering both for backing plates and pad companies. I think 3" takes too long to do anything but 5.5" if often too large for some very curvy pannels. 4" would be amazing for those ;(

[Calendyr]

I don’t like a ton of pressure either. All of these vehicles, especially my Jeep, have very thin panels. The guy that replaced some vinyl on my Jeep leaned on the hood and dented it all up. He had to pay a dent guy to fix it. So I’m cautious about pressure. I used more pressure on my truck and the hood would push down and pop up like a can.


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You need to put enough pressure for the abrasives to engage the paint. With no pressure the polisher is just floating on the panel not doing much. There is a sweet spot where you are putting just enough pressure to engage the abrasives but not enough to slow down the rotation. 15 pounds is about the ideal pressure.

On long throw machines Rupes has promoted the no-pressure method for a long time... and I used it... but when my Rupes broke down last year (and it's still in the shop for a second time, going on 3 months now...) I had to switch to the Griot's G15 and in order to get correction done, pressure was needed. I think Rupes don't want you to put pressure on their machines because the motor is pretty weak and it might break faster or you might simply loose pad rotation too quickly if you did. In any case, you can do correction without pressure but it's much less effective... especially on hard paint.

[Calendyr]

Thanks for the input Mike! I bought the Griots 5” vented backing plate and all my pads are 5”. I did use more product initially but then back off some. Still don’t think I was using nickel sized drops though. My first time polishing, I had primed the pads first like in one of your videos but had a heat issue and posted here...seems like I was told not to prime so can’t remember. I’ll definitely try more next time.


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If you use microfiber it's better to prime. You want all the strands of fibers to be able to do some work. On foam, as I was mentionning to Mike... I am not convinced it is a good idea...