Got rid of my Overpriced Karcher PW and bought a Cheap Ryobi & Upgraded it... way better setup!!

[bean438]

Nothing wrong with an Elantra.

He’s selling a stainless steel cart for the kranzle. 400 bucks, lol. That’s absolutely insane. Nonetheless he’s pretty detailed on his videos.

I like the shorter garden hoses he sells. Does anyone know where I can buy shorter lengths for power washer hook up, and bucket filling?

[spazzz]

Nothing wrong with an Elantra.

He’s selling a stainless steel cart for the kranzle. 400 bucks, lol. That’s absolutely insane. Nonetheless he’s pretty detailed on his videos.

I like the shorter garden hoses he sells. Does anyone know where I can buy shorter lengths for power washer hook up, and bucket filling?

Flexzilla at 3', 5' or 10'

[Calendyr]

Nothing wrong with an Elantra.

He’s selling a stainless steel cart for the kranzle. 400 bucks, lol. That’s absolutely insane. Nonetheless he’s pretty detailed on his videos.

I like the shorter garden hoses he sells. Does anyone know where I can buy shorter lengths for power washer hook up, and bucket filling?

Last summer I replaced my 100 foot commercial grade garden hose for a 100 foot collapsing hose. I never made a better investment in this business! instead of fighting with a hose that weights about 60 pounds and wasting a lot of time rolling it in after each use, this hose weights about 1 pound and I can fold it in about 1 minute.

For filling buckets, if I was fixed location, I would purchase a cheap hose and cut it the lenghts I wanted. I really don't understand him testing metal hoses and the likes, spending 100$+ on something 2 feet long that will just fill buckets... but to each his own.

Carts can be really expensive. I use a foldable one (since I am mobile) and I think I spent about 50$ on it. But I have seen many carts over 200$. I guess the more expensive ones are much more sturdy and will last longer.

As for his car comparisson, I told him that was a bad exemple because a Porche GT3 has many major advantages over an Elantra, where as from one pressure washer to the next, it's hard to see a lot of benefits. But maybe I wrong, I will only know when does the same testing on the Kranzla.

[SWETM]

Would be fun if compared Sunjoe spx9004pro-spx9006pro to kränzle PW. The Sunjoe has about the same specs as some of the kränzle PW. So there should be the comparison in quality if the Sunjoes leaves the claimed specs. 1300psi and 2.0gpm is great for cleaning cars as the Sunjoe has.

The biggest difference I see from where I'm from is your 110v. We have 240v and you can get a more powerfull electric motor on those voltage. I have a Kärcher K7 Full Control Premium Flex with the specs 2600psi 2.6gpm. Which is as high I can get on a 16amp fuse. Even if I have a 440v outlet in the garage where I live. It not so common to have that. So if I where to move to another place without it I would be getting another PW. I had a little Nilfisk PW with 1600psi 1.2gpm I think it's specs where. The difference to the K7 is huge. This is also because of the winter environment I live in where you can be needed a little more cleaning ability from the PW.

Then it's also how you see on how you will use your PW. If you are to use it as your garden hose and rinse off with it. Then you are fine with a smaller specs PW. But if you are going to be useing to clean with the water pressure from the PW. Then IME you need to have a higher gpm from the PW than the smaller ones gives you. This is to also shorten the time it takes to clean every bit of surface with the water pressure from it. More than half of the time it saves me now after the upgrade to the K7. So it's much of what expectations you have and the use of a PW. When you have figured that out it's easier to know which tier you will be looking into. If going with a kränzle or another well build PW. It's all about the quality of it and not performance as there are options to it. But kränzle is pure quality and build like a tank. And if you want to buy 1 PW and be done for your lifetime then invest in a kränzle unit. Sure a kränzle can break too but there is parts to get and replace instead of buying a new one.

Just some thoughts about the kränzle and PW in general. Remember we all have different needs and expectations as in alot of things. For me I did not have the budget for a kränzle PW with specs that where to compete with the K7 specs. I would recommend when you buy a PW. To test it out on some car washes and other uses you might have. Then evaluate what you would want to upgrade. The PW hose or the gun or adding a swiwel or quick connections and maybe all of this or maybe one or few of them. Cause they cost a lot to upgrade so it's not easy to just buy it all for some. And if budget is no concern and you know you will be useing the PW. Get a kränzle unit and you will be satisfied with the quality of it and it will last many many years.

[bean438]

Got all my fittings, quick connects, adaptors, etc. hose I can pick up anytime locally.

Still trying to wrap my head around the kranzle. Yes it’s “better”, per say but if I can buy 7 sunjoe spx3000’s for the same price. Sunjoe says they will last 300-500 hours. Let’s call it 300 hours. I can’t wash at home in Winter, and summer time let’s say I use the PW for an hour a week. (Overestimate). The sunjoe “should” last about 11 years which means I’ll be long dead before I spend more money replacing the sunjoe rather than just buying the kranzle.

[bean438]

Got all my fittings, quick connects, adaptors, etc. hose I can pick up anytime locally.

Still trying to wrap my head around the kranzle. Yes it’s “better”, per say but if I can buy 7 sunjoe spx3000’s for the same price. Sunjoe says they will last 300-500 hours. Let’s call it 300 hours. I can’t wash at home in Winter, and summer time let’s say I use the PW for an hour a week. (Overestimate). The sunjoe “should” last about 11 years which means I’ll be long dead before I spend more money replacing the sunjoe rather than just buying the kranzle.

[Fenwayfan77]

Question for those that might have customized their PW's and have experience with various nozzle sizes (orifices).

I'm looking at the Ryobi 1800 / 1.2 GPM PW. Using a Size 2 Orifice, that puts my output PSI at around 1440. Moving to a size 3 orifice, that drops my PSI to around 640. Going with a 2.5 orifice, then i'm looking at 922 PSI. Has anyone messed around with pressures in this range and have a preference? If so, why? I've heard various arguments to keep the PSI around 1000 because it's "safer", but I haven't seen too many explanations/scenarios proving either a ceiling or floor mark, where going above "X" amount of pressure/PSI is dipping into danger territory for the vehicle, and going below a certain mark lacks efficiency in a cleaning power sense. Thanks in advance!

[SWETM]

Take the 2.0 nozzle orifice tip. Hold your hand 2-3 feet away from the nozzle tip. Start spraying and move your hand to the nozzle tip and stop or go back a little when it's starts to hurt your hand. The distance you have there is a safe PW distance. And remember that different degree nozzle tip has different power too. So to be ultra safe test all of the ones you have. I always have been carefull with the distance between the nozzle tip and the vehicals when useing a PW. And also not useing a nozzle tip that has a lower degree than 15. So 15-40 degree nozzle tips is what I use when cleaning vehicals. And never use a turbo nozzle tip on a vehical. Be carefull if you have paint damage and trim and rubber that are loose. Those I go around if I want to be safe to not damage it more.

If you use your PW to clean with the water pressure from the nozzle tip. And not just rinse as you do with a hose. Then 1000psi and 1.2gpm is not so effective to clean with. I would want all of the pressure from the PW it can handle. And if you feel it hurts your hand on the distance you have the 2.5nozzle orifice. Just move back until it does not hurt. And you get a wider spread of the water pressure to clean more surface faster. Then IMO it's a very big safe distance measure to use the hurting hand test. A vehical can stand up to a lot of pressure and flow without damage anything. But in some places you have weak spots. Already damage paint and some edges and trim and rubber seals is some. But just paint can handle a lot IME. I would say as a general safety I have is to not have the nozzle tip any closer than 2" from the vehical. Then you can use any PW with a 15-40 degree nozzle tip and be fine if you use some common sense. Even with a higher flow 2.0gpm and above I feel like the 1000psi is too little pressure. And you also needs to be holding the nozzle tip closer to the paint that way too. So a high pressure and flow from the PW and adjust the distance farther away where you see how it cleans enough for you.

Hope it helps you some to get and see what works for you in your situation.

/ Tony

[Calendyr]

Take the 2.0 nozzle orifice tip. Hold your hand 2-3 feet away from the nozzle tip. Start spraying and move your hand to the nozzle tip and stop or go back a little when it's starts to hurt your hand. The distance you have there is a safe PW distance. And remember that different degree nozzle tip has different power too. So to be ultra safe test all of the ones you have. I always have been carefull with the distance between the nozzle tip and the vehicals when useing a PW. And also not useing a nozzle tip that has a lower degree than 15. So 15-40 degree nozzle tips is what I use when cleaning vehicals. And never use a turbo nozzle tip on a vehical. Be carefull if you have paint damage and trim and rubber that are loose. Those I go around if I want to be safe to not damage it more.

If you use your PW to clean with the water pressure from the nozzle tip. And not just rinse as you do with a hose. Then 1000psi and 1.2gpm is not so effective to clean with. I would want all of the pressure from the PW it can handle. And if you feel it hurts your hand on the distance you have the 2.5nozzle orifice. Just move back until it does not hurt. And you get a wider spread of the water pressure to clean more surface faster. Then IMO it's a very big safe distance measure to use the hurting hand test. A vehical can stand up to a lot of pressure and flow without damage anything. But in some places you have weak spots. Already damage paint and some edges and trim and rubber seals is some. But just paint can handle a lot IME. I would say as a general safety I have is to not have the nozzle tip any closer than 2" from the vehical. Then you can use any PW with a 15-40 degree nozzle tip and be fine if you use some common sense. Even with a higher flow 2.0gpm and above I feel like the 1000psi is too little pressure. And you also needs to be holding the nozzle tip closer to the paint that way too. So a high pressure and flow from the PW and adjust the distance farther away where you see how it cleans enough for you.

Hope it helps you some to get and see what works for you in your situation.

/ Tony

Ya, don't try this with a turbo nozzle or a 0 Degre nozzle, you will dig a hole in your hand

[Fenwayfan77]

Take the 2.0 nozzle orifice tip. Hold your hand 2-3 feet away from the nozzle tip. Start spraying and move your hand to the nozzle tip and stop or go back a little when it's starts to hurt your hand. The distance you have there is a safe PW distance. And remember that different degree nozzle tip has different power too. So to be ultra safe test all of the ones you have. I always have been carefull with the distance between the nozzle tip and the vehicals when useing a PW. And also not useing a nozzle tip that has a lower degree than 15. So 15-40 degree nozzle tips is what I use when cleaning vehicals. And never use a turbo nozzle tip on a vehical. Be carefull if you have paint damage and trim and rubber that are loose. Those I go around if I want to be safe to not damage it more.

If you use your PW to clean with the water pressure from the nozzle tip. And not just rinse as you do with a hose. Then 1000psi and 1.2gpm is not so effective to clean with. I would want all of the pressure from the PW it can handle. And if you feel it hurts your hand on the distance you have the 2.5nozzle orifice. Just move back until it does not hurt. And you get a wider spread of the water pressure to clean more surface faster. Then IMO it's a very big safe distance measure to use the hurting hand test. A vehical can stand up to a lot of pressure and flow without damage anything. But in some places you have weak spots. Already damage paint and some edges and trim and rubber seals is some. But just paint can handle a lot IME. I would say as a general safety I have is to not have the nozzle tip any closer than 2" from the vehical. Then you can use any PW with a 15-40 degree nozzle tip and be fine if you use some common sense. Even with a higher flow 2.0gpm and above I feel like the 1000psi is too little pressure. And you also needs to be holding the nozzle tip closer to the paint that way too. So a high pressure and flow from the PW and adjust the distance farther away where you see how it cleans enough for you.

Hope it helps you some to get and see what works for you in your situation.

/ Tony

Tony. Thanks for your response. It's greatly appreciated. I apologize, but I'm not exactly able to specifically discern what you are trying to state. I may be completely mistaken, but are you attempting to denote that if the PW output pressure (PSI), obtained via any particular combination of GPM and orifice chosen, is painful to one's hand, then it may be dangerous to the vehicle's paint? I may be confused with your response, and you may very well not be saying this at all. You also might be trying to discuss two separate topics or a combination of both (1 being personal safety, and 1 being safety of the vehicle's paint). I'm not quite sure. If you are discussing personal safety, I appreciate the warnings. I'm actually familiar with pressure washers, but haven't used them yet for a vehicle wash. Looking forward to it though! If you are in fact attempting to say that if it's safe for one's hand, it's safe for the paint, then I would venture to say that is an accurate statement. However, I would politely argue that it is not very scientific in nature. Ha. Some clear coats are harder than others, some people's pain thresholds vary dramatically, etc. I know most people utilize the 40 and 25 angled tips or a combination thereof.

I'm more interested in learning if anyone has done an analysis on the most efficient/effective range of output pressure (PSI) for vehicle cleaning purposes. I have read about the "cleaning unit" calculations (Flow X PSI) and the preferred range for vehicles. However, the articles I have read about Cleaning Units didn't necessarily hit upon the recommended upper PSI limits, especially when using specific orifices to adjust the output. Logically speaking there has to be an upper limit. Obviously, the lower you go, the safer it is, but the less effective it is going to be, which ends up being a fruitless endeavor. One of your statements is a perfect example of the great variation in responses related to this topic. You mentioned that you don't think that 1000 PSI is very effective for cleaning. However, I've also heard that some people like to dial in as close to 1000 PSI as they can, which is their preferred pressure setting. Trust me, if using a size 2 orifice, which gives me a 1440 PSI using the Ryobi 1800 / 1.2 GPM PW, is safe, I'd use that all day long and not worry about it. However, there is the other side of the argument, which might explain why some like to use the lower PSI, despite it not being as effective in initially spraying off the caked on grime, which is flow rate. I've heard some say that GPM flow rate is the more important measure, but that doesn't exactly sound like the best theory as well. With a higher GPM I might be able to push the water and loose dirt off the car quicker, but if much of the dirt hasn't yet been "unstuck" then that's somewhat of wasted effort.

With that said, here are some example numbers: By using a size 3 orifice with the PW referenced above, I would get a 2.01 GPM flow rate, but only 640 PSI. In contrast, if using the size 2 orifice, the flow rate drops to 1.34 but the PSI is sitting at 1440. Or, one could split the difference and go with the 2.5 orifice, where the flow rate is 1.68 and the PSI is 922. Now obviously, the pressures drops as flow rate increases and vice versa. My initial personal thought is like yours, in that I'd rather a higher PSI to really remove the tough grime from the paint/wheels, etc. than more flow that just pushes things around. However, I don't want to push it too far with the PSI hitting the mysterious safe "upper limit", which is why I posed the initial question. There are too many pressure washer threads to comb through. I've dug into a few, without actually finding someone specifically discussing what I'm asking about. I may be blind however, and skimmed right over it, which is probably the case Ha.