How to strip wax

[Eldorado2k]

I'm curious if mckee37 jeweling wax has enough bite to strip
I know meguiars wash plus+ doesn't..apparently leaves a surfactant behind

About the only things I haven't tested was TFR which I'm sure it won't..and solvent like Denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, paint thinner (same as mineral spirits)and laquer thinner.

Non acid wheel cleaner, fallout remover, tar/adhesive remover, Dawn dish soap, citrus degreaser, APC, IPA,bug remover, bird sh!t remover etc doesn't do anything

What does IPA leave behind that initially takes away beading yet [according to what you’re saying] only temporarily masks the beading?

[SWETM]

I'm curious if mckee37 jeweling wax has enough bite to strip
I know meguiars wash plus+ doesn't..apparently leaves a surfactant behind

About the only things I haven't tested was TFR which I'm sure it won't..and solvent like Denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, paint thinner (same as mineral spirits)and laquer thinner.

Non acid wheel cleaner, fallout remover, tar/adhesive remover, Dawn dish soap, citrus degreaser, APC, IPA,bug remover, bird sh!t remover etc doesn't do anything

What are you trying to strip?

At the OP. Have you done the baggie test on the cars? Do you have any iron remover products that has bleeding effect? If not do you have a wheel cleaner with the bleeding effect. Why I'm asking is if it was a long time ago you did a chemical decon. You might consider to ad a iron remover step before claying. Test with a bleeding effect product on a small area behind the front wheel and see how much it's bleed. If you get bleeding dots I would do a iron remover like ironx. That breaks down the corrosion around the imbedded iron particle and loosen with either a pressure wash rinse or a rinse from the hose. And if it's not gets washed away the clay have easier to pull it away from the clearcoat.

Then like others says the mck360 and speed will take care of what is left. Do you have McKee's 37 n-914 Rinseless Wash? If you have that I would do a rinseless wash after the claying. To get as much claylube away before the polishing with the AIOs. And you can use with a paint prep strength also. It' not nessecery but if you have it use it.
Good thing that you take your time and good luck.

[Mike@ShineStruck]

What are you trying to strip?

At the OP. Have you done the baggie test on the cars? Do you have any iron remover products that has bleeding effect? If not do you have a wheel cleaner with the bleeding effect. Why I'm asking is if it was a long time ago you did a chemical decon. You might consider to ad a iron remover step before claying. Test with a bleeding effect product on a small area behind the front wheel and see how much it's bleed. If you get bleeding dots I would do a iron remover like ironx. That breaks down the corrosion around the imbedded iron particle and loosen with either a pressure wash rinse or a rinse from the hose. And if it's not gets washed away the clay have easier to pull it away from the clearcoat.

Then like others says the mck360 and speed will take care of what is left. Do you have McKee's 37 n-914 Rinseless Wash? If you have that I would do a rinseless wash after the claying. To get as much claylube away before the polishing with the AIOs. And you can use with a paint prep strength also. It' not nessecery but if you have it use it.
Good thing that you take your time and good luck.

I got tired of people on the forums saying this strips wax that strips wax..I just simply started tests to shut up the dawn soap guys..but also to perhaps find a short cut in case something did work(acid bath)

Real simple test really, just need water bottle for pH balanced and hi alkaline products and some paste wax..and a knife with serrations to produce salt/pepper sized wax.

I used autogylm HD paste in my test videos which has man made polymers .. did it this way to get real time visual of chemical reaction if any.

Spraying some things in an LSP panel will just mask beading/sheeting properties till fully evaporated which is what happened when I tried vigorously rubbing meguiars wash plus+ on trunklid.(this has micro abraisives which didn't strip)

As for why certain products masked lsp properties..I don't remember but Ron Katchum replied to one of my posts stating why ..I'd have to dig it up to find the info

[hollerstiltner]

Here’s a blast from the past about stripping some durable sealants.

Sealant Test: PowerLock (+/-) BlackHole, Wolfgang DGPS, & BlackFire WD

[TTQ B4U]

I have tried searching but canthe seem to get an answer. I cureentry have wax brand A on my vehicle but it's almost gone and now I want to try wax brand B.. sinse they are different I don't want to layer, I want to start fresh.. how? I see you all saying how you took off your wax to add anotber, but I don't see anyone saying how.
Is there a way to get back to start without using a d/a?

Well worth a light polish to not only remove whatever is left of the wax but if you've had said wax on there long enough to diminish, then you would be best served by also removing the road grime, etc. and freshen up the gloss with said light polish.

That's what I would do.

[Rmd]

Below is a definitive thread on lsp stripping. The OP is an actual chemist in the detailing industry.
For some reason links aren’t highlighting for me right now. You can search for the thread called lsp stripping by PiPUK if the below doesn’t work.

LSP stripping

[SWETM]

I got tired of people on the forums saying this strips wax that strips wax..I just simply started tests to shut up the dawn soap guys..but also to perhaps find a short cut in case something did work(acid bath)

Real simple test really, just need water bottle for pH balanced and hi alkaline products and some paste wax..and a knife with serrations to produce salt/pepper sized wax.

I used autogylm HD paste in my test videos which has man made polymers .. did it this way to get real time visual of chemical reaction if any.

Spraying some things in an LSP panel will just mask beading/sheeting properties till fully evaporated which is what happened when I tried vigorously rubbing meguiars wash plus+ on trunklid.(this has micro abraisives which didn't strip)

As for why certain products masked lsp properties..I don't remember but Ron Katchum replied to one of my posts stating why ..I'd have to dig it up to find the info

I was just wondering. And that kind of synthetic wax is hard to remove as a sealant is. A pure organic wax I think is esier to remove and if a lsp has been in the weather elements and the wear and tear of a time. It's easier to break down after that time. A quality lsp stands up good to most used chemicals in car cleaning. The outside elements is more harsh to them over time than a chemical resistant lsp. And the way and wash media products touching the paint also. The same with some surfactans that cloggs cause it's harder to rinse them away and some cheaper spray waxes and QD and car soap with waxes that alter the lsp water behavior very much so you think it has worn of.

Some cleaner wax has strong and alot of solvent in them and that is why they can clean up a paint really good. And with a da and abrasive from the pads and the abrasive in them. It would take a really strong lsp to stand up to it. The thing I wonder about is the residue from the old lsp have the possibility to interfear with the new lsp longevity and quality. And if it's worth it to a aio like 360 that has a long longevity to do a finish polish first to get the old lsp and road film of the paint first with a paint cleanser polish or a finish polish. The thing I will do is to clean the pad god between sets and switch pads when it's builds up residue on them. That's also why I think a chemical decon and claying as through as possible is benefit to the pads. But to get it all of I think almost impossible before the AIO. Then a paint cleanser polish can be of benefit if you have few pads at hand when AIO polish.

[fightnews]

I got tired of people on the forums saying this strips wax that strips wax..I just simply started tests to shut up the dawn soap guys..but also to perhaps find a short cut in case something did work(acid bath)

Real simple test really, just need water bottle for pH balanced and hi alkaline products and some paste wax..and a knife with serrations to produce salt/pepper sized wax.

I used autogylm HD paste in my test videos which has man made polymers .. did it this way to get real time visual of chemical reaction if any.

Spraying some things in an LSP panel will just mask beading/sheeting properties till fully evaporated which is what happened when I tried vigorously rubbing meguiars wash plus+ on trunklid.(this has micro abraisives which didn't strip)

As for why certain products masked lsp properties..I don't remember but Ron Katchum replied to one of my posts stating why ..I'd have to dig it up to find the info

Big deal you aren't proving anything going by beading since clean clear paint can still bead water

[Mantilgh]

From the above linked PipUKs Stripping LSP thread, bottom of page 5.

Beading occurs on a clean clearcoated surface, or any surface that is free of contaminants for that fact. So to say that the IPA brought back the LSP is completely false.

That is an exaggeration of reality. Yes, a clean and freshly polished surface is not totally hydrophillic. However, most of the time when someone demonstrates this, they will have previously used a polish which is oil heavy and which has left a residue of oil. In practice, every time I have seen a freshly polished surface bead water like a freshly applied sealant - it is the oil from the prep which is responsible.

So, yes, a clean surface will not be totally hydrophillic but the example I have presented is very strongly hydrophobic. No matter how much I were to try polishing this surface, without the sealant on it, it would never be that hydrophobic. Moreover, the sealant in question actually modifies the appearance such that the area applied to appears darker that the surrounding (we are chemical formulators, not photographers so capturing this is just not plausible). None of the tests I have shown managed to remove that which strongly supports my findings. If you look at the second part of the test, the beading was recovered with repeated rinsing, it did not need IPA.

Moreover again, if a totally clean surface beads water - why do the vast majority of detailers, pro or enthusiast, use this characteristic to decide if an LSP is present or not?

[Mike@ShineStruck]

Big deal you aren't proving anything going by beading since clean clear paint can still bead water

I wasn't going g by beading, did you read my post lol