Moving backward from "start with the least abrasive option".

[goalieman24]

So when you start with the least abrasive option and it doesn't quite get the job done, which do you prefer to change first? Same product with a rougher pad? Same pad with a rougher product? Or is it just situational?

Noob to machine polishing, but this site has been great!

[dcjredline]

I dont have a standard answer. I just pick one, it doesnt really matter much. Dont over think it.

[Paul A.]

I look very carefully at what the first attempt did. If it removed some of the scratches I might try the same product on the next aggressive pad. If that second test didn't do much better I change to a more aggressive product and the first pad. Then, if needed, a more aggressive product on a more aggressive pad.

That's 4 tests to hopefully find whats going to work best on this paint today kinda thing. Most times it takes me 2 or 3 tests on paint I haven't worked before. My goal is to find whats going to just level the scratches and no more.

The key for me continues to be that very first test with what I guess will work. That tells me more than anything else how easy or hard the clear is.

[custmsprty]

I generally go up to a more aggressive pad first. Then if that doesn't get it I'll go back to the prior pad, a fresh one, and go up to the next level in aggressiveness.

For example, so like from orange to yellow, then back from yellow to orange in the LC or B&S flat pad line.

[TTQ B4U]

So when you start with the least abrasive option and it doesn't quite get the job done, which do you prefer to change first? Same product with a rougher pad? Same pad with a rougher product? Or is it just situational? Noob to machine polishing, but this site has been great!

If It's a car that I think just a polish will help, I usually start with an orange pad. Depending on the product, they finish out beautifully. If needed, I'll drop on a wool pad (Flex 3401 here) or MicroFiber if on a non forced rotational buffer. After that however, a second step will be needed to polish it out to perfection. Not much though.

On really bad finishes I simply start with compound and wool and plan for a 2 step. Makes no difference really as you're not going to remove any more clear coat than is needed so compound and wool with 3-4 light passes or 5-6 higher pressure passes with a foam pad, both are the same in terms of clear removal. I prefer the former as I can blast through defects quickly and the finishing polish step goes very quickly.

[Desertnate]

I generally go up to a more aggressive pad first. Then if that doesn't get it I'll go back to the prior pad, a fresh one, and go up to the next level in aggressiveness.

For example, so like from orange to yellow, then back from yellow to orange in the LC or B&S flat pad line.

Same here. The only real reason for that is I already have one bottle readily at hand for the test and simply don't want to juggle both pad and a bottle at the same time.

[LSNAutoDetailing]

I know I do the same. Pad first, then product. IIRC, Mike Phillips stated he moves up in pad first, then product.

I know when we scuffed & buffed a 1948 Jeepster at AGO, after we first did the scuff (trizact 5000 sanding disks) we then used Flex 3401's, Orange Cutting Pads and Sonax EX 04-06 medium cut polish. We still saw some tiger striping from the scuff&buff so we hit the vehicle with a flex rotary and the same Sonax EX-04-06. Then went back over the jeepster again with Flex DA's and the same EX 04-06.

So, at the end of the day, 2 different tools, each with differing degrees of cut (both tool and pad) and same product throughout. Amazing results:

[dlc95]

Either pad, or both.

The Rupes system makes it very easy, but I'm doing a LOT of work with their Keramik Fine Cut polish, and yellow foam and microfiber pads.

I have the entire line of pads and polishes, but those get used the most, followed by the Blue microfiber/Zephir.