Do you prime each pad before use when correcting or polishing?

[desidetailer]

I watched this a while ago... see the video after 4:20
YouTube

A little OT:-
Do you guys use water mild spray on a panel in between passes?

[Finick]

I’ve never been a fan of priming the pad.

I understand the purpose, and the theory behind it seems sound, but the only technique that seems worthwhile to me is to spread the product around, and then use compressed air to blow the majority of product out (I believe AMMO nyc has videos doing this, if I’m not mistaken) so that the pad isn’t saturated right out of the gate.

I can’t bring myself to do such a thing, because it seems like a huge huge waste of product that isn’t exactly cheap (in some cases) to begin with.

Jason rose also shows a “lazy mans way of priming the pad” in a dated video showcasing the megs DAMF system, and more recently in an obsessed garage video.

In the OG video he simply puts product onto his pad, and holds the polisher in one spot until the rotation kicks in.

It just makes sense to me that simply running the pad over product will disperse a film of abrasives across the face of the pad, leaving it primed after just 1-2 sections, tops. How could it not?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Eldorado2k]

I watched this a while ago... see the video after 4:20
YouTube

A little OT:-
Do you guys use water mild spray on a panel in between passes?

Ok, so to the argument that more polishing cream is reducing the cut, let me use extremes to demonstrate why it is not possible. So the extremes would be :
1. A pad with no product at all on it
2. Not using a pad on a machine but some kind of silk material with no cut at all covered in polishing creme
So by your account, the pad with no polish on it would have the most cut. And I think that it the complete opposite; a media with no cut would cut just fine with only the polishing creme.

@15:00 min. of that video, Kevin Brown says “It’s just loaded that pad so quickly and encompassed the abrasives so rapidly, [that] it can’t cut”

-Which is exactly why I prefer to not prime the pad and not risk premature saturation, but instead allowing it to prime itself within the 1st few seconds of running the polisher.

[dlc95]

You might be correcting 100% of the surface with only part of the pad being covered in polish, but that does not mean that 100% of the pad is doing work. Those are 2 separate things. If you don't prime your pad, when you are done doing a section, have a look at the pad. You can be almost certain that you will have areas with either no product on it or very little product on.

I know cause for the first 3 years of doing polishing, I did not prime with product. I sprayed with either water or quick wax then applied compound or polish on 4 spots. Now I prime completelly.

Foam pads self prime as they're being used. This happens via capillary effect of the liquid permeating the foam cells.

[dlc95]

Ok, so to the argument that more polishing cream is reducing the cut, let me use extremes to demonstrate why it is not possible. So the extremes would be :
1. A pad with no product at all on it
2. Not using a pad on a machine but some kind of silk material with no cut at all covered in polishing creme
So by your account, the pad with no polish on it would have the most cut. And I think that it the complete opposite; a media with no cut would cut just fine with only the polishing creme. Otherwise, why use it at all? If the pad was doing the cut, why not use a dry pad or just a pad that has been sprayed with water?

As for the argument that not covering the pad with product works just fine and produces good result, I am not saying it is not. What I am saying is that it will take more time to achieve the same result. In the case of doing jewelling polish, it might even be desirable, since you want to cut very lightly. In the case of heavy correction, I think that not priming is making the process longer than it needs to be.

It depends on the volume of liquid used. If too much liquid is used, the foam hydroplanes over the abrasives, thus reducing cutting. Too much liquid, and the cell wall loop can't as effectively "dig" at the paint. Or in the case of closed cell pads, can't mash, grind, or work the abrasive into the paint as effectively.

A bare foam cutting pad can mar up the paint without lubrication of the polish. Also, it doesn't cut enough without the aid of the abrasives.

If we look at Rupes method for treating foam pads, we find a minimal amount used at the onset. Four drops, and reload with two. Because the surface area of a foam pad is significantly reduced, less product is needed to cover it.

The full face priming technique is traced back to KBM. He started doing that after working with Meguiar's on the DAMF system, where that technique was found beneficial for microfiber. Coating all the strands in liquid made full use it the immense surface area of those pads.

However, one must take into account that:
1. Microfiber grabs and holds, foam does not.
2. Foam can self prime via capillary effect, microfiber might, but to a lesser degree. (Todd Cooperider doesn't like priming his microfiber pads.)
3. Kevin uses a very minimal amount of liquid to prime, often blowing out, or wiping off the excess.

In my experience / opinion, a similar result can be had by placing a few drops of product on the pad, turning the tool on, and letting it operate for a moment before polishing.

[desidetailer]

Any of you guys use a water spray in between passes?? I was watching a video where kevin brown said it helps by giving more working time, less dust but what I feel is won't the pad be damp after a panel or two which results in more use of pads.

[Eldorado2k]

Any of you guys use a water spray in between passes?? I was watching a video where kevin brown said it helps by giving more working time, less dust but what I feel is won't the pad be damp after a panel or two which results in more use of pads.

I don’t, unless I run into a situation where I’m getting abnormal results and it calls for it.

Keep in mind that Kevin Brown and the rest of the guys in that video always have compressed air when they’re buffing, which prevents any problem with pads becoming too damp to work with.

[fightnews]

To be honest I cut a few corners, because as you already know there’s no way I could’ve hit every corner of the vehicle with a 7” pad. So I skipped the sides of the sunroof, the front bumper, the area around the rear license plate, the pillars, and bearly went over the side mirrors super quik.

Nice you got the sunroof. I wish I got that I'm jealous. Yeah when I work on the car I do it in sections it would take way to long to do the entire care as thoroughly as I do it. For me the main part is the hood, front fenders, doors and that side panel next to the rear doors. Thats the main section. Then the roof I do separate. Also the front bumper and rear of the car at different times. Since the front bumper is brand new I just did it with 2500 then essence last weekend. I might do the rear this weekend

[Eldorado2k]

Nice you got the sunroof. I wish I got that I'm jealous.

Sunroof on the Cadillac CTS... The Kia doesn’t have a sunroof, nor have I ever polished it with an abrasive polish or compound.

[fightnews]

So flooding the polishing section with abrasives is what you relate to as paint correction? Ever hear of the term overkill? Wait, don’t answer that...judging by most/all of your forum responses..

Nice straw. I clearly said I spread the polish extremely thin you added in the flooding part. Ever heard of underkill? Wait, don’t answer that...judging by the fact I've never noticed your posts...