IronX, et al - is it the real deal or just a fad?

[TTQ B4U]

I like to think Iron X (or equivalents) penetrate a bit more "sub" surface and help dissolve metallic bits that have lodged themselves deeper into the paint.

Claying might shear of metallic bits leaving something to rust later below the surface.

^^ this. Key IMO to helping reduce the likelihood of the clear coat being compromised as the particles further corrode.

[ScottH]

It is especially useful on wheels to remove brake dust. In such applications, two - three times a year will greatly improve the appearance of your wheels - IME.

ScottH

[rlmccarty2000]

It’s a cheap insurance policy if you intend on keep your car for a long time. If you are leasing, not necessary.

[Farmallluvr]

I would think it is a must have if you are doing a ceramic coating or such because you don't want to trap contamination between the coating and the painted surface and llike Vobro said painted wheels,,,I'd buy some just for that

If you are just an average ordinary guy who just details his car on the weekends I think using just clay is fine.
I mainly do detail for retail used cars so I haven't found that must have use for it since both foundrys in town or now closed.

[hooked]

I just bought a new car (Kia Niro) and it’s going to be a daily driver. The detailing fever has died down so I know I’m not going to be out there every weekend cleaning it. I do want to do a good first detailing on it to start its life right. I’m not even sure that the dealership hack guy used soap to prep the car for delivery. I think I’m going to get some IronX mainly out of curiosity. And my other car is due for some love too so I don’t want to make it jealous.

Thnaks for your input everyone.

[cyclops]

Like Rimcarty said its cheap insurance. Anytime we can remove contaminants without mechanical action it is a good thing. Just used it on the wife's garage queen with year old Wolfgang coating, ended up with a puddle of red around the car so was working.
Maybe the placebo affect but did seem to bring the coating on the side panels back to life.

[itsgn]

I wouldn't call it a necessity. A lot of it is hype and "bleeding". Not that people haven't done tests by claying and then using an iron-eater and proving that clay isn't getting it all off.

To me it seems evident, that the primary use of Iron X would be NOT to use it with claying, but when and where claying is not an option, because you won't or can't polish the paint, or where you can't even reach with a clay - like inner wheel parts or around nuts and bolts. So, even if we agree that Iron X possibly won't remove anything (or just in negligible amounts) that a clay won't, it might still make sense to use this product in other situations, for other purposes.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

There are two types of contamination, above bonded contaminants (pollen, tar, road gunk, etc..) and industrial fall out, ferrous metal particles that are bonded to the clear coat.
The first type is handled by clay and is referred to as "mechanical decontamination." The second type is handled by a dedicated iron remover and is referred to as "chemical decontamination."

The first thing one must understand is the static charge that occurs so that paint will be attracted to the sheet metal. Google search this topic and add Mike Phillips to the search, as there are several articles and topics Mike has written about this subject.

The second concept is: Clear-coat is thin. Maintenance and proper care will provide a long lasting life for the clear-coat . Not maintaining it will result in clear-coat failure. Again, search clear-coat is thin, add Mike Phillips' name to the search and again, articles will appear.

Lastly, to learn all about how and why to chemically decontaminate paint, Mike covers this amazingly well in his book The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine, starting on page 11, "Paint Decontamination."

Any corrosive substances like acid
rain or contaminants containing iron
including iron particles from things
like brake dust and rail dust penetrate
into the paint and cannot always be
completely removed by washing or
claying. It’s also possible for some
iron particles to be removed by clay.
However, they can embed into the clay
itself and inflict swirls and scratches
into the paint as the clay is rubbed over
the surface

By using a dedicated product to remove contaminants in/on the clear-coat, this allows further products in the detail process, such as polishing, etc, to work more effectively. In such you're ensuring a large percentage of the removal of both above bonded contaminants (by claying) and chemical contaminants by using an iron remover. On a dark colored vehicle Iron-X doesn't always appear to be working, but on a white, silver or lighter vehicle, we refer to this as "bleeding like a stuck pig."

In this photo, this is a brand new 2016 Mustang, it was purchased just days before getting a complete detail.




In this photo, here is Iron-X working on the back of a white GMC Acadia




In this photo,the hood of this Lincoln Town Car is bleeding like a stuck pig!



All the products used during a detail process concatenate upon themselves. I got a call from a prospective customer who out of the blue asked "now, I've heard of clay... do you use clay?" I laughed and first equated that to asking a handy man if he or she will be using a screw driver while fixing my house. They are all tools in the tool box. Whether you opt to use them or not is your choice. There are no hard and fast rules, just tried and true ways.

Hope all this helps!

[FUNX650]

Is this really a revolutionary development
or is it a new toy to play with?

Seeing the purple streaks are cool, after all.

•Chemical decontamination is not a
revolutionary development: it is
a process that’s been going on for
a quite a long time now—ValuGard’s
“A,B,C”; and, Finish Kare’s “1,2,3”
Neutralization Systems are a few
that come to mind.

•Many OEM manufacturers have chemical
paint decontamination as part and parcel
of the dealerships’ PDI and their own paint
warranty programs.

***********************************

The main differences between IronX, and
its ilk; and those above listed systems;
can, basically, be boiled down to:

-IronX, et al:
1.) you can see iron contaminates being
dissolved (the bleeding effects/purple
streaking)
2.) they’re One-Step (self-contained) systems
3.) “That smell of death surrounds you”

-Valugard; FK; et al:
1.) Can’t see the iron contaminates being
dissolved (no bleeding/purple streaks)
2.) basically are Three-Step systems
3.) “The smell of death”? Not so much.


IMO:
Making either type of chemical decontamination
system an integral part of a vehicle’s overall de-
tailing processes is not one to be overlooked. Or
offhandedly dismissed.


Bob

[SWETM]

Before the IronX products that bleeding with the red/purple. You had as above noticed chemical that did not show the oxidized iron particals desolveing. And that is still used today by many. For an example Meguiars Wheel Brightener D140 is desolving the oxidized iron particals just as effective as a bleeding wheel cleaner. So you used acidic based products to handle this back in the day. They where mostly based on oxalic acid. And many cheaper acid wheel cleaners is so today too. The oxalic acid you can buy in powder form and mix with water and gets you a very cheap iron remover. Only problem with it is you don't see the desolving action happens. It's much used on boats to clean the water line and also effective to desolve the oxidized gelcoat. And so was it on the single stage paint too. Especially noticed on the white single stage paint that got that yellowing happened on it. It where a lot of work but you can revive it with some elbow grease and patience. And as I understand it it's still gets a acidic reaction when the bleeding iron remover desolve it. The liquid it self is ph neutral but the bleeding reaction is acidic as I have understand it.