New at detailing & first time using a polisher (PorterCable 7424XP)...Need some help w/ pads & Polish

[Poohbear]

Hello detailers,

I'm new to the detailing world and thought I would give it a try with my wife's 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe. We bought it used and it has some swirls and scratches plus a weird defect on the bumper that I would like to take care of. After reading some threads on the forum I decided to purchase some products during the Black Friday sale. I believe the only thing I have left to purchase are some pads and some microfiber towels. For pads I'm thinking of buying some Lake County CCS Smart Pads in orange, pink and white. Would those be okay for what I need to correct? Also, now i'm not too sure if the polish and finish that I purchased are too strong for what I want to do. I purchased the Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400 and the Menzerna Super Finish SF-3500. Would that be okay, or should I get something less agressive? This would be my first time using a polisher(Porter Cable 7424XP).

As soon as it stop raining, i'll take some pictures of the bumper and the defects I want to take care of. These are scratches and swirls I want to correct.

Thanks for any advice and help.

https://goo.gl/photos/ywnXgSjzHEqViDup8

Full list of products I purchased
Lake County 3.5" & 5" Flexible backing plate
Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound 400
Menzerna Super Finish SF-3500
Black Fire Wet-Ice Over Fire Kit
Poorboy’s Natural Look Shine 32oz + Spray nozzle & Microfiber applicator

[VISITOR]

pass on the ccs pads (beyond me why some still even consider these when you have so many other options these days) and get the lake country thinpro pads in both the 5.5" and 3.5" sizes. you will need to purchase a 3" DA backing plate as well...

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System

[MarkD51]

Looked at your pics. Basically, the vehicle doesn't look too unusual, just looks like it's not been washed carefully, and has gotten very little in the way of any paint protection applied from the previous owner.

Yes, I'll agree with Visitor, that probably the top pick for a foam pad for the PC7424XP would be the LC ThinPro Pads in the various types to have on hand. I myself would probably pick a good number of both the white pads, and perhaps some of the orange.

The type of pad will vary the degree of cut and correction with any given polish.

As the wise here would say, you should do the proverbial "test spot" on a section, and see what works, and IMO, it is better to do too little, than to do too much. Especially at first. You can always repeat a process in the future, but cannot undo excessive removal of the precious clear coat.

Another good finishing polish to have on hand, and I always do, is Meguiars #205 Ultra Finishing Polish in the Beige Qt Bottle. Can often be commonly found at many of the local big auto parts stores. It's an exceptional product, and can be counted upon to deliver a fantastic show car finish.

Don't forget to do some decon prior to polishing, and at minimum you should at least Clay the vehicle.
Going further, and getting even more of the nasties from the paint, then one should seriously consider an Iron Removal product such as Carpro Iron-X. It's a bit of a smelly process, but also quite an eye opening one as well, when one sees just how much iron contamination is imbedded in the paint's surface. Nothing at all wrong with Clay products like the Meguiars and Mothers Kits sold in the stores, they work. Remember to use plenty of lube, and a simple to get lube is Meguiars Detailing Spray in the Red Bottles. They work!

The Baggie Test will tell the tale. Examine the entire vehicle, even the glass as well by putting your hand inside a very thin plastic sandwich bag, and feel both the paint, and glass. You'll most likely find that all surfaces feel like sandpaper, and such should be addressed with both an Iron Remover, and Claying "prior" to any polishing processes.

There's no doubt countless vids that can be watched here, with our master Mike Phillips at the helm of many of the machines used, and as well countless vids can be seen on youtube as well. Not only Mike P, but others as well. There you will see proper use of such machines, how to do section passes.

Study such basics of operation, anything that Mike P has put up will essentially be gospel as to the proper uses and techniques for polishing.

[ski2]

As others have mentioned thin pads are the way to go. Megs also has some thin pads if you want an alternative to the Lake Country pads. Also, make sure you get enough pads per step. Here's a thread by Mike Phillips regarding the number of pads you need: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ut-my-car.html

[GSKR]

Thin pro pads they assist with the PC making sure it rotates.Get one grey pad for stubborn swirls,it's like hard cardboard and stiff but a must have.Nice color car btw.

[Paul A.]

I also highly recommend the Lake Country Thin Pro pads for use on a PC. That's not to say the CCS pads won't work (if you've already ordered) but IME/IMO the thinner pads work soooo much better on DA's. You may as well start off with the best pad option to give yourself better results right outta the gate! I would even go so far as to suggest a switch out with Nick at AutoGeek if you've already ordered and are awaiting arrival.

[GSKR]

I personally would use griots correction cream followed by HD speed.Or griots correction cream and the finishing sealant.

[Poohbear]

pass on the ccs pads (beyond me why some still even consider these when you have so many other options these days) and get the lake country thinpro pads in both the 5.5" and 3.5" sizes. you will need to purchase a 3" DA backing plate as well...

Lake Country ThinPro Foam Pad System

Thanks, i'll look into the ThinPro pads

Looked at your pics. Basically, the vehicle doesn't look too unusual, just looks like it's not been washed carefully, and has gotten very little in the way of any paint protection applied from the previous owner.

Yes, I'll agree with Visitor, that probably the top pick for a foam pad for the PC7424XP would be the LC ThinPro Pads in the various types to have on hand. I myself would probably pick a good number of both the white pads, and perhaps some of the orange.

The type of pad will vary the degree of cut and correction with any given polish.

As the wise here would say, you should do the proverbial "test spot" on a section, and see what works, and IMO, it is better to do too little, than to do too much. Especially at first. You can always repeat a process in the future, but cannot undo excessive removal of the precious clear coat.

Another good finishing polish to have on hand, and I always do, is Meguiars #205 Ultra Finishing Polish in the Beige Qt Bottle. Can often be commonly found at many of the local big auto parts stores. It's an exceptional product, and can be counted upon to deliver a fantastic show car finish.

Don't forget to do some decon prior to polishing, and at minimum you should at least Clay the vehicle.
Going further, and getting even more of the nasties from the paint, then one should seriously consider an Iron Removal product such as Carpro Iron-X. It's a bit of a smelly process, but also quite an eye opening one as well, when one sees just how much iron contamination is imbedded in the paint's surface. Nothing at all wrong with Clay products like the Meguiars and Mothers Kits sold in the stores, they work. Remember to use plenty of lube, and a simple to get lube is Meguiars Detailing Spray in the Red Bottles. They work!

The Baggie Test will tell the tale. Examine the entire vehicle, even the glass as well by putting your hand inside a very thin plastic sandwich bag, and feel both the paint, and glass. You'll most likely find that all surfaces feel like sandpaper, and such should be addressed with both an Iron Remover, and Claying "prior" to any polishing processes.

There's no doubt countless vids that can be watched here, with our master Mike Phillips at the helm of many of the machines used, and as well countless vids can be seen on youtube as well. Not only Mike P, but others as well. There you will see proper use of such machines, how to do section passes.

Study such basics of operation, anything that Mike P has put up will essentially be gospel as to the proper uses and techniques for polishing.

Thanks for the advice and suggestions. Luckily i've been looking at some videos by Mike Phillips to try and learn proper techniques when using my Porter Cable. I also already have some clay bar at home, so i'll definitely be using it along with the baggie test. When I order the pads, i'll see if I order some of the Carpro Iron-X.

As others have mentioned thin pads are the way to go. Megs also has some thin pads if you want an alternative to the Lake Country pads. Also, make sure you get enough pads per step. Here's a thread by Mike Phillips regarding the number of pads you need: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ut-my-car.html

Thanks for the suggestions, i'll look into both brands and the article by Mike.

I also highly recommend the Lake Country Thin Pro pads for use on a PC. That's not to say the CCS pads won't work (if you've already ordered) but IME/IMO the thinner pads work soooo much better on DA's. You may as well start off with the best pad option to give yourself better results right outta the gate! I would even go so far as to suggest a switch out with Nick at AutoGeek if you've already ordered and are awaiting arrival.

Thanks, luckily I haven't placed an order on the pads yet. Looks like the consensus is for the Thin pads, so i'll definitely be ordering those.

I personally would use griots correction cream followed by HD speed.Or griots correction cream and the finishing sealant.

I did see some other people mention having great results with HD speed, but that was after my order had shipped. i'll definitely keep this combination of products in mind for next time. Hopefully the products I ordered will fix the paint issue with my wife's car. The color does look nice, I just can't wait for it to pop once I get a chance to work on it.

[glfnaz]

Mark and others who mention the LC 'thin pro' pads.
Why the thin ones? I've got plenty of the LC flat foam pads, and I get quite pleasing results as a hobbyist, what's the advantage of the 'thin pro'?

Thanks in advance.

[MarkD51]

Mark and others who mention the LC 'thin pro' pads.
Why the thin ones? I've got plenty of the LC flat foam pads, and I get quite pleasing results as a hobbyist, what's the advantage of the 'thin pro'?

Thanks in advance.

The Flat Foam LC Pads you speak of work fine, I have many, as these LC Thinpro Pads have only recently come on the market.

Mike Phillips explains well the advantages of the ThinPro Pads, less mass, less weight, mean the PC D/A and other free spinning D/As will have a better ability of maintaining Pad Rotation.

The thicker a pad, they then also have a tendency to "absorb" much of the motion of the D/A's Backing Plate like a shock absorber, meaning less efficiency and solidity in both rotation, and oscillation at the Pad Face-Surface.

Back some years ago when I first got my PC7424XP here at Autogeek, the LC Flat Pads, like the ones we both have, were pretty much the "gold standard", and usually the #1 pick for these machines.

The same reasoning and principals will also apply basically to the thinner MicroFiber Pads as well, since they too are thinner,

Either the thinner MF Pads, or these new LC ThinPro Foam Pads will also be an aid, and give new life to Machines like the little baby Griots 3" D/A, which many have given up on due to lack of power.

Last couple times I bought some goodies here, I made sure I got me some of the ThinPro's, in both 5.5" and 3.5" sizes.