How much more aggressive can I get?

**CarlP2** · 11-14-2016, 09:36 AM

I'm new to the world of Autogeek detailing and DA polishers. I'm beginning to detail my black 2013 Mustang GT. I did a couple test spots on the hood this weekend using Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish with LC orange and white pads. After polishing, I still see some fine swirls, and the finish looks a little hazy too. Is there a more aggressive compound I can use, or should I work on my technique with the polisher?

Mike Phillips · 11-14-2016, 09:43 AM

Good questions...

Since you're new to machine polishing I would highly recommend you read this article...

DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide

Make sure have placed a black mark on your backing plate....

Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation

And read this too before we see a new thread from you about buffing through the clearcoat...

Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips

**Desertnate** · 11-14-2016, 09:47 AM

I think you are looking at two separate issues.

1. Something with more bite to get rid of the deeper swirls. Honestly, an orange pad with UC is pretty agressive, but there are a few compounds out there that are even more so. I have no experience with Ford's, so I'll defer to other members on product recomendations.

2. Haze after compounding. This is simply a result of using the compound. It eliminates the deeper defects, but you'll need to follow up with a finer polish to bring out the shine. Its just like when sanding wood. The larger grit sandpaper will get out the rough areas, but you'll need the fine grit to make things ready for stain/paint. UP is a good partner to UC, but there are a host of other good options here as well.

**CarlP2** · 11-14-2016, 09:51 AM

I think I am guilty of moving too fast over the surface.

**CarlP2** · 11-14-2016, 09:54 AM

Originally Posted by Desertnate

I think you are looking at two separate issues.

1. Something with more bite to get rid of the deeper swirls. Honestly, an orange pad with UC is pretty agressive, but there are a few compounds out there that are even more so. I have no experience with Ford's, so I'll defer to other members on product recomendations.

2. Haze after compounding. This is simply a result of using the compound. It eliminates the deeper defects, but you'll need to follow up with a finer polish to bring out the shine. Its just like when sanding wood. The larger grit sandpaper will get out the rough areas, but you'll need the fine grit to make things ready for stain/paint. UP is a good partner to UC, but there are a host of other good options here as well.

I should have given you more details. I did use the polish after the compound. Compound with an orange pad, polish with a white pad. My results aren't necessarily bad, they just aren't like the pics I see around this forum.

**WaxMaster1** · 11-14-2016, 10:23 AM

Originally Posted by CarlP2

I think I am guilty of moving too fast over the surface.

I was going to say slow down and also maybe more section passes and maybe some downward force 10+ lbs pressure. Just things to keep in mind, I'm sure you'll get it dialed in.

**Mantilgh** · 11-14-2016, 10:41 AM

The few Fords I have done where fairly hard, but it could vary from one to another.

The speed you move the machine will make a difference, and so will the amount of passes you make on that section.

Slower arm speed equals a longer time spent per pass. More passes per section equals more time per section. More time spent with the abrasives in contact with the paint equals more paint removed.

Reducing the size of the working section will allow you to make more passes over the section before the compound becomes less effective and the pad gets loaded with removed paint.

**CarlP2** · 11-14-2016, 11:03 AM

Originally Posted by Mantilgh

The few Fords I have done where fairly hard, but it could vary from one to another.

The speed you move the machine will make a difference, and so will the amount of passes you make on that section.

Slower arm speed equals a longer time spent per pass. More passes per section equals more time per section. More time spent with the abrasives in contact with the paint equals more paint removed.

Reducing the size of the working section will allow you to make more passes over the section before the compound becomes less effective and the pad gets loaded with removed paint.

That's one thing I'm not sure about. How do I know when it's time to clean the pad or put a new one on?

Mike Phillips · 11-14-2016, 11:52 AM

Originally Posted by CarlP2

That's one thing I'm not sure about. How do I know when it's time to clean the pad or put a new one on?

In a perfect car detailing world, you would use one pad per panel for the correction step.

As pads become saturated, especially foam cutting pads, they loose their cut or aggressiveness. Thus it takes longer to do the same correction work in the same time after the pad becomes saturated than when you first started out.

This is why I say,

More pads are better...

Let your budget be your guide. Also, by switching to a clean, dry pad often your pads will last longer over time since you're not punishing them and pushing them to their limit.

This is probably one of the most common topics I talk to people about when talking to people new to machine polishing.

Here's my article on this topic...

How many pads do I need to buff out my car?

**TTQ B4U** · 11-14-2016, 12:34 PM

I'm assuming you have a standard DA Polisher like a Porter Cable or Griots? vs a forced rotation one like the Flex 3401?

As noted above by Mike, it's imperative that it's spinning/rotating for full correction. and performance. Perhaps slow down your arm speed. Another key piece I'd toss out there is for you take your time and be very measured with your technique in the beginning so you know exactly how to proceed going forward. Arm Speed, number of passes, type of pad and pressure all play in. Track it closely so you know what works and how much you need. I keep notes and pics on ALL the vehicles I do so I can better estimate things down the road.

Here's a before an after of a Camaro I just did. Relatively hard clear coat but this was done with HD Adapt with a little Meg's Ultimate Polish mixed in as it really helps extend the working time. I'm ran a Flex 3401 with Orange Hybrid Force pads, 4 passes and that is what I stuck with on this car. Wasn't aiming for 100% correction based on the package I sold, but of course I will take as much as I can get. Overall most areas were darn near 95%+

Any before and after pics of yours? Happy to help! Looking forward to seeing the progress. Also, don't beat yourself up fixing it 100% this go-round. Take your time, enjoy, but remember you can and likely will polish it again down the road and it can be after reading up and trying to products, etc. My personal car wasn't 100% for the first crack at it. Part of the fun is learning along the way.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Better view outside with a real camera vs cell phone: