I'm assuming you have a standard DA Polisher like a Porter Cable or Griots? vs a forced rotation one like the Flex 3401?
As noted above by Mike, it's imperative that it's spinning/rotating for full correction. and performance. Perhaps slow down your arm speed. Another key piece I'd toss out there is for you take your time and be very measured with your technique in the beginning so you know exactly how to proceed going forward. Arm Speed, number of passes, type of pad and pressure all play in. Track it closely so you know what works and how much you need. I keep notes and pics on ALL the vehicles I do so I can better estimate things down the road.
Here's a before an after of a Camaro I just did. Relatively hard clear coat but this was done with HD Adapt with a little Meg's Ultimate Polish mixed in as it really helps extend the working time. I'm ran a Flex 3401 with Orange Hybrid Force pads, 4 passes and that is what I stuck with on this car. Wasn't aiming for 100% correction based on the package I sold, but of course I will take as much as I can get. Overall most areas were darn near 95%+
Any before and after pics of yours? Happy to help! Looking forward to seeing the progress. Also, don't beat yourself up fixing it 100% this go-round. Take your time, enjoy, but remember you can and likely will polish it again down the road and it can be after reading up and trying to products, etc. My personal car wasn't 100% for the first crack at it. Part of the fun is learning along the way.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Better view outside with a real camera vs cell phone:
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