How often can a car be buffed before you run out of clear?

[TMQ]

This is just a big picture thinking on my part. I know there are many factors involving clear coats
on factory cars and cars that have "custom" work done = more clear than factory.

I know that clear is thin as a post it note.

I was just wondering what would be a general idea or approx. of how many times can one compound and polish a new car with factory clear?
5 times? Once a year x 5 = 5 years worth of compound/polish?

I did a search and do apologize if this question has been addressed.

This is just a compounding (cutting) and polishing question.

Tom

[Paul A.]

A very common and time tested question. I can only impart a combination of personal experience and knowledge gained online from the perspective of "professionals" with valued knowledge and experience.

I have a black 2007 BMW since brand spankin' new. I have done at least annual compounding and buff/polish sessions and still maintain outstanding gloss and sparkle. That's roughly calculated at 10-15/18 cut buff and polishes. The best way to tell would've been to baseline my paint film thickness when new and then document subsequent readings every time it was corrected. Without that I cannot document how much i've removed but know I still have fantastic clear gloss and pop.

I will add that this is my daily driver and i have gone from PC to rotary to Flex 3401 during its life. And from wool pads to super fine finishing foam to jewel. I will also add that i tend to the conservative side knowing I only have so much clear depth to work with and I plan on driving the wheels off of it. Or...burn through at some point and sell it. My annual corrections only go so far as to level and flatten the paint AND NO MORE. I pick up the usual very fine scratches and scarring from weekly washes on a black car and using AutoGeek standards of careful washing and drying. doing some quick math, that's roughly 338 washes!!!

[TMQ]

Thanks Paul! Your reply really helps a lot!
Thanks
Tom

[dennis hiip]

I wonder about this also, so I use the least abrasive possible. On my personal Benz, I use Menzerna 4000, CG Blacklight or paint cleaner. I also use a black pad, maybe white. I will be going to a coating.

[Joe@NextLevelDetail]

Nobody can answer that, Every paint measurement is different, some have thinner paint some thicker. Showcars have multiple layers of clear to go through multiple cut and buffs if needed.

Also if you did not have the car since new you do not know who worked on it before you.

I use this example alot, I had a customer come in with a new model s550, a dealership installed tons of rotary swirls all over the car, this car looked horrible to say the least. The highest paint reading i got was about 3.2 low areas was about 2.1. He wanted perfection and was willing to pay for it. However I told him hes not even a candidate for a 2 stage aggressive polish.

The car was so bad, we both agreed that there was not much to lose but only to gain,If all failed he was going to paint it. I did the best i could, and we did multiple coats of a coating to try to help maintain the car after. The whole job I felt so uncomfortable, It was like skating on thin ice.

So you never know this was a new model mercedes with only about 15-20k miles on it. So you never know.

But to try to answer your question, Mazda has really thin OEM paint the highest reading you get is 3.5mils other paints can range from 6-13mils

there is really no way to answer, The best answer I can give you is compound it once and make sure you never got to do it again lol.

[TMQ]

Thanks Joe.
I would've never known re the Mercedes! New car with 20K miles and you felt you were
on thin ice? This is good info right there.
All the more reason to carry insurance and have a paint thickness gauge!?!
Tom

[Joe@NextLevelDetail]

Thanks Joe.
I would've never known re the Mercedes! New car with 20K miles and you felt you were
on thin ice? This is good info right there.
All the more reason to carry insurance and have a paint thickness gauge!?!
Tom

Without the gauge I would have for sure went through the clear without a doubt.

Just goes to show you. You never know who worked on it before you what they used how many times it was buffed.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Autogeekonline mobile app

[Mike Phillips]

Just to chime in...

From the factory the clear needs to be 2 mils in order for the entire paint job to hold up.

Any thinner than this and it will fail on it's own. I obtained this from Dr. and share this on page 2 of my article here,


Beginning Clearcoat Failure



How much clear is on a car when YOU get to it is anyone's guess and most Paint Thickness Gauges read TOTAL FILM BUILD that's why I use them as what I call

A BIG PICTURE INDICATOR

That is they help me to decide real simple

Go or No Go

In other words am I going to take the job or not take the job and if I take the job am I going to use a true compound or merely a polish or cleaner/wax. (There's all kinds of ways to skin a cat)


A bigger picture would be this, AFTER you do the initial compounding (or whatever it takes to get the paint how you want it to look, you might only need a polish to get there), AFTER THIS - Stop doing the things that put deep scratches back into the car so you don't have to compound it again.

Or

Tell your customer to STOP doing the things that put deeper scratches back into the paint so you don't have to compound it again.


Make sense?


In my classes I teach guys to start a new client with GETTING INSIDE THEIR HEAD. This mean, find out how they are going to wash and/or treat the car after you detail it. If they want your ultimate package where you remove all the swirls out of the BLACK CORVETTE but then they are going to run the Corvette through an automatic brush style car wash.

Then DON'T do the ultimate package for this customer.


Think things through....

[Mike Phillips]

Check this out...


Evaluate the customer first!

[k20trick]

Some great words of wisdom right there!