Has anyone compared BFs SiO2 spray sealant to Carpro Reload

[rlmccarty2000]

RLM, my top needs for topping with a SiO2 over non-coatings is: 1) Gloss 2) Adding nice water behavior 3) Extra protection 4) Extending LSP durability (by being sacrificial). In that order, but they are all pretty close.

Sorry, I know your question applied to topping coatings, where my #2 would become a non-factor, but it’s given my preference of LSP (sealants and waxes).

When/how do you determine the SiO2 is gone?

[acuRAS82]

When/how do you determine the SiO2 is gone?

As a topper, I could only guess by when the gloss/look has gone, and in this situation I’m not too concerned about whether the topper has gone as the car should still bead based on the topper OR LSP.

If I was to use as a stand-alone like in your tests, I would go by when the beading has 80-90% stopped across the most tired panels (no sense in only having part of the car protected while part isn’t). At this point, I wouldn’t feel good about assuming my paint is protected “good enough” any longer.

In other words, I’m hesitant to call a protection dead as long as it is still beading in some way, even if not as tight or uniform beads as right after application.

Disclaimer: yes, I know that beading is not a 100% accurate indicator that protection still exists, but this is where I let experience and common sense guide me (i.e. if the paint looks dull, faded, oxidizing or something just looks wrong, it would raise a flag).

[BudgetPlan1]

I’ve done some testing on 12 different SiO2 toppers and my question for everyone is when do you say a product is dead or ready for reapplication? Is it when beading deteriorates where water runs instead of beads or is it when the beads are not tight? Or maybe when the gloss deteriorates? Other?

Can't say for certain if the product is 'dead' or merely covered up by the rigors of daily use, but I'd generally say 'something' needs to be done when the paint is not exhibiting normal characteristics, or what I've come to be used to as normal.

Hopped in wife's car today, about a 45 minute freeway drive in rain. Car had excellent beading when I first got in but as soon as we hit freeway, beads/water were not running off hood in the same manner as they usually do. I suspect the entire vehicle is grimed-out as windshield was not displaying decent water behavior either and its coated with something, H2GO I believe.

Car has been sitting outside without being washed in about a 1 1/2 months (hey, I've been busy!); rain, leaves, blowing dirt...point being if I washed it, the normally great water behavior will likely return...it always has. When the topper is truly dead, it won't be the beading that tells me, it'll be how water is behaving on the hood while under way immediately after a wash.

Second question: Why use a topper over a coating? To save the coating? To protect the coating from waterspots? To add gloss? Can’t keep your hands off of your car? Other?

I'll use a booster for a variety of reasons:

1. I'm a sheep and thusly cannot think on my own but rather follow the directions of the 'shepherd', in this case the coating mfg who recommends doing so..."Bleet, bleet...I am a marketers dream!"

2. I'm lazy. My favorite booster works very well as a drying aid and it makes drying easier and quicker, and adds some 'protection' to boot. What is it protecting? Heck, I dunno...perhaps the "Maybe it doesnt really help but certainly can't hurt" philosophy is in play here.

3. Who am I kidding; what am I supposed to do after a wash? I know I, like many others, toss about 'longevity' as a key attribute for any LSP-ish product when, in my case, I can't make it more than 1 or 2 washes without rubbing something into the paint. Whether it does actually improve gloss, or any other pleasing characteristic is pretty irrelevant because I *think* it does.

I think these are valid questions and until we can set values and reasons it is near impossible to have a meaningful discussion on SiO2 toppers. It’s kind of like saying Product X lasts 6 months only to see an asterisk next to it that says “only if vehicles is stored indoors”.

I could be digging too deep but we all want to know which product will last the longest or have the most gloss. We can’t depend on manufacturers claims as they are in it for dollars and I don’t think Consumer Reports loves us. Lol.

I think a true evaluation of the absolute NEED for products like this may be best left to the pros; not because they are experts but perhaps they have a structure in place that is more conducive to letting things run their full course. For myself, I'm just too curious to leave well enough alone for a long period of time on my personal cars.

However, on the fleet vehicles I've coated at work that get done and then remain untouched for 6-7 months, 15-20k miles...well a bit different story emerges. I judge those by how clean they look consistently and the quality coatings DO maintain that without the use of boosters past the initial application. But then what is that telling me? Is it telling me the coating itself maintained that look it is it telling me the topper I applied initially actually lasted 6 to 7 months. I suspect the former but suppose the latter could be true as well.

Crap, I just typed myself either in a circle or into a corner...dunno which. Can I sum it up with "I dunno, I just do it for fun"?

[Desertnate]

2. I'm lazy. My favorite booster works very well as a drying aid and it makes drying easier and quicker, and adds some 'protection' to boot. What is it protecting? Heck, I dunno...perhaps the "Maybe it doesnt really help but certainly can't hurt" philosophy is in play here.

This is my number one reason for using a topper/drying aid.

I have to wash my vehicles outside without any shade. I ALWAYS have at least a few water spots which neccessitates a drying aide or post-wash wipe down. If it is going to happen anyway, the product might as well be one which adds a little short-term protection to help out the LSP.

[TNMIKE46]

Just wondering if anyone has used BF Si02 over CQ UK 3.0? Just wondering because of all the comments about streaking with Reload, especially on black cars.

[rlmccarty2000]

BF SiO2 will work fine. Problems with Reload (or any spray) are usually related to over application or contaminates on the surface. Application of the two is different. The BF needs to be sprayed liberally onto the surface and wiped with a damp MF towel and Reload should be sprayed onto a damp towel and applied. Don’t ask me why but they work better this way.

Personally I would skip both and use IGL Ecocoat Premier. It costs more but it actually lasts much longer.

[glen e]

I moved to blackfire from reload. It just spreads easier.

[glfnaz]

As RLM said, BF SIO2 should work fine. It's the best at not streaking, at least for me. His 2nd comment about IGL Premier may also be spot-on. I've begun testing it and it is possibly even easier to apply, and seems to exhibit longer durability. Also it has zero dangerous chemicals in it. It is pricey, buy hey, I do this for kicks and it's a hobby. The manufacturer considers it an entry level coating, not just a 'topper'. My thanks to BudgetPlan1 for offering me a generous sample of IGL Premier for testing. It may be the best freebie I ever scored.

[AllenK]

I'll take this another step further,and throw in the new Wolgang Uber SiO2 spray in the mix. What about it? Anybody tried the WG yet??

[rlmccarty2000]

You might as well throw PBL Coating Booster in the ring as well. Lol