Critique my technique

[Mike Phillips]

Just to note, the Meguiar's Gold Glass Car Wash doesn't foam very well, lots of uniform tiny bubbles.

I remember NXT car wash did create lots of long lasting suds as a normal car wash but I've never used it in a foam gun.

The best soap I've used so far is the McKee's Xtreme Car Wash Shampoo which of course used to be the DP line.


Also, if you haven't already, read my article on using a foam gun. It has LOTS of pictures and a WARNING so you don't have to get a fender painted. $$$$$


How to use a foam gun by Mike Phillips







VERY IMPORTANT

Now this is very important. That's why I made all the letters of the heading for this section in all capital letters.

The Pistol Grip Sprayer is attached to the Foam Mixing Head via a spring loaded quick-release coupling. The coupling on the sprayer is the female side and the coupling on the Foam Mixing Head is the male side.

To attach the sprayer, use two fingers like I show in the picture below to pull back the exterior plastic case around the spring loaded quick-release.




Get the idea?

Lots of pictures showing you how to get the most out of your foam gun and avoid getting a fender re-painted.

[fly07sti]

From what I gather is you just want some info as to make washing easier/quicker and some quality protection. I recommend you get a mitt like the Nanoskin and a can of Finish Kare hi temp. The Nanoskin will last a lot longer than clay and is a much faster process. This will give you that smooth paint feeling and your towels won't feel grabbing against the paint. Then put a coat of FK on and you'll be well protected. Also, as others have said, Iton X or similar product will help with the decon step.

[honda99ex]

Just to note, the Meguiar's Gold Glass Car Wash doesn't foam very well, lots of uniform tiny bubbles.

I remember NXT car wash did create lots of long lasting suds as a normal car wash but I've never used it in a foam gun.

The best soap I've used so far is the McKee's Xtreme Car Wash Shampoo which of course used to be the DP line.


Also, if you haven't already, read my article on using a foam gun. It has LOTS of pictures and a WARNING so you don't have to get a fender painted. $$$$$


How to use a foam gun by Mike Phillips

What a coincidence! I just spent the morning watching the above video and several more of your other videos.
Very informative!!!

I've only used the gun once but the quality/volume of suds wasn't an issue.
I guess my question is how long does the soap mixture last? I have the quart version whereas I believe in the videos you have the half gallon. Should the quart last me one time around say a late model Toyota 4Runner SUV? I admit I was gawking but I only got through about 3/4 of the car and before I could un-tangle the hose the concoction ran out....

[honda99ex]

From what I gather is you just want some info as to make washing easier/quicker and some quality protection. I recommend you get a mitt like the Nanoskin and a can of Finish Kare hi temp. The Nanoskin will last a lot longer than clay and is a much faster process. This will give you that smooth paint feeling and your towels won't feel grabbing against the paint. Then put a coat of FK on and you'll be well protected. Also, as others have said, Iton X or similar product will help with the decon step.

Yes you nailed it. I have a DD work truck that takes some abuse. I got to admire my first ONR rinseless wash for 1 night before it got killed with dust and bird poop again. I know it's a losing battle but I want to try and protect the paint as best I can. And I can use the tips for my personal vehicle which sees similar farm type environments though with less frequency.... I am going to try what you mentioned, the Finish Kare sounds like exactly like a type of product i need to try!

[invested_detailing]

I plan on following your method outlined except at

3. I was going to try a Nanoskin - medium then fine.... Thoughts on this vs. claying?

4. Do you think I can do something like Optimum GPS? I only have my hands, no equipment. I want something that works simply (on/off easily and not subject to heavy cure times/ideal conditions needed). Or should I go directly to a sealant? Once I get to the car to a cleaner state then I can do more maintenance more frequently to avoid heavy work each time...

A nanoskin will work just as well as the clay bar plus it has the added advantage of being able to be dropped on the ground without having to throw it away. From what I've gathered about the vehicle this step is gonna be the most time consuming up front. The larger surface area of the nanoskin should help cut some of that time. Then once all the contaminants are removed and your wax is applied regular claying should take no time at all.

Optimum GPS will work in your situation. Obviously if you want maximum effectiveness of the polishing aspect a polisher is recommended with different cutting/polishing pads. But if you're just trying to maintain the vehicle's current level of paint GPS is fine.

[honda99ex]

From what I gather is you just want some info as to make washing easier/quicker and some quality protection. I recommend you get a mitt like the Nanoskin and a can of Finish Kare hi temp. The Nanoskin will last a lot longer than clay and is a much faster process. This will give you that smooth paint feeling and your towels won't feel grabbing against the paint. Then put a coat of FK on and you'll be well protected. Also, as others have said, Iton X or similar product will help with the decon step.

Thank you to all who have replied and all those in the future who want to chime in! Very insightful and helpful for this noob.
I have a huge order coming from Autogeek and am stoked. Ended up choosing IronX, DG 901/902, Nanoskin Sponges, BF TPS and BF CS.
I realized from the DD part of the spectrum I based a lot of my purchase decisions ultimately on price and ease of use, given that it seems that most quality products will do the job.
fly07sti - I really liked your rec of the FK hi temp and it probably is best suited to what I asked for but I know when I'm 4-5 hours into the detail I'm really not going to feel like applying the FK. From what I've read the BF CS provides obviously less durability than the FK but is super simple to apply with minimal cure time.

Some final detail questions
1. Before I IronX should I dawn strip the car first? One car hasn't been washed in years so I was just going to knock the big pieces off. The other car I just ONRWW last week.. I know Mike in one video says he puts it straight on dirty cars but his definition of dirty is still in the clean range on my scale!
2. I know the IronX is safe for the glass but is it recommended to do the glass as well? Or maybe just certain glass like the windshield more likely to have contaminants vs side glass?
3. One of the cars has slight surface rust on the door sill. Mask with tape or Ill be ok?