Help with bonded contaminants

[kwwhite1]

Hey all I was wondering if anyone could offer advice on this paint cleansing dilemma I am currently having. Its a white Aventador that has by far the most horrific bonded contamination I have ever seen. I started with regular wash then Iron decon and the car went from white to purple! I clayed with a fine clay, then medium, aggressive, and clay pad on the DA but still had these black spots bonded to the paint. I tried de-greaser, APC, more iron remover, and bug and tar remover with no luck. It does react to the iron remover but will not come off. I even hit it with a wool pad with m110 on the rotary just to see if I could take it off with no real success. The only thing that worked on a small test area was 3m 3000 grit sanding discs. I would like an alternative to having to color sand the hood and front fender sections if possible. I am correcting the whole vehicle as is but would like to avoid the time to color sand. Thank you so much for any input.

[SWETM]

A close up picture would be of a lot of help. It's not necessary to be iron partical but some kind of contaminant that the fallout has clinged to. Seems strange that the aggressive clay didn't get it. Have seen anything that has desolved it even a little?

I have only heard of this in some environments in the US. It's called Artillery Fungus that looks like a tar spot. And what I can remember the clay where the to get them off.

What Bug and Tar remover did you use?

Can it be some kind of overspray from paint of some kind?

[kwwhite1]

Thank you for the feedback. I took a picture but its blury and just looks like black spots. I thought the same thing when it did not respond much to the aggressive clay which has never let me down before. I used gyeon tar remover and iron x which had minimal effect. I ended up just hitting the 2 panels with 3m 3000 grit, the paint depth was good so I had plenty of clear coat to work with and was the most time effective method despite adding another day to the job but the owner opted for Zipang coat so it was worthwhile. I am wondering if Citrol 266 may have done the trick but I did not have any on hand. I have never seen anything like it but I am guessing all the junk floating around in the Los Angeles air had something to do with it. Thanks again for responding I really appreciate it.

[kwwhite1]

I just googled artillery fungus, It looked very similar.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I've read about artillery fungus, but never seen it. If you are wet-sanding, please make sure you grab some paint measurements... I'm not sure of the process as to how Lambo's are painted, but if they're anything like a traditional vehicle, (assembly line/robot spray) then one can count on the fact that the paint will be thin...

[kwwhite1]

This would be my first time ever seeing it if in fact that is what it was. They are painted by Imperiale and generally have a good amount to work with correction wise. I was able to get it done but definitely want to figure out a less invasive way to deal with this if I ever come across it in the future. I always get worried when abrading paint especially when a screw up would be costly! Thank you for the feed back!

[LSNAutoDetailing]

This would be my first time ever seeing it if in fact that is what it was. They are painted by Imperiale and generally have a good amount to work with correction wise. I was able to get it done but definitely want to figure out a less invasive way to deal with this if I ever come across it in the future. I always get worried when abrading paint especially when a screw up would be costly! Thank you for the feed back!

Do you have a ceramic coating? That will be your best insurance policy for the future. First,
I bet the fungus will have a hard time bonding to the quartz. Second, the coating will be a sacrificial barrier.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LSNAutoDetailing]

Oh, and we like pictures of lambo’s....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SWETM]

Since it did bleed with the iron remover. It can be overspray from when grind some kind of steel. Like in a mechanics garage or if it has stod beside a construction work. These iron particals is way larger and also often hotter than something from the brakes. It can be melted in the clearcoat or even through it. And have it been on for a longer time it can grabb hard in the paint. But then when I think about it it would not be an uniform spot and more like a stretched out kind of shape.

I saw an Youtube video about artillery fungus. It was needed a lot of claying on the same spot. So it can be needed a little more aggitations over the spots than useally claying is needed.

Maybe the Citrol 266 could get it. It's just to find the right kind of chemical that desolves just that contaminants you work on. So it's good to have a wide range of chemical products that is based on different chemicals. As different kind of chemicals desolves different kind of dirt and contaminants. And some do it better than the other on the same kind of dirt and contaminants. So many times I think it's being a detective to find out what you are going to desolve. And sometimes the chemicals is not enough or would damage to much and needs mechanical removal to get it off.

Think there is some spider poo that is bonded hard on the paint. So it's hard to know what it is if you don't have an access to where the car have been stored. Or if it's driven a lot it can be picked up anywhere LOL. It's very frustrateing when you get these contaminants that won't budge with almost anything.

[kwwhite1]

I ended up going with the Zipang coating for the owner so hopefully that will protect the car from getting that stuff again in the future. The car was absolutely filthy and for a car of that price I was actually quite shocked the owner had not done more to take care of it.