McKee's 37 Paint Coating Not Resistant to Salt?

[TTQ B4U]

Lolz at anyone selling anything that "emulsifies salt". Salt is quite water soluble. You don't need special products to get rid of it - it easily dissolves in water.[/IMG]

That's what I was thinking. Most of the products I see targeting the need are for marine applications where the salt and scale build up is far different than road salts from winter.

I don't have any issue remove road salt and debris with regular products sold here every day. I'll do a small test when one of the cars is coated again. Before pics and after with just simply using Wolfgang Uber Rinseless. I'll soak the panel, let it dwell, then rinse it. That's all. It will likely leave some road grime but the salt crystals should be gone.

[maxman1]

This truck is used for for spraying beet juice on the streets of Chicago.


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[swanicyouth]

A few have recommended for ultimate protection to apply a spray wax after each wash to help protect your car better or protect your coating. The thing is, I think few of us are 100% convinced these coatings are holding up as they are supposed to. So, adding a spray wax is a bit demoralizing, because it makes you feel like - "since I'm using a spray wax frequently anyway, why not just use a traditional LSP and be done with it?"

If someone is using a coating, eye are expecting it to be significantly more durable than a traditional LSP - just as the manufacturers of these products claim. And, since coating failure *seems* to be a reality, once the coating is "contaminated" with a spray wax - I believe it makes the user wonder if the coating is still even there. And, if not - what was the point of using it???

Despite municipalities using beet juice and alternate salts to melt snow, I believe the majority of stuff still used to "salt roads" is still NaCl. Mechanistically, I am not sure how NaCl erodes a coating - or if it even is NaCl causing winter damage to LSPs.

You have to realize, often during winter in the NE - cars are filthy. Part of it is "salt", but part of it is just the volume of liquid suspended on the roads constantly melting and constantly bathing the lower panels of your car in filthy water. The roads seem to never be dry.

We see "salt" on the paint because it is white. So salt often gets blamed as the culprit. But in reality, cars are just more filthy in the winter. I believe, that is the actual culprit. If anyone knows the mechanism how a brine solution erodes a coating - please post it.

Also, regardless what type of "salt" it is. It's all highly water soluble. That is how "salt" works to de-ice the roads. It has to be water soluble. Some of the salt has to melt into a brine solution, to decrease the freezing temperature of water - limiting snow/ice. I don't believe any "special" cleaners help or are necessary to remove "salt". HOWEVER, stronger soaps or specialized cleaners may help just to clean a very dirty winter car that has been bathed in months of wet road filth liquid.

[Souldetailer]

A few have recommended for ultimate protection to apply a spray wax after each wash to help protect your car better or protect your coating. The thing is, I think few of us are 100% convinced these coatings are holding up as they are supposed to. So, adding a spray wax is a bit demoralizing, because it makes you feel like - "since I'm using a spray wax frequently anyway, why not just use a traditional LSP and be done with it?"

If someone is using a coating, eye are expecting it to be significantly more durable than a traditional LSP - just as the manufacturers of these products claim. And, since coating failure *seems* to be a reality, once the coating is "contaminated" with a spray wax - I believe it makes the user wonder if the coating is still even there. And, if not - what was the point of using it???

Despite municipalities using beet juice and alternate salts to melt snow, I believe the majority of stuff still used to "salt roads" is still NaCl. Mechanistically, I am not sure how NaCl erodes a coating - or if it even is NaCl causing winter damage to LSPs.

You have to realize, often during winter in the NE - cars are filthy. Part of it is "salt", but part of it is just the volume of liquid suspended on the roads constantly melting and constantly bathing the lower panels of your car in filthy water. The roads seem to never be dry.

We see "salt" on the paint because it is white. So salt often gets blamed as the culprit. But in reality, cars are just more filthy in the winter. I believe, that is the actual culprit. If anyone knows the mechanism how a brine solution erodes a coating - please post it.

Also, regardless what type of "salt" it is. It's all highly water soluble. That is how "salt" works to de-ice the roads. It has to be water soluble. Some of the salt has to melt into a brine solution, to decrease the freezing temperature of water - limiting snow/ice. I don't believe any "special" cleaners help or are necessary to remove "salt". HOWEVER, stronger soaps or specialized cleaners may help just to clean a very dirty winter car that has been bathed in months of wet road filth liquid.

Well put. IMHO, I believe that is the truth.

[ct18]

I am in Michigan and both cars have McKees coating and it seems clingy to me. This year seems the salt is sticking to it more than years past. I also don't like uber rinse less with the 37 and salt combo, it is streaky. I recently used my D114 and turned out nice. I love uber in the non snowy climate, just seems to streak in the cold and salt weather. I am a no pro by any means just a weekend warrior.

[TTQ B4U]

I am in Michigan and both cars have McKees coating and it seems clingy to me. This year seems the salt is sticking to it more than years past. I also don't like uber rinse less with the 37 and salt combo, it is streaky. I recently used my D114 and turned out nice. I love uber in the non snowy climate, just seems to streak in the cold and salt weather. I am a no pro by any means just a weekend warrior.

Do they use beet juice up there? One of the properties to it is that its sticky and helps prevent the salt from bouncing and getting kicked up by cars. I also imagine that it will sling if fresh though. Yuck.

[ct18]

We use more calcium chloride than beet juice but i believe it is just as stinky.

[spazzz]

Lolz at anyone selling anything that "emulsifies salt". Salt is quite water soluble. You don't need special products to get rid of it - it easily dissolves in water.

it does have a clinging sheeting property I don't get from ONR, D114 or plain ol water

[Cruzscarwash]

I had less clinging sheeting from 914 then I did with d114

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[Payton34]

There has been a lot of discussion about this recently so I'm doing some testing on my own. One things for sure, just because the beading has fallen of doesn't mean the coating has necessarily failed. In my area they use both rock salt on the roads as well as a brine solution (magnesium chloride). It's believed that the liquid chemicals are sticking to the paint and may require some form of chemical decon to release it and bring back the hydrophobic properties. I would suggest IronX, TarX, and possibly Optimum MDR, as that is what Optimum is suggesting you use.

Regular weekly washing seems to be keeping it in check so far on my wife's car, which is wearing OCP+. I did go 2 weeks without washing it once and the lowers fell off a little bit, but still beading well. There is some light tar on it now too so that could be the reason for the trailing off of the beading. If you go several weeks without washing its seems this will definitely kill the beading....Zach has observed the same I believe.

I set up a test on my truck last weekend with 8 coatings and one durable wax to see which stays looking cleaner, which releases dirt the best, and to see if there is a difference on how the winter chemicals affect their beading.

After last winter which coating did you find held up the best to the salt. I have been using Klasse Paint sealant topped with pinnacle royal sovereign wax for about 10 years and want to switch to a ceramic coating if it can truly last 2-3 years without having to clay and polish in the spring after the winter chemicals. Many ceramics say they last 2-3 years but I am skeptical on that in northern states.