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  1. #1
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    window sealant advice

    I am trying to figure out the best window sealant to use on my vehicles. I would prefer something that will last a year or longer. I was originally about getting the Griots Garage Glass Polishing System since my windshields have never been done but I cannot find a lot otf information about his product. I would prefer something that is fairly easy to apply. If there is a different product you would recommend I would love to hear that as well.

  2. #2
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    Re: window sealant advice

    I am running three brands on my cars, my most recent product is the Griots Glass Sealant. All are similar in function but have various expected life. Aquapel at $8 does one windshield and maybe side glass per my try. My other is not carried by AG but did fine and did about 3-vehicles but per their life is about 200-miles of running the wipers. Cost is good but $9 for 4-oz bottle and starts with AD. I recently had the chance to try Griots and for $9 bottle I have 8-oz of product. It works the same you get more and easy to apply. I also have their glass polish and used it my oldest auto. The issue is realistically most are not going to last a year due to those wipers rubbing it away. But I can attest and have video of proof that you do not use them as much on most rains. After about 40 MPH the drops will race off the windshield, it is so much fun. I have yet to spend the money for the glass coatings due to cost. It really is too easy to go the other products, I clean the glass frequently. Your choice!

  3. #3
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    Re: window sealant advice

    Gtechniq G5 works like a charm for me. It will not last a year (well, at least not without noticeable degradation in performance), but will last several months, and can be very easily (re-)applied - unlike more durable products. Which would be something like Gtechniq G1 or CarPro FlyBy, which, however, are a lot harder to apply, and might actually perform worse in the short or medium term.

    CarPro HydrO2 Foam also works very well. It won't last even probably a month, but considering that you don't have to apply it separately makes it a no brainer and a real time saver compared to dedicated glass coatings, if you're using the product to wash your car anyway.

    Whatever you chose, make sure to polish the glass first, at least with something at the level of Gtechniq G4 and a manual polishing pad. However, if the glass has already wiper trails or a lot of scratches apparent even to the naked eye, then you better subject it to a more aggressive polish with machine, or otherwise those defects will noticeable reduce the performance of any sealant or coating you might apply to it.

  4. #4
    Regular Member Jon TDS's Avatar
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    Re: window sealant advice

    I have Griots too on our personal car. Got unlucky with a massive hit to our windshield but lucky I have some glass sealant that I didn't have to use the wipers when it rained.

    Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

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  6. #5
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    Re: window sealant advice

    That hit is bigger than a quarter so fails safety check, but expect the stains on driver’s seat can be removed.

  7. #6
    Regular Member Jon TDS's Avatar
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    Re: window sealant advice

    Yeah good thing we have coverage. Getting it replaced this Wednesday. Such a hassle.

    Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

  8. #7
    Super Member PA DETAILER's Avatar
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    Re: window sealant advice

    I am currently running the old DP glass coat. I just reapplied it a 2 weeks ago. I am sure the new version from McKess is similar. Cant complain about it. Takes everything that is thrown at the windshield.
    2018 Colorado ZR2

  9. #8
    Super Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: window sealant advice

    [QUOTE=itsgn;1600254]Gtechniq G5 works like a charm for me. It will not last a year (well, at least not without noticeable degradation in performance), but will last several months, and can be very easily (re-)applied - unlike more durable products. Which would be something like Gtechniq G1 or CarPro FlyBy, which, however, are a lot harder to apply, and might actually perform worse in the short or medium term.




    I beg to differ as Gtechniq G5 is a bear to remove and FlyBy flashes to quickly that buffing is often not necessary.

  10. #9
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    Re: window sealant advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Rsurfer View Post
    I beg to differ as Gtechniq G5 is a bear to remove and FlyBy flashes to quickly that buffing is often not necessary.
    I think you're either confusing G5 with something else (like G1), or if you really had a hard time buffing it, then you didn't follow instructions and applied it too thick or something. Or it was an early version of the product (not in the last few years), or the compound somehow got damaged (like it froze in transit) or something.

    Because with G5, when applied properly, there's essentially nothing to buff off. You only have to apply a thin, oil film like layer of it over the glass (using an AP1 applicator), which is only enough to slightly change the window tone (temporarily) to a darker one, then let G5 cure, and finally only remove the high spots - which again, not only look like oily smears, but also come off as easy as if they were. You only need like 5-6 larger drops of the product on the applicator to cover an average size windshield.

    I've been applying G5 to windows and windshields for quite a time now and in various weather conditions, and I've never had a problem with it, never even had to really buff it, like a wax or even like the residue of a cutting or polishing compound left on the surface. The "buffing" phase of G5 is really just wiping the excess stuff off with no pressure needed whatsoever.

    Maybe if you put too much of the product on the surface, so that it became that grayish-brown (which is the color of the original compound/solution in the bottle), then it will be harder to remove the excess or something. Or if you do it in direct sunlight, that might make it also problematic. But when following the directions, preparing the surface properly and not overapplying the product, I can assure you, that there's nothing easier than "buffing off" the excess product residue of G5.

    The "hard" part of using G5 is not that, but applying the product on the glass with the small applicator using overlapping circular motions, because this goes relatively slowly and requires a lot of elbow grease. But even that not so much in terms of strength and power, but in terms of endurance and persistence.

  11. #10
    Super Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: window sealant advice

    Quote Originally Posted by itsgn View Post
    I think you're either confusing G5 with something else (like G1), or if you really had a hard time buffing it, then you didn't follow instructions and applied it too thick or something. Or it was an early version of the product (not in the last few years), or the compound somehow got damaged (like it froze in transit) or something.

    Because with G5, when applied properly, there's essentially nothing to buff off. You only have to apply a thin, oil film like layer of it over the glass (using an AP1 applicator), which is only enough to slightly change the window tone (temporarily) to a darker one, then let G5 cure, and finally only remove the high spots - which again, not only look like oily smears, but also come off as easy as if they were. You only need like 5-6 larger drops of the product on the applicator to cover an average size windshield.

    I've been applying G5 to windows and windshields for quite a time now and in various weather conditions, and I've never had a problem with it, never even had to really buff it, like a wax or even like the residue of a cutting or polishing compound left on the surface. The "buffing" phase of G5 is really just wiping the excess stuff off with no pressure needed whatsoever.

    Maybe if you put too much of the product on the surface, so that it became that grayish-brown (which is the color of the original compound/solution in the bottle), then it will be harder to remove the excess or something. Or if you do it in direct sunlight, that might make it also problematic. But when following the directions, preparing the surface properly and not overapplying the product, I can assure you, that there's nothing easier than "buffing off" the excess product residue of G5.

    The "hard" part of using G5 is not that, but applying the product on the glass with the small applicator using overlapping circular motions, because this goes relatively slowly and requires a lot of elbow grease. But even that not so much in terms of strength and power, but in terms of endurance and persistence.
    It's been about 4-5 years since I last used G5, maybe the formula has changed since then. I still don't like having endurance and persistence to apply a glass coating.

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