This is my first post though ive been an avid reader and AG customer.
I have a 88 Mustang GT in Cabernet Red (maroon) that my dad bought in 1990. The paint is 100% original and shinny as its been garaged 85% of its life and "waxed" periodically.
Close inspection shows some water spots and what looks like microscopic craters. I want it to look as good as possible as it is a 58k mile survivor.
What an amazing car. My first brand new car was an 89 LX 5.0.
Your lucky to have this in the garage
Based upon the picture of the paint looks pretty good, thus a gorge of number seven may not be required… Also number seven is a non-abrasive polish so it will not doing much for a cratered water spots. However I always used #7 on my old LX.
My suggestion for this car would would be to look at Maguire’s new all in one (166), Black Fire All in One, HD speed or McKees 360, followed up with Pinnacle Souveran paste wax.
This is my first post though ive been an avid reader and AG customer.
I have a 88 Mustang GT in Cabernet Red (maroon) that my dad bought in 1990. The paint is 100% original and shinny as its been garaged 85% of its life and "waxed" periodically.
Close inspection shows some water spots and what looks like microscopic craters. I want it to look as good as possible as it is a 58k mile survivor.
Any ideas how to address these issues?
Was thinking #7 followed by #26.
Thanks in advance
First - welcome to the forum. The store is a great place to get products... the forum is where you get helpful and accurate information.
Second - Here's your pictures inserted, it's too cool to only show as a thumbnail.
Here's the link to your free gallery where I uploaded your picture to. You pretty much need a computer to use the gallery.
The #7 rub down technique is really for chalky white oxidized paint. If the paint on this Mustang has a good shine then apply the #7 AFTER you do some type of correction work with a compound, polish or cleaner/wax and before you seal with a finishing wax.
For correction work, because this is the ORIGINAL paint and it's going to be thin (from the factory), I'd recommend to stick with a safe medium cut polish and avoid compounds. The hit it with the #7 and then the #26.
If you're using Meguiar's, then get their Ultimate Polish and apply using some brand of orbital polisher with "foam polishing" pads. Not foam cutting, not foam finishing, but right in the middle, foam polishing pads.
After you wash, clay and the polish the paint, hand apply or machine apply the #7, wipe off immediately and then hand or machine apply the #26.
I'd do everything by machine if this car were in the AGO garage.
Do you have a polisher?
Cool car. Is it for sale? I know someone looking for this version of Mustang.
Thanks for the quick responses!! I'm going to get it outside and take some better pics to post soon.
Mike, I don't have a polisher yet but I've been eyeing several for awile. Any suggestions on for the beginner? I really don't want to mess the paint up and I'm not limited to megs products. I usually don't get attached to vehicles but this ones a keeper for sentimental reasons. I remember my first ride in it at 8 y.o! Thanks again
I can tell you that I detailed an '89 Ford Bronco in that same color and it was a single stage paint. I used Meguiars 105 with an orange LC pad. My pad turned red, which tells me that this combo is too aggressive, but the results were amazing. I've done 30+ cars in the past 6 months and this one was the most dramatic before/after. Unfortunately I didn't get any before pics.
I can tell you that I detailed an '89 Ford Bronco in that same color and it was a single stage paint. I used Meguiars 105 with an orange LC pad. My pad turned red, which tells me that this combo is too aggressive, but the results were amazing.
It's normal to pull color when working on single stage paint.
The secret is to not pull too much color. Just like when working on clearcoats, the secret is to not pull or remove too much clearcoat.
Factory paint is thin, here's my article on that topic,
I've done 30+ cars in the past 6 months and this one was the most dramatic before/after.
Unfortunately I didn't get any before pics.
Yep.... heard that so much I wrote an article that encourages people to get the before shots. The thing is... AFTER you buff out the car you can never go back in time and get the before shots, so how can you prove the car was in bad shape? You can't. Except for your word.
Either someone removed the reflective orange stripe around the lower fairing, or that's actually a 1990.
I had a '89 GT convertible in that same color. Mine was horribly oxidized when I bought it after spending most of its life outside. But with a basic one-step product (can't remember what now, since it's been over 15 years) the paint really came alive again. I don't think you'll have any problem getting it looking great. That paint is somewhat soft so you won't need anything too aggressive to clean it up. Megs M205 or Ultimate Polish with a medium foam pad would probably do the job if you wanted to stay with Megs products.
Meguiars M80 is great on single stages as well with a little bit of cut. Duragloss 501 is fantastic as well on single stages though it is more of a chemical cleaner but it really brings single stages alive. Both have a lot of oils although not as much as #7.
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Originally Posted by DoubleH
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