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Re: Rust repair
For rust, the quicker the you get to it, the better. It will spread very quickly if you don't act.
So what you need to do it remove all the rust. I suggest you use a metal brush on a drill or angle grinder. This is very quick. Otherwise a Dremel could also be used.
Once all the visible rust has been removed, make sure that there isn't any hidding under paint surrounding the area. If you think there is, remove the paint and get that area to metal too.
Once all that has been done, the use of acid will remove the microscopic rust remaining. There are several products you can use: Rust converters, hydrochloric acid (acid based wheel cleaners contains this), or vinegar.
When you apply the acid, let it work for a while. 15 minutes is usually enough. The metal will change color under the assault of the acid. Make sure to rinse off completelly and dry it off completelly. You can use a hair dryer, heat gun or blower. Just make sure no water or humidity remains.
Then you just apply a etching primer to seal the surface and give your paint something to binds to.
If the area is not visible, you can use any paint you want, if it is visible then I would get color code matching paint from an automotive paint store.
Finish with a clear coat.
Dry time for primer, paint and clear coat will be written on the cans.
Usually you want 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of paint and 3 coats of clear. The first coat is usually lighter than the following ones.
Once a vehicles starts to rust, it is very hard to prevent it from rusting more even if you do things correctly. So if you decide to keep it, you will likelly have to do this again in the future.
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Re: Rust repair
First, I'd see if you could get that covered under the Manufacturers warranty, if its not that old. Two, look into a product called Por-15. The advise above is pretty spot on and after you get it cleaned up, Pro-15 will help stop it dead in its tracks from spreading.
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Re: Rust repair
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Unfortunately, the rust warranty is over. I think I'm going to buy a replacement hood from the junk yard that's the same colour and rust free. This should kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I'll get a niceer hood for the van, and I'll be able to use the old one to practice with my new GG6!! I may still try to do the paint repair to see how the DA polisher reacts to fresh paint vs factory paint. I'll still have to fix the doors, but that should be a bit easier since it's not as visible.
Graham
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Super Member
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Super Member
Re: Rust repair
Originally Posted by atgonzales
+1 on Por15...
I take it that Por15 is a rust inhibitor, is it also a primer?
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Re: Rust repair
Originally Posted by Rsurfer
I take it that Por15 is a rust inhibitor, is it also a primer?
I have the same question. Does it replace both the rust converter step and the primer step?
Graham.
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Re: Rust repair
Check out their website. It does convert and prime in one step, however, you should clean the area as good as possible. If its exposed to sunlight it needs to be top coated.
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