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Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Looks like the pads were just cooked. I’m not saying you did anything wrong..
But you were going after severe defects / scratches with polishing pads, TSR, & UC. You probably were on the boarder of what those products could handle.
Next time get some MF pads & a compound with a more aggressive cut.
Also, work time is very important too. Compounds that have a long work time you use less of them - less liquid in the pad it stays cooler. TSR is fine - but if you are using it aggressively it will hum up pads. You prolly would have been better off with Wolfgang Compound
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Do you have a long throw machine or a regular DA? Buff&shine flatpads don't do well on long throws. On mine, the velcro kept failing and it was throwing the pads off the backplate as soon as I lifted the polisher from the paint.
So if you have a long throw machine, I suggest you get Lake Country HDO pads next time, they do very well on them, and they are also amazing pads to boot
Back to your current pads. You could use them but there is a risk. If you still want to use them, turn the speed on the machine down and don't stress them too much because the center part of the foam no longer has structural strenght, so they might rip. They might also have started to delaminate in the center section, you can pull on the foam when it's on the backing plate and if you can lift it, it means it's no longer attached to the velcro on that section... a definite warning there.
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
I stopped priming because of that. I put a few extra dots on the first pass so the pad isn’t too dry. When you prime foam pads they already get saturated and you keep adding more and more. Microfiber is a different story.
Also don’t put too much pressure and don’t use the machine on really high speed.
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Originally Posted by nprotz
No I pulled it into my garage to polish. Although temps are in the 90s now, so probably in the 80s inside with no air conditioner.
I’m using Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 but also used Meguiars Ultimate Compound. I probably used 6-7 oz combined of compound. It had severe scratches and swirls so I polished it one day, washed pads then did some other spots again the next day when my pads were dry. I probably needed a heavier cutting pad.
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I might use 4 oz of compound through the entire process, and go through four to six pads. I never prime them either. 4 medium pea sized drops is enough to get the pad self primed during the first set of passes. Usually two on the reload.
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Originally Posted by PaulMys
Very true.
And good call.
I'm not a fan of priming. The pads get saturated too quickly IMO.
To the OP: Until you get more experience, turn off the machine after like 2 section passes and check for excess product in the center of the pad.
Feel the center with the back of your index finger to check for excessive heat.
Also, get yourself a pad cleaning brush. I have the Griot's brush, but there are many others. If you find buildup on the pad, use the brush to knock it off (with the machine running) and ease up on the amount of product.
Thanks, I’ll definitively do this. Seems like one had some buildup in the center. Can’t remember if it was one of these or not. I bet it was
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Originally Posted by swanicyouth
Looks like the pads were just cooked. I’m not saying you did anything wrong..
But you were going after severe defects / scratches with polishing pads, TSR, & UC. You probably were on the boarder of what those products could handle.
Next time get some MF pads & a compound with a more aggressive cut.
Also, work time is very important too. Compounds that have a long work time you use less of them - less liquid in the pad it stays cooler. TSR is fine - but if you are using it aggressively it will hum up pads. You prolly would have been better off with Wolfgang Compound
I bet this was my problem. I have a 3” microfiber pad and it cut better. I kept feeling like I wasn’t cutting enough and my product was drying some. I tried to take care to stop when it started to dry.
I’ll check out the Wolfgang compound.
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Originally Posted by Calendyr
Do you have a long throw machine or a regular DA? Buff&shine flatpads don't do well on long throws. On mine, the velcro kept failing and it was throwing the pads off the backplate as soon as I lifted the polisher from the paint.
So if you have a long throw machine, I suggest you get Lake Country HDO pads next time, they do very well on them, and they are also amazing pads to boot
Back to your current pads. You could use them but there is a risk. If you still want to use them, turn the speed on the machine down and don't stress them too much because the center part of the foam no longer has structural strenght, so they might rip. They might also have started to delaminate in the center section, you can pull on the foam when it's on the backing plate and if you can lift it, it means it's no longer attached to the velcro on that section... a definite warning there.
Thanks for the info. I have just the regular DA polisher. I’ll check the pads but I’ll probably just throw them out. This was my first time polishing so I don’t wanna take any chances.
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Originally Posted by BSoares
I stopped priming because of that. I put a few extra dots on the first pass so the pad isn’t too dry. When you prime foam pads they already get saturated and you keep adding more and more. Microfiber is a different story.
Also don’t put too much pressure and don’t use the machine on really high speed.
I used it on 6. I guess I should back that down then?
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Super Member
Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Originally Posted by nprotz
Yeah, I usually keep it around 4.5. My first time polishing I also primed and used speed 6 and that led to pad failure. Learned from that and never had issues again.
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Re: Issues with Buff and Shine Pads
Originally Posted by nprotz
Speed 6 can be fine, but I only use it with light pressure. As tool speed decreases pressure increases to at most a "moderare" level.
The pad never appears compressed at any point. The theory is to let the pad, abrasive, and motion of the polisher remove paint.
If you ever pick up a scrap panel, get some sanding discs, and you'll get a gauge of the pressure you want. Heavy pressure moisture, and high speed cooks pads, and slows results.
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