Think I know, but...no cure

**scooterguitar** · 07-13-2006, 12:10 PM

No cure time needed after a glaze before topping with nuba, right?

**Meghan** · 07-13-2006, 12:12 PM

Originally Posted by scooterguitar

No cure time needed after a glaze before topping with nuba, right?

I didn't know this answer I will admit, but I asked Jason and he said it would be best for it to cure first.

**scooterguitar** · 07-13-2006, 12:19 PM

Really? I KNOW I have heard you can top right afterwards, but for some reason I deemed it neccessary to ask. Let us investigate further...

**FloridaNative** · 07-13-2006, 12:28 PM

I think it depends on what glaze you are using. Like Meg's #7 for example will completely dissappear in an hour under the sun so you need to top that one immediately, but we keep going around and around with trying to define what a glaze is. lol I agree with what Killr said in another post that terms are used very loosely and so it is up to the consumer to do the research as to what the product does instead of what the product name says. Meg's glaze doesn't clean, doesn't have abrasives and doesn't have much durability and therefore needs to be topped quickly, but then you have the Clearkote glazes that have cleaners and WG glaze that has abrasives. I think with a glaze you have to take each one on it's own merit. It's no wonder this topic keeps coming up. It is confusing.

**Meghan** · 07-13-2006, 12:49 PM

The problem is the word glaze like polish is used very loosely... them me the glaze that you are using and I will consult with Jason for you.

**scooterguitar** · 07-13-2006, 01:05 PM

Meghan, my list is long! Primarily, RMG and VM. Also the Wolfgang is what I'll be trying out next week (going to try all Wolf products on one ride).

**ScottB** · 07-13-2006, 03:30 PM

the products that you are likely to use (after all they are going under a nuba, correct) are not synthetic in design. As such, you can coat them almost immediately. Since most have no protection, you might wanna do it as fast as possible also as the sun can quickly tear thru some fillers if you are detailing in direct sunlight. The only glazes that I personally would allow a curing time, would be some connected too, or offering sythetic protection (ie paint sealant) in them. (not many)

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now remember to read the directions, as most glazes need to setup and haze before removal. Dont misassociate setup versus curing. Curing to me, is the hours needed AFTER removal to bond.