Cquartz UK?

[Jeremy1976]

Going to be trying out this coating. Who has used it and what are your thoughts? Seems like the reviews and research I have found on it say it's a solid product. I will be using Reload to maintain it. Do most spray waxes play well with it? Such as D156?

Thanks guys.

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[parshisa]

I've recently used it on my Civic and I found it to be not the most user friendly coating. It was flashing instantly and I had a hard time getting it off the paint. Very very grabby. although the final result was awesome - looks amazing and beads like crazy. I've topped it off with reload and to maintain and as a drying aid I use reload/ech20/water mix.

I've also recently used regular CQ (TiO2) and was amazed how it is easy to work with. Longer flashing time and much easier to remove. No streaking at all. Levels out with no issues. Hard to tell if it looks any different than CQUK but it is very glossy that's for sure. Beading and sheeting action is no different then CQUK. Same maintenance routine. Hope this helps.

Oh, and these two cars I've coated was my first experience with the coatings and carpro in particular. Turned out to be not as bad as I though it will be. Just take your time and follow instructions. Cheer

[MarkD51]

I've only ever used UK as a paint coating. I had very good luck with it first time out. Temps and humidity that I applied was about 74 degrees, and about 35-40% relative humidity which was what could be considered sort of high humidity for southern New Mexico at the time. was also fighting the Rain Gods that day, but made it OK.

I would say some tips and guidelines I may offer would be applying within a acceptable temp and humidity range.

Applying this coating is something you cannot dilly dally with. My personal technique was to break any panel into smaller sections, let's say a fender, I did not try to coat the entire fender, even though it was a relatively small panel compared to the other panels on the rest of the vehicle. I broke the fender into two sections.

Apply in a cross hatch pattern, left-right, then up-down insuring full coverage per section, and I waited no longer than 2 minutes to come behind and wipe and level, I used 2 Carpro Orange Boa MF Towels to level for the final wipe. The initial application with Carpro Foam Block and MF Suede Sheet wrapped around looked flawless, and almost thought "do I really need to wipe to level?", but I did, not bucking the orthodox method of application.

Onto the next small section and one must insure overlapping. again, repeat, wipe, and onto the next section.

You must work fast, but don't work hazardly or sloppily, or excessively applying, insure you've applied completely on a panel, and I did mask prior to coating, this way I knew I wasn't running over onto something else, or not getting absolute complete coverage on the panels.

I did the roof and hood first, and if a trunk is present, again wise to do these horizontal and higher panels first before coating A-B Pillars, Fenders, Doors, Rear Quarter Panels. In other words I worked from top to bottom.

I cannot stress enough the high importance of very good lighting. Portable lighting on a stand, and plenty of extension cord to ease movement of lighting sure helps greatly. Having a clean cart or stand where you can place the product and applicators, or having a friend present to help would also be a help.

I positioned the lighting so that I felt it offered the best angles to showcase the very surface of the paint. And I wisely inspected the paint at various angles as I applied and wiped to level.

After wiping any given panel don't even think about coming back and touching and testing for dryness or to make some minor correction, even in some inconspicuous area to test if dry until waiting at least a good hour's time. You will smudge the application. To err on slightly longer initial cure time if possible is highly advisable.

Hope some of what I wrote helps you. Best of luck!

[Jeremy1976]

I've only ever used UK as a paint coating. I had very good luck with it first time out. Temps and humidity that I applied was about 74 degrees, and about 35-40% relative humidity which was what could be considered sort of high humidity for southern New Mexico at the time. was also fighting the Rain Gods that day, but made it OK.

I would say some tips and guidelines I may offer would be applying within a acceptable temp and humidity range.

Applying this coating is something you cannot dilly dally with. My personal technique was to break any panel into smaller sections, let's say a fender, I did not try to coat the entire fender, even though it was a relatively small panel compared to the other panels on the rest of the vehicle. I broke the fender into two sections.

Apply in a cross hatch pattern, left-right, then up-down insuring full coverage per section, and I waited no longer than 2 minutes to come behind and wipe and level, and I used 2 Carpro Orange Boa MF Towels to level. The application looked flawless, and almost thought "do I really need to wipe to level?", but I did, not bucking the orthodox method of application.

Onto the next small section and one must insure overlapping. again, repeat, wipe, and onto the next section.

You must work fast, but don't work hazardly or sloppily, or excessively applying, insure you've applied completely on a panel, and I did mask prior to coating, this way I knew I wasn't running over onto something else, or not getting absolute complete coverage on the panels.

I did the roof and hood first, and if a trunk is present, again wise to do these horizontal and higher panels first before coating A-B Pillars, Fenders, Doors, Rear Quarter Panels. In other words I worked from top to bottom.

I cannot stress enough the high importance of very good lighting. Portable lighting on a stand, and plenty of extension cord to ease movement of lighting sure helps greatly. Having a clean cart or stand where you can place the product and applicators, or having a friend present to help would also be a help.

I positioned the lighting so that I felt it offered the best angles to showcase the very surface of the paint. And I wisely inspected the paint at various angles as I applied and wiped to level.

After wiping any given panel don't even think about coming back and touching and testing for dryness or to make some minor correction, even in some inconspicuous area to test if dry until waiting at least a good hour's time. You will smudge the application. To err on slightly longer initial cure time if possible is highly advisable.

Hope some of what I wrote helps you. Best of luck!

In no way would I say such was OCD, such does aid in insuring a flawless application with no regrets after

Thank you! It will be done in my heated shop. I have great lighting,ceiling and mobile Scangrip Multimatch.

Looking forward to testing it out!

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[Jeremy1976]

I've recently used it on my Civic and I found it to be not the most user friendly coating. It was flashing instantly and I had a hard time getting it off the paint. Very very grabby. although the final result was awesome - looks amazing and beads like crazy. I've topped it off with reload and to maintain and as a drying aid I use reload/ech20/water mix.

I've also recently used regular CQ (TiO2) and was amazed how it is easy to work with. Longer flashing time and much easier to remove. No streaking at all. Levels out with no issues. Hard to tell if it looks any different than CQUK but it is very glossy that's for sure. Beading and sheeting action is no different then CQUK. Same maintenance routine. Hope this helps.

Oh, and these two cars I've coated was my first experience with the coatings and carpro in particular. Turned out to be not as bad as I though it will be. Just take your time and follow instructions. Cheer

Thanks for your input!

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[MarkD51]

Consider as well a product such as CQuartz DLX for Plastic Trim, Wheels. Great stuff!

[lane5515]

I've recently used it on my Civic and I found it to be not the most user friendly coating. It was flashing instantly and I had a hard time getting it off the paint. Very very grabby. although the final result was awesome - looks amazing and beads like crazy. I've topped it off with reload and to maintain and as a drying aid I use reload/ech20/water mix.

I've also recently used regular CQ (TiO2) and was amazed how it is easy to work with. Longer flashing time and much easier to remove. No streaking at all. Levels out with no issues. Hard to tell if it looks any different than CQUK but it is very glossy that's for sure. Beading and sheeting action is no different then CQUK. Same maintenance routine. Hope this helps.

I completely agree with parshisa. I've used both CQ UK and CQ TiO2 and prefer TiO2 for ease of use and looks. I wipe down with a mixture of distilled water + ECHO2 + Reload after each wash and the beading and sheeting is fantastic.

[WillSports3]

I prefer UK over TiO2 because I find UK is just tougher, and maintains the hydrophobics and beading for longer. I don't mind that it's grabby since the paint feeling grabby doesn't mean anything. In fact, technically, the grabbiness is what you want since at the microscopic level it's not perfectly smooth but has tiny little ridges that is what causes the perfectly round beads and what not. I would not put reload on top of it. Leave it be. UK beats out Reload for hydrophobics hands down. I might be the only one that doesn't use Reload on top of Cquartz coatings that I Know of, but that's just my experience. I wouldn't bother with any spray waxes on it or anything else, just use Reset and use something that leaves nothing behind as a drying aid like N914 or something like that. UK is pretty easy to use. Don't use a lot, and make sure you really work it into the panel. Then wipe off right off, and wipe multiple times, and have proper lighting.

Edit:
I didn't mean to use Reload to wash it, changed to Reset.

[joleyred]

I've used Carpro UK, and several others. Carpro is superior to the other coatings I've used and I found it easy to use. I followed their directions strictly. So far , I think they have great products that hold up well.

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[Wade_660]

I much prefer the original to the uk version


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