Here is a problem to solve!

[Agent6er]

I have a new car being delivered on the 6th, and have a bit of a predicament:
The soonest my go to shop can install PPF is when I won't be in town, so I have had to schedule it for the first few days of August. After the PPF cures I will coat it(this will be my 5th coating, so not a rookie)

I of course want to get started on it ASAP, so I am going to Iron decon, synthetic clay, and polish it on day one.

The paint needs to be clean and bare for the PPF in August.

I want to drive it(only on nice days and only on roads that won't chip the paint) but I still want some form of protection, of course. But protection that won't last. Car will be garaged the rest of the time

So to recap:
Iron decon, clay, polish this week
Protection for a month (?)
Strip wash/ IPA removable in a month without needing to polish again for PPF and a coating.

Should I just leave it bare, or use the UQD? I really don't want to have to do two full preps in one month if I can avoid it. (Car is factory fresh so I really hope there isn't a reason for a multi step correction.)

Ruling out the products I already have that won't fit the requirements, because they will last too long or won't come off easy after a month, I think I'm down to Meguairs Ultimate Quick Detailer.

Alternate option: drive it, prep it before I leave town, and it sits in the garage until PPF. Then sits until Ceramic.

[The Guz]

Alternate option: drive it, prep it before I leave town, and it sits in the garage until PPF. Then sits until Ceramic.

Do this. Your paint won’t fall off if you don’t put anything on it if you want to drive it.

[chefwong]

Own or lease. Full wrap or front ?

IMO, it's really not an option if considering PPF. Straight from the dealer to the shop.
You can get a chip 5 miles in or 500 miles in. It's really the luck of the draw. The whole doing PPF is just for that...

[Paul A.]

I'm with The Guz on this. If it were mine...prep and sit. Quick wash before PPF and done.

[Agent6er]

Alternate it is.

This is going to break my tradition of putting a sealant/wax on the day I get the car.

I'm not very worried about stone chips, I know my area enough of where I can go and where I shouldn't.

I've had that bottle of UQD for years, but I actually bought it right before I started putting cquartz on my cars, So it's just been sitting there waiting for a use. It will continue to sit.

[Coatingsarecrack]

Alternate it is.

This is going to break my tradition of putting a sealant/wax on the day I get the car.

I'm not very worried about stone chips, I know my area enough of where I can go and where I shouldn't.

I've had that bottle of UQD for years, but I actually bought it right before I started putting cquartz on my cars, So it's just been sitting there waiting for a use. It will continue to sit.

What’s the new ride?


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[TTQ B4U]

I've been working with PPF for decades. You can prep it and leave it. Contrary to what many say, you can ceramic coat it before PPF. I do it all the time. Makes for easier removal. I pull the PPF off my personal cars 1-2 times while owning them to replace it due to road rash. The adhesive will bond just fine provided the prep mix for the PPF is mixed properly.

[DUBL0WS6]

If it was me, anything that goes under PPF would be body shop safe products, that way there isn't an issue down the road.

[Agent6er]

It was run through a contact tunnel wash at some point in its 14 miles life before it got to me. or else some idiot washed it

I just started correcting it, after a foam/pressure rinse/ Iron Decon/pressure rinse, hand wash, clay, hand wash.

I did a test run and my first try got great results, (green pad/M205) , but I pulled out some M110 for a few spots: where it looks like the transport driver rubbed against it to get in, a scratch the dealer cover up with the dealer badge, and part of the quarter. I Decided to use the M110 on any rough spots I could find.

Not this is where is gets weird, on the quarter panel.
There are a few grey specs sandwiched in between the metallic coat and the clear. The is one tiny black spec that actually raises the clear to a peak on it. These are here to stay, but It's stuff only people like us would ever find.

Stuff I corrected on the quarter:

There was a grey swirl. Couldn't really feel it, and two quick passes M110 with a uro Fiber took it out, it may have been some chemical that just etched it grey I guess.

There were what looked like orange peel "wrinkles" below one of the specs, where the sheet metal is concave bending behind the rear window and meeting the wheel area. The M110/Uro leveled it out in 5-6 passes.

After compound area picture for reference #1


After

Before


And I had a brief moment of panic when I saw my pad before I remembered it's called Tintcoat for a reason.

What’s the new ride?

The car, before I started any correction 2023 Radiant Red ZL1

[opie]

A question for your process. Why wash after you clayed before you started paimt correction?

Seems like an unnessesary step

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