IronX, et al - is it the real deal or just a fad?

[hooked]

Ok folks. I don’t mean to step on any toes but I have to ask.

I got into detailing when I bought my BLACK 2006 Honda Accord and back then you clayed a new car to remove the rail dust and other embedded contaminants from your paint. And you clayed older paint to remove accumulated contaminants.

i just got a new car and I started to research what’s new in the detailing world and now I’m seeing you need to use IronX or some other iron remover to remove ferrous particles from paint. And this is in addition to the trusty clay bar. Is this really a revolutionary development or is it a new toy to play with? Seeing the purple streaks are cool, after all.

PS. I’m not trolling. I am genuinely curious. I’ll add it to my process if the verdict is that it’s a necessity.

[Rrthomas78]

Ok folks. I don’t mean to step on any toes but I have to ask.

I got into detailing when I bought my BLACK 2006 Honda Accord and back then you clayed a new car to remove the rail dust and other embedded contaminants from your paint. And you clayed older paint to remove accumulated contaminants.

i just got a new car and I started to research what’s new in the detailing world and now I’m seeing you need to use IronX or some other iron remover to remove ferrous particles from paint. And this is in addition to the trusty clay bar. Is this really a revolutionary development or is it a new toy to play with? Seeing the purple streaks are cool, after all.

PS. I’m not trolling. I am genuinely curious. I’ll add it to my process if the verdict is that it’s a necessity.

I dont use it..i clay before a polish or wax...im sure it works great but my paint is 18 years old and my system has gotten me this far

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[Setec Astronomy]

I wouldn't call it a necessity. A lot of it is hype and "bleeding". Not that people haven't done tests by claying and then using an iron-eater and proving that clay isn't getting it all off. But a lot of it depends on what you get on your paint based on where you are, how/where you drive, etc. Plus they all smell pretty bad, and it's a clingy smell that doesn't go away quickly or easily.

[SWETM]

I look at it as a helper to the claying. And as I understand it it's not the iron partical it self the iron remover desolve. It's the oxidized part of the iron partical that a iron remover desolve. So when you get a iron partical lodge in the clearcoat you can get it out easy with a clay if doing it directly when it's happens. The iron particals oxidize fast and have you seen rust building up it's the same as. And the problem is the that the oxidized iron particals takes bigger place and gets the iron partical to expand and lodge in harder in the clearcoat. If you where to clay it out you will rip it out of the clearcoat. And sometimes the clay is not strong enough to do so but it's only shave the iron partical off leveled with the clearcoat. If you use an effective iron remover to desolve the oxidized part of the iron partical first. Since it has gotten bigger in the clearcoat the iron partical useally just rinses off or is wiped out with a mf towel if you prefer that method. But even if you control with a second application of the iron remover and it's not bleeding. It's not certain you got the iron partical out of the clearcoat. Iron particals has very jagged edges and there for it can be hard to get off any material it getting on. But often it's those edges that first start to oxidize and when desolved they are easier to dislodge from the clearcoat. So the damage an oxidized iron partical can do if you let it sit in the clearcoat or when you claying and rip it out of it. It's a safer option to use an iron remover to help me get the iron particals out of the clearcoat. Is it necessary to do so. I don't know and it's been fine before. But who knows in the longrun if it could get some spots where the iron partical has done enough damage to penetrate the paint down to the metall and you get a rust spot. Then you have the visual that is noticed with a little spot of rust. That's why I use iron remover to help me get the iron particals out as safe as possible. And there is a difference between the effectiveness from them. The Carpro IronX is known for be one of the most effective to desolve the oxidized iron particals fast and thoroughly. To get them out of the clearcoat easier with one application. And the clay will get it out when I clay after the use of the iron remover.

/Tony

[1500canoe]

I used iron-x on my 6 month old 2018 and saw literally nothing happen. No purple, no change. I guess that means I don't have any iron contamination.

It does smell like death but if you use it outside it's fine.

[Dan Tran]

Iron X I use as needed.

I do agree that it aids in the entire decontamination process as a whole—meaning claying goes smoother.


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[Setec Astronomy]

I used iron-x on my 6 month old 2018 and saw literally nothing happen. No purple, no change. I guess that means I don't have any iron contamination.

I remember when I first got the Sonax FE wheel cleaner, all these forum pictures with red wheels...I sprayed it on my wheels...nothing...NOTHING. I figured it was because my car had ceramic brake pads. Of course I later learned that different cars throw off different amounts of iron depending on the pad/rotor/etc.

Plus I also think frequent washing (of the paint and wheels) and good LSP reduces the amount of contamination of any kind, including iron, from bonding to the paint. In the same way, at least for me, claying almost seems like a waste of time, for a well-maintained car--seems like nothing comes off.

[Paul A.]

I like to think Iron X (or equivalents) penetrate a bit more "sub" surface and help dissolve metallic bits that have lodged themselves deeper into the paint.

Claying might shear of metallic bits leaving something to rust later below the surface.

[vobro]

I look at it as an aid on certain situations, if you have a car with Brembo or other high performance pads then yes it will be a time saver. Cars like BMW's put out a lot of heavy dust and when neglected an iron remover is a necessity not only on the wheels but also the adjacent panels that will accumulate brake dust. The other benefit is that you'll induce less marring compared to a clay bar/mit, I've found that usually I can get just about perfect results with a iron/clay treatment compared to using clay 2-3 times on a panel which means I'm rubbthe paint less. Try claying black wheels often and you'll see a benefit to an iron remover

[TTQ B4U]

Take an old rusty pipe or misc metal that is corroding, test it out and you will see that it indeed does what it says.

I use it for two reasons:

• Prior to physically decontaminating the paint, I want to remove as much particulates as I can as to reduce any additional marring or damage to the paint.
• Prior to polishing I think it's best to remove as much of the contaminants prior to grinding them into the paint as I polish thus reducing the likelihood of micro marring. Removing them also prolongs the life of my pads.

I don't see it as a fad or hype as again, I've used it to remove rust on other items besides car related parts and surfaces.