How many passes to take off a coating?

[hoyt66]

"GTechniq Crystal Serum Light is the consumer grade version of GTechniq’s strongest coating, GTechniq Crystal Serum. GTechniq Crystal Serum is only available to GTechniq accredited detailers that have been certified to use it. In fact, if applied incorrectly, GTechniq Crystal Serum can only be removed from paint with 1,500 grit sandpaper.

GTechniq Crystal Serum Light is the consumer version of that same product – enjoy the rock-hard protection without the pressure of improper use. GTechniq Crystal Serum Light brings 80% of the professional Crystal Serum to the table."

So its NOT the "Light" that can be only removed by sandpaper. It is the the professional grade.

[TTQ B4U]

Say you are using jescar finishing polish and a black finishing pad?

Are we talking closer to 1 pass or 7 (full cycle)?

IMO I'd use a white pad. Black pads have no cut.

As noted earlier, you'll likely see the difference, more so on dark paint. Coated areas tend to be darker thus on my pure black, I can make one pass with a light polish and remove Cquartz or McKee's 37 coating as I've done it. very clear difference.

[mcarter]

"GTechniq Crystal Serum Light is the consumer grade version of GTechniq’s strongest coating, GTechniq Crystal Serum. GTechniq Crystal Serum is only available to GTechniq accredited detailers that have been certified to use it. In fact, if applied incorrectly, GTechniq Crystal Serum can only be removed from paint with 1,500 grit sandpaper.

GTechniq Crystal Serum Light is the consumer version of that same product – enjoy the rock-hard protection without the pressure of improper use. GTechniq Crystal Serum Light brings 80% of the professional Crystal Serum to the table."

So its NOT the "Light" that can be only removed by sandpaper. It is the the professional grade.

I meant that to be more clear in my post. I did specify Crystal Serum- i.e. the pro version, in my sandpaper reference. This was to meant to correct the statement earlier in the thread that some manufacturers claim it can only be removed by sandpaper when in truth the sandpaper is only required in the case of misapplication as you have more clearly stated.

Thanks

[RPM_BR]

The fact is that you'll never be completely sure that you removed 100% of the old, cured coating unless you sand it. Especially if the coating to be removed is the new breed of top notch coatings, where the coating adhesion to the clearcoat is almost like a fusion to it.
If you fail to remove it completely before recoating it, you can run into problems like water spots type of marks, that can be seen from a 30 to 60 degree angles, behing the recoated surface, as mentioned is some threads here at AGO.
I always try, before getting into sanding, the combination of rotary, wool and Menz 300, as the last resort of removing it.
It's crucial asking what type of coating was applied in beforehand, and if the answer is CSL, CS, CQ Finest, Modesta, Opti Coat Pro Plus or any coating that was applied by an accredited detailer, I would sand it just to be sure. And properly charge for it.
Let's say that it is the collateral effect of going in that route, semi-permanent, strong adhesion coatings.
Bsst regards.

[RippyD]

^^^ If this is the case and even the best coatings need to be replaced every 2-3 years, that seems like a lot of sanding for the lifetime of car and an lot of additional effort or expense. You'll never know how much clear is coming off when you said. If you use 2000 or higher your're probably not removing much. But that still seems like a lot of sanding on the paint.