Beginner trying to get a good black finish.

[Mallowpuff]

I got a 7.50 off coupon for AutoZone so I'll probably pick the stuff up today.

I'm really tempted to pick up an HF DA buffer.. I just don't know if I'd be able to use it. I mean do you just buff by hand where it's to hard the reach with the buffer? Won't the finish look different where you do it by hand?

[Toolhead]

I got a 7.50 off coupon for AutoZone so I'll probably pick the stuff up today.

I'm really tempted to pick up an HF DA buffer.. I just don't know if I'd be able to use it. I mean do you just buff by hand where it's to hard the reach with the buffer? Won't the finish look different where you do it by hand?

heres my thoughts.. not saying im an expert on DA.. but ive seen some lower end tools...

Anything cheaper than a PC DA wont polish the paint...or last...

The way i save time and money is by buying the right tool and high quality tool..so i get the performance required for the job and avoid having to buy another tool when the wrong ones either breaks or underperforms.

Cleaner all in one waxes wont polish your paint...

3 step detailing your car is a long and back breaking job...i e done it by hand many many times...i just bought a flex and waiting fir it to arrive so i can have the tool do the heavy lifting while i can focus on results.

At the very least.... buy 3 step system if doing by hand.

If doing by hand get a prewax..which is fine polish...seal and glaze..bc honestly you wont remove scratches completely without a DA...the seal and glaze will fill in what you cant polish out by hand...

Then finish witg sealant or carnuba wax...if doing the 3 step system DO NOT use cleaner wax....it may remive the seal and glaze and then step 2 is undone with cleaers wax...you want standard NON cleaner wax.

What led me to finally take the plunge on the flex.

Gal recently skimmed the garage trim in 2 areas and skimmed the garage trim paint on a few of her panels...it took me about 45 minutes of shoulder /arm/hand muscle burning effort to remove it with prewax....the whole time i thought..if i only had that flex...this would be a 15 minutes breeze of a process.

A few days later i bought the flex...

[Mallowpuff]

Thanks for the info. I guess I got a long weekend ahead.

I hate to waste your time, but do you have any exact products in mine for the "3 step system"?

Maybe, eventually, I'll get a good polisher. But right now I can't justify spending $150+ on something that will be used 3-4 times a year. And that's still not to mention the learning process.

[Suek]

Yes the two bucket system. I showed my daughter how much dirt gets in the plain water bucket and said THAT you don't want going back onto you car. She OH! LOL

[Suek]

In my opinion I am not in business so my Harbor Freight DA does the job. Ok some may snickers but I've had it for years. I take it you guys don't trust the opinion of a woman. HAHAHAHA Autogeek like I said sells samples. Try a sample. Wolfgang total swirl remover cleaned up the paint. Then I used Duragloss that lasted a long time. I could feel during the winter when pushing snow off the car. Look at the reflection I got with the picture I posted above. Personally I stay away from Meg's stuff in the red bottle. I hate it. I hate a lot of their stuff. The Ultimate detailer I like.

[Mallowpuff]

I was actually planning on spraying the car wash and having one rinse bucket but I'm leaning more towards just the 2 buckets, 1 with car wash solution and one to rinse.

That's one of my problems, I can't get samples because currently I don't have an easy way of ordering anything. I'm not staying with Meguiar's because I love it(Because I don't know if I do) but because it's what's available at the local autoparts store. As of now, my only options are what Walmart and Autozone carry.

[Suek]

I apologize. You made a good point and I have been there. Nothing like not being able to do that. Just make sure that it isn't real hot. It may dry up on you in direct sun. My attitude about Meguiar"s comes from bad memories so pardon me. If you live in Connecticut I could let you borrow my sample.

[Toolhead]

I was actually planning on spraying the car wash and having one rinse bucket but I'm leaning more towards just the 2 buckets, 1 with car wash solution and one to rinse.

That's one of my problems, I can't get samples because currently I don't have an easy way of ordering anything. I'm not staying with Meguiar's because I love it(Because I don't know if I do) but because it's what's available at the local autoparts store. As of now, my only options are what Walmart and Autozone carry.

U have many options...1 of them being is calling AG sales line and sharing your goals and budget and having the guys offer you a product solution.

AG ships fast and their sales people know their products.

The sale that is going on is a GREAT VALUE.

You just have to wait for ground shipping from FL.

You can look up fedex ground transit times to your state on fedex.com...

I would NOT rush into bad products or being short cloths..applicators etc bc kf what local retailers have.

You will spend a day and half minimum on a full detail and its worth talking to knowledgeable sales people..having them recommend good products and then have it shipped so you realize more value ( better clearer paint) than spending all that time working with the wrong product which may not yield the results u are seeking.

Ive hand detailed in my driveway since i was 14 years old...thats 30 years ..so i know how to work with the 3 step system i was using...take your time and enjoy the process..be patient and wait fir that shine /mirror fijish when you wipe the final wax /sealant film off your cars....

Its a real milestone the first time

[Toolhead]

And pls be careful o what car wash you buy...make sure its not a built in wax car wash....you dont want to add crap onto your car before you detail...

And get a clay bar or the nano skin from AG...from your story..it sounds like the first thing you need post wash is clay and buy clay lubricant so you dont have to wash your car post clay...you can buy rinseless car wash and dilute it pee bottle instructions and use it for clay lubricant.

If you are buyi g by the bottle buy more clay lubricant than you think you need as you dont want to run out during clay jib and lose time going back to the store

[Toolhead]

Im a big advocate of working smarter with least amount of energy ...

.so to answer your latest question..bear with how i reply to help .

I wouldnt mix dishsoap in your car wash...your 4-6 month wax is long gone.

You will remove any slight traces after washing and claying and polishing your car.

Wash sponge n mitts is personal preferance and not as important to the detailing products imo.. you just want to ensure your car is clean if dirt..so use elbow grease when washing ..i prefer a mitt bc i can mitt it when washing vertical body panels..ensuring i am using force enough to remove dirt while minimizing effort. If youve noticed missed spots before..it was probably vertical body panels..bc people get tirwd after washing the roof and hood and its harder to hold the spong and exert force on the lower vertical body panels...mitt will help you ha e leverage using less energy...i unglove the mitt when reaching roof midline etc...a mitt really save a lot of energy when washing...you dont have to HOLD a heavy soaked sponge in your palm..thats when you glove the mitt...less energy ..working smarter..saving energy for the polishing steps. Order 2 grit guards one each for your rinse and wash bucket...i spent more to buy 2 diff color grit guards to distinguish between wash and rinse ...as i did when i bought my 2 bucket system...1 white and 1 orange....yes you will mix up the buckets ..bc after using the rinse buvket for a while..both buckets will have the same sudsy look when looking down in to the water...it will be hard to tell the difference...i actually bought a resin utility cart and place both buckets on the top so i can simply push the cart around the car as i need to...again..working smarter and using less energy for the mundane part of the process...conserving energy for the heavy lifting..which is the polishing phase....its a lot of unneeded energy loss to continually bend over ..lift heavy 5 gallon filled buckets and move them aroun d..as well as bending down to dip your mitt...with my wheeled resin cart solution...all that is elimimated ...when i dip my sponge..im dipping into a bucket shoulder height...reducing effort and back fatigue..

I also bought long handled tired brush and use a small 2 gallon bucket for the tires /rims and wheel wheels..the tire brush saves an amazing amount of effort and cleans that area much much faster...i sit on a fold out chair when cleaning the wheels..again working smart and conserving energy...less back fatigue.

The utility cart gets used for a variety of other helpful things saving energy and making jobs easier...ie..used it to change wiper blades and change car battery.....

Have a table next you easily reachable with your tools / products. Rather than having to reach down on the ground everytime or walking back and forth...also helps you keep organized and accidentally knock over bottles...drop clay bars or towels....and searching fir where you put your latest towel down...you may habe left it in the bathroom during your latest break...

Good luck and share the results of your first detail..