Some quick and simple questions from a newbie

[hardhitter]

Hi All,

I've gone through and purchased all the equipment/items I believe I will be using, but had some general questions before I get started.

1. If I'm going to detail a car, do I need to do a strip wash or can I just do my basic wash to prep?
2. After washing the car, if the car has been sitting in the garage for a week or so and hasn't been driven since washing, do I need to re-wash before clay bar? I know some dust has settled on the car since washing, but what would be the best thing to do in this situation? Re-wash it or continue to claybar?
3. Since this is going to be my first time, I plan to take it slow when polishing. Perhaps do 1-2 panels a day. If I do half the car on a weekend and then half the car the next weekend, is there any concern with doing that?
4. My garage is poorly lighted, so if I'm working at night, I won't be able to see much. What are good lights to have for the garage to check for the swirls/scratches and check your progress?

[Jon TDS]

1. A thorough wash should be enough. You can check Mike's video on detailing here:

YouTube

You would want to clay after washing.

2. I would likely grab a QD to make sure no dust before the polish.

3. You would do it by hand or machine? Are you using an AIO or multi step product?

4. Search for T5/T8 LED strips. Cheap and bright!

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

[hardhitter]

So for #2, would I be able to do just a QD with wipe down if the car has been sitting but haven't been driven after a wash? Or would it be safer to just re-wash before claybar?

Step 3 would be with a machine. Using a DA machine. Would be doing multi-step. I have a sample set of CG V32, 34, 36 and 38. From what I've seen on Youtube, seems like it is best to do a 2x2 spot at V36 and then decide from there on if I need to go lower or finish with V38.

[Jon TDS]

I would probably just do a QD wipedown followed by claying.

Ideally right after you wash, you can use the leftover clean car wash solution as your clay lube.

I'm not familiar with CG products but the community here in AG is very helpful. But I don't see any issue doing section by section in different nights. Was asking by hand or by machine because I think you can do more panels if done by the latter within a day.

Sent from my Mi A1 using Tapatalk

[SWETM]

A waterless wash like McKees 37 N-914 or Poorboy's Spray and Wipe. Those leaves nothing behind as glossenhancer or protection and would work great before claying again after a week without any wash and driving it.

The doing of a couple panels at time works great. I think it was Junkman on Youtube that did a series of doing it that way. The tips that I took from it was to overlapping to the next panel you are going to do next time. So if you happens to go over to the panel you did last time if you stop at the edge of the panel. Is not so easy to do if you go over with an inch or two so you have a buffer zone (no pun intended lol).

I have big problems with nervedamage to the lower back and neck spinal cord. So I do cars on a couple of panels a time when my body does'nt don't hold up to do a whole car at the time. Feels better to have a panel fully done with wash and clay and polish and protection at one time. The cars can be driven between those sessions too with out a problem. Just start at the roof and work your way down. It's if you need some kind of decon wash. Then the run down does not come on newly detailed panels.

The CG polishes is not so great but they works. Don't think they uses the great abrasives that is available. So if you have a very soft clearcoat or very hard clearcoat you could get a little trouble with them. It's not so you damage your paint or anything. But the results can be better with other abrasives.

What car are you going to polish?

/Tony

[Rsurfer]

Hi All,

I've gone through and purchased all the equipment/items I believe I will be using, but had some general questions before I get started.

1. If I'm going to detail a car, do I need to do a strip wash or can I just do my basic wash to prep?Basic wash will do.
2. After washing the car, if the car has been sitting in the garage for a week or so and hasn't been driven since washing, do I need to re-wash before clay bar? I know some dust has settled on the car since washing, but what would be the best thing to do in this situation? Re-wash it or continue to claybar?Do a waterless wash
3. Since this is going to be my first time, I plan to take it slow when polishing. Perhaps do 1-2 panels a day. If I do half the car on a weekend and then half the car the next weekend, is there any concern with doing that?You'll be fine
4. My garage is poorly lighted, so if I'm working at night, I won't be able to see much. What are good lights to have for the garage to check for the swirls/scratches and check your progress?

If you don't want to spend much money, just get a led head lamp

[hardhitter]

A waterless wash like McKees 37 N-914 or Poorboy's Spray and Wipe. Those leaves nothing behind as glossenhancer or protection and would work great before claying again after a week without any wash and driving it.

The doing of a couple panels at time works great. I think it was Junkman on Youtube that did a series of doing it that way. The tips that I took from it was to overlapping to the next panel you are going to do next time. So if you happens to go over to the panel you did last time if you stop at the edge of the panel. Is not so easy to do if you go over with an inch or two so you have a buffer zone (no pun intended lol).

I have big problems with nervedamage to the lower back and neck spinal cord. So I do cars on a couple of panels a time when my body does'nt don't hold up to do a whole car at the time. Feels better to have a panel fully done with wash and clay and polish and protection at one time. The cars can be driven between those sessions too with out a problem. Just start at the roof and work your way down. It's if you need some kind of decon wash. Then the run down does not come on newly detailed panels.

The CG polishes is not so great but they works. Don't think they uses the great abrasives that is available. So if you have a very soft clearcoat or very hard clearcoat you could get a little trouble with them. It's not so you damage your paint or anything. But the results can be better with other abrasives.

What car are you going to polish?

/Tony

I will probably start on my 2012 Mazdaspeed3 as it'll be my first one. Once I get the hang of it, I'll carry it over and do my 911 Turbo