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Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
Originally Posted by Klasse Act
Yeah using the word "polish" here is a literal term and like I said earlier, none of the DG "polishes" are aggressive enough to correct anything really. I wonder why they have never gotten around to actually producing a polish, maybe use M101 as the benchmark and go from there. After that let's see a tire coating....carry on, LOL!
Agreed, "Polish" is a poor label here. #501 is heavy on paint cleaner & light on sealant. #105 is heavy on sealant and light on cleaner. Neither is abrasive.
Rick....now in North Texas
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Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
Originally Posted by RTexasF
Agreed, "Polish" is a poor label here. #501 is heavy on paint cleaner & light on sealant. #105 is heavy on sealant and light on cleaner. Neither is abrasive.
Maybe their term of "polish or polishing agents" refers to the use of chemicals vs. abrasives? Take HD Cut for example, it combines abrasives plus chemical cutting ability. I don't know, just thinking out loud.
"Challenge yourself to live a better tomorrow than you did yesterday"
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Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
Originally Posted by rwright
I don't know, just thinking out loud.
I learn something every time you think out loud, keep doing it!
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Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
Originally Posted by Mike Honcho
That can be scary! I rarely take things for face value and do a lot of research to better understand products. I'm a very big Duragloss fan so I have called them a few times to better understand their products. I was very confused about their polishes so I called and asked for some guidance. Basically the answer I received was each one was a step increase in cleaning ability. After that was explained my immediate thought was to relate it to foam pads. We have different levels of cutting ability with foam pads based on the task at hand. Different paint systems respond differently to not only pad choice, but also chemical choice.
Being on the production side of things now, my understanding of detailing chemicals has greatly improved. I don't know everything obviously, but I make an effort to learn something every single day.
"Challenge yourself to live a better tomorrow than you did yesterday"
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Super Member
Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
Received the reply from DG and no the 531 is not discontinued. So apparently PBMG is not carrying it, luckily DG's shipping is reasonable.
Dave
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Super Member
Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
When using 105, 501 and 111 (mixed with 601) how many section passes do ya'll make? Pad pressure? (I'm using a PC DA polisher.)
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Super Member
Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
Those are different. For 111 I would do one pass only. It's a sealant only - there's no correction or cleaning taking place with it. I can't see any reason to do more than one pass. I would go light on pressure and use a pad with no cut, probably a blue or red pad (Lake Country - others may be different).
I think multiple passes would be fine for 105 or 501. I think they're more cleaners than abrasive polishes. I'd do a test spot and see how much is coming off the paint. If you're getting any dirt off I'd go with a couple of passes until it's clean. If you can't see it on the pad, clean it on a white towel and see how that looks. Should be pretty clear if it's removing any contamination.
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Super Member
Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
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Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
I just used 105 by hand on a seemingly clean light silver 4Runner. I was blown away by the amount of dirt that came off. The applicator pad was black after just one quarter panel that looked totally clean to begin with. So, I'd suggest that 105 has a fair amount of chemical cleaning ability (which I already knew, but this confirmed it again).
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Super Member
Re: Duragloss product definitive guide
Typically, should a car be corrected first, then 501 applied or vice versa?
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