Questions Regarding Paint Thickness Readings, Orange Peel, and "Denim Pads"

[SydBarrett]

Hi all,

I've been doing some research with respect to the topic in the title but would like some added input before I proceed with anything.

I own an '03 e39 BMW that I've generally been meticulous in my care toward. I learned to use a Meguiar's DA polisher a few years ago and have since utilized the DA Microfiber Correction System, twice, on the whole car with amazing results.

Recently, though, the clear coat on the rear quarter panel started fading away, inching upward toward the rear passenger window, along with the entirety of the top of the trunk lid. I had it resprayed professionally at a local shop. The end result is great, but not optimal (I'm very particular with details); there is a lot of orange peel everywhere said respraying has been done. A couple or so weeks ago, I decided to research if there's any way orange peel can be removed from automotive paint without sanding, and that's when I came across the wondrousness of CarPro's denim pads. For those who aren't aware what these are, see here and watch this clip: YouTube

Through this process I learned of electronic paint thickness gauges, their importance in the auto detailing world, and purchased one.

The disparity between the readings of, say, my hood, which, to my knowledge has factory paint and has been subjected to, as mentioned, a full treatment of Meguiar's DA MF Correction System a couple of times, and the newly-painted trunk lid are stark.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but 1 mil = 25.4 microns of material. The readings of various parts of the hood range from 2.4 mils to 1.5, while the trunk reads 9.4 mils.

Assuming my conversion of mils to microns there is correct, here's my first question for the experts: Is 9.4 mils enough to warrant the safe application of this orange peel removal via a denim pad from Carpros coupled with Meguiar's M105 or M100 compound and a DA polisher like the one I also own from Meguiar's (assuming, of course, I follow proper guidelines laid out in the thread linked above and other similar threads)?

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My second inquiry has to do with my continued usage of Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction System in the future to remove swirls from the paint.

I realize that 1.5 mils, such as what parts of my hood register, doesn't amount to much paint. Should I proceed with caution in the future in seeking to remove swirls from such areas of the hood?
How many microns, or mils, of paint does the DA MF Correction System generally remove?
If using this system is indeed to risky on such thin material, what other system or combination of materials from Meguiar's (or others) would you folks recommended that effectively removes swirls from the clear coat but is very minimally abrasive?

[rlmccarty2000]

I’m only going to address the use of microfiber pads and an aggressive compound. You should only have to get aggressive once with your paint. After you have corrected your paint back to new condition you shouldn’t have to aggressively compound the paint again if your wash methods are correct (barring something major). You should have to do a yearly Polish with something less aggressive to repair the wash induced swirls and minor scratches. As you know clear coat is thin and the repeated use of microfiber pads and harsh compounds will wear it away fairly quickly, so my advice is to get the paint corrected and protected where you won’t have to compound it.

I’ll leave the use of denim pads to someone with more knowledge. Welcome to the forum! There is a wealth of knowledge here with just a search.

[SydBarrett]

I’m only going to address the use of microfiber pads and an aggressive compound. You should only have to get aggressive once with your paint. After you have corrected your paint back to new condition you shouldn’t have to aggressively compound the paint again if your wash methods are correct (barring something major). You should have to do a yearly Polish with something less aggressive to repair the wash induced swirls and minor scratches. As you know clear coat is thin and the repeated use of microfiber pads and harsh compounds will wear it away fairly quickly, so my advice is to get the paint corrected and protected where you won’t have to compound it.

I’ll leave the use of denim pads to someone with more knowledge. Welcome to the forum! There is a wealth of knowledge here with just a search.

Thank you, sir! Your response to my second inquiry is just about what I had surmised; but here's my question: what combination of less aggressive polishing products would you recommend to emlpoy in removing wash-induced swirls and such, because you're right, those are exactly what I'm referring to?

[Finick]

[QUOTE=SydBarrett;1573660but here's my question: what combination of less aggressive polishing products would you recommend to emlpoy in removing wash-induced swirls and such, because you're right, those are exactly what I'm referring to?[/QUOTE]

I’m far from an expert, but in my experience if we’re just talking light wash induced marring, id assume any finishing polish would get the job done for you.

Perfecting Cream, HD Polish+, M205, S30+, Hyper Polish, or whatever your favorite finishing polish happens to be.

You could also try just using D301 on a foam polishing/finishing pad.


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[SydBarrett]

I’m far from an expert, but in my experience if we’re just talking light wash induced marring, id assume any finishing polish would get the job done for you.

Perfecting Cream, HD Polish+, M205, S30+, Hyper Polish, or whatever your favorite finishing polish happens to be.

You could also try just using D301 on a foam polishing/finishing pad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I presume these would all be compatible with a DA polisher.

Also, other than the D301, which is a wax, I'm also assuming those other ones you list don't cut into the clear or if they do, it's very minimal.

[Sizzle Chest]

If your readings are correct, and I would double check them, 9.4 mils is plenty of clear for the process you wish to do. Err on the side of caution and take some readings throughout your process to make sure all is going well. Keep us posted.

[DBAILEY]

I liked using the Carpro velvet pads more than the denim. It will take a bit longer, but they were much easy to use. They really leave nice finish too. The velvet pads won't leave a hazy finish

[SydBarrett]

If your readings are correct, and I would double check them, 9.4 mils is plenty of clear for the process you wish to do. Err on the side of caution and take some readings throughout your process to make sure all is going well. Keep us posted.

Thank you, will do.

I liked using the Carpro velvet pads more than the denim. It will take a bit longer, but they were much easy to use. They really leave nice finish too. The velvet pads won't leave a hazy finish

Awesome! During my research I did learn of the velvet pads as well. I think I will purchase a set of both and start the process with the less aggressive velvet ones.

[SydBarrett]

Here are a couple of quick shots I took of the car after picking it up from the shop a month or so ago. I'll have detailed photos of the orange peel removal process in due time:

http://oi66.tinypic.com/jggmt2.jpg

http://oi67.tinypic.com/ax1w8x.jpg

[JustJesus]

Should I proceed with caution in the future in seeking to remove swirls from such areas of the hood?

How many microns, or mils, of paint does the DA MF Correction System generally remove?

I'm not being a jerk when I say this: Try to focus more on PREVENTING swirls from getting on there in the first place. I got that wonderful advice from a gentleman (Accumulator) on another forum.

Believe it or not, the amount of microns removed depend on your technique. If you move slow and use heavy pressure, you could potentially remove more material than if you moved slightly faster and with lighter pressure.

Sizzle Chest made a nice suggestion: measure throughout your process