Long Lasting Sealant/Coating

**bryanviper** · 08-29-2018, 09:26 PM

Hey guys,

So I applied cquartz UK to my moms new car last year however it did not last the full year mostly because she does not maintain it & our winters with all the salt and brime they put on the streets dont help.
So about a month ago I gave the car a good wash/detail since it was not beading water anymore & I applied CarPro Reload thinking it would last around the 6 months it says on the bottle. Well I can already tell its almost gone as beading has dropped off significantly.

So since I dont plan on ceramic coating the car anymore as its just going to be a waste because its not maintained and barely washed I thought I would just use carpro reload however that has not been the best, do you guys think Geyon CanCoat will last longer? or will it be similar results as Reload? I'm looking at something easy/quick to apply when I can every few months that will provide some protection.

Also thinking maybe Collinite 845 but I think Geyon CanCoat would last longer?

Thanks

**Jeremy1976** · 08-29-2018, 09:41 PM

Iron x it and wash with Reset.

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**bryanviper** · 08-29-2018, 09:51 PM

I can try, however I feel like since its been a year the ceramic coating is pretty much gone, not sure about Reload.

Originally Posted by Jeremy1976

Iron x it and wash with Reset.

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**The Guz** · 08-29-2018, 10:32 PM

Are you planning to polish off the current coating to apply one of those other two options?

If it’s not maintained that well maybe a good old sealant is the way to go instead of a coating or semi coating like CanCoat.

**SWETM** · 08-30-2018, 02:29 AM

A good decon wash can revive the coating that's on the car. I would use both IronX and TarX with a couple of washes with Reset. A coating can look done but is often just clogged up with different contaminants if not well maintained. Then when you have cleaned it and see what behavior you have left. Either apply Reload or CanCoat to get it to behave great again. This way you don't need to be polishing it again. And the reload or CanCoat gets a clean surface to be applyied on. Which in either case is needed to have a as clean as possible surface to apply it on to get as long of longevity as possible from them. And a thorough decon wash is less time consuming than a polishing it too. But that is just how I see it. And I like to have the paint clean to get a long longevity from my LSP and don't lock in any contaminants when applying them.

**Ebg18t** · 08-30-2018, 04:30 AM

Another option to look at after deep cleaning the coating is an application of BlackFire Si02 Sealant. There’s been some reviews that is lasts longer & easier to apply than a Reload. The video from Mike had a simple quick application.

BLACKFIRE SiO2 Spray Sealant

Mike Phillips · 08-30-2018, 06:08 AM

Try this...

SONAX Polymer Net Shield - Closest thing to a coating without being a coating

For what it's worth, the MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR as to how long anything lasts on car paint comes down to how the paint is TOUCHED after the application of whatever it is you're using.

This means washing the surface gently with soft clean wash mitts and in the case of a ceramic paint coating, hand washing or touchless washing often.

**bryanviper** · 08-30-2018, 07:25 AM

No I was not going to polish anything off as I dont believe anything is left on the paint from it (or very little) However based on what others have said I should try to decontaminate it and wash it as that may revive it.

Yes was looking at sealants as I dont want to ceramic coat it anymore as it wont be taken care of.

Thanks,

Originally Posted by The Guz

Are you planning to polish off the current coating to apply one of those other two options?

If it’s not maintained that well maybe a good old sealant is the way to go instead of a coating or semi coating like CanCoat.

**bryanviper** · 08-30-2018, 07:26 AM

Thanks I will have to give that a try.

Originally Posted by SWETM

A good decon wash can revive the coating that's on the car. I would use both IronX and TarX with a couple of washes with Reset. A coating can look done but is often just clogged up with different contaminants if not well maintained. Then when you have cleaned it and see what behavior you have left. Either apply Reload or CanCoat to get it to behave great again. This way you don't need to be polishing it again. And the reload or CanCoat gets a clean surface to be applyied on. Which in either case is needed to have a as clean as possible surface to apply it on to get as long of longevity as possible from them. And a thorough decon wash is less time consuming than a polishing it too. But that is just how I see it. And I like to have the paint clean to get a long longevity from my LSP and don't lock in any contaminants when applying them.

**SWETM** · 08-30-2018, 08:06 AM

Originally Posted by bryanviper

Thanks I will have to give that a try.

Ebg18t and Mike Phillips has some great options too if you would try some of them out.

One thing that I forgot to mentioned. Is after the decon if the paint is still rough and has alot of bonded contaminants. It's a judgement call if it's so much of contaminants that you feel it's necessary to be clayed. And how much of the coating is still left is also something to think of. If you do decide to clay it. It's not gonna be so much of coating left if any. But it's fine to apply any LSP over the rest of the coating left. And the claying will get easier to do after the decon. So think that you still have a benefit to decon and see where it gets you. A water spot remover could help you some too if you have that on it. And even if you don't always see the mineral deposits and lime scale it can be something that is spread wide and not always in spots. I don't do a water spot removal on LSP that is in the end. Just mentioned it cause it could be something like that on the paint. And you have the economical to consider sometimes. But if you want to not polishing the car I would be as thorough as possible with the decon wash. And with both TarX and IronX you can sometimes need to apply it twice to the most stubborn sections to get all off the car. That's something you will see. And Carpro TarX and IronX is both in top of the effectiveness they have if compareing them to other brands. Some other brands is also great and in the same league as Carpro.

1. Rinse off the loose dirt and wash with carpro reset.
2. Apply TarX to an area you can handle so it's not drying on the paint. Wipe it off gently with mf towels or if you have a PW use the water pressure to clean it with.
3. Apply IronX and it's like above. Just think that the less water amount on the paint the less it dilute it. And if you dry the car before and you don't need to be thorough. You get the most out of them. Then letting them dwell for the recommended time is also important to the effectiveness from them.
4. Wash with Reset again and dry the car.
5. Test the water behavior and hos it's works on the different panels. Dry and apply the LSP of choice.