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  1. #71
    Super Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    I use 501 after correction. Always. For me, 501 is either a stand alone product to clean the paint if no correction is needed or as a last step after correction and just before LSP.

  2. #72
    Super Member BillyJack's Avatar
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    Quote Originally Posted by Puckman View Post
    I use 501 after correction. Always. For me, 501 is either a stand alone product to clean the paint if no correction is needed or as a last step after correction and just before LSP.
    I do the same. I'll premix with 601, so I can apply my LSP immediately. If time's not available, I can always apply LSP a week or two later.
    Don't rule out 105. Not nearly as aggressive of a cleaner as 501, but still does a respectable job with greater longevity.

    Bill

  3. #73
    Super Member RippyD's Avatar
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    Update on 271, Rubber and Flat Black Dressing. I keep trying other stuff and keep coming back to this for hard plastic, except for the wiper cowling. For some reason it won't keep that dark and good looking. On my other black plastic it seems to be superior to most other stuff. (Have not compared it to PERL - have some on the way.)

    However... one negative I did notice. I did have the black trim on the back of my LR3 with 271 and half with Blackfire AIO Trim and Tire Protectant. After a few days the 271 side had noticeably more dust on it than did the Blackfire side. This may be one reason to use BF vs. DG. Sorry DG fans - hate to give a negative report.

    Note that I prefer 271 in every other way - goes on easier, doesn't run, doesn't look blotchy, etc. BF is good a well - I just find it harder to apply, it needs more time to dry, and may need several coats to get even coverage. Still using 271, btw. Price to performance on a car with a lot of black trim, I can live with the extra dust.

    Hmmm... maybe a light coat of BF a day or two after a heavy coat of 271 would solve the dusting problem... need to test this.
    2006 LR3 White // 2014 Boxster Agate Gray // 2012 Sentra Aspen White
    Sealant test resultsxxxxxDilution ratio chartxxxxxWheel cleaner info

  4. #74
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    Quote Originally Posted by RippyD View Post
    Update on 271, Rubber and Flat Black Dressing. I keep trying other stuff and keep coming back to this for hard plastic, except for the wiper cowling. For some reason it won't keep that dark and good looking. On my other black plastic it seems to be superior to most other stuff. (Have not compared it to PERL - have some on the way.)

    However... one negative I did notice. I did have the black trim on the back of my LR3 with 271 and half with Blackfire AIO Trim and Tire Protectant. After a few days the 271 side had noticeably more dust on it than did the Blackfire side. This may be one reason to use BF vs. DG. Sorry DG fans - hate to give a negative report.

    Note that I prefer 271 in every other way - goes on easier, doesn't run, doesn't look blotchy, etc. BF is good a well - I just find it harder to apply, it needs more time to dry, and may need several coats to get even coverage. Still using 271, btw. Price to performance on a car with a lot of black trim, I can live with the extra dust.

    Hmmm... maybe a light coat of BF a day or two after a heavy coat of 271 would solve the dusting problem... need to test this.
    I have some 271 on the shelf but haven't tried it yet. Can you compare it with WETS? Similar products? I have used wets and love it.

  5. #75
    Super Member RippyD's Avatar
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    Have not tried WETS. Have some on the way and will report back after I compare. Have tired Blackfire AIO Trim Protectant, Megs Back to Black, Adam's In and Out spray, and a few others. Keep coming back to 271 for my bumpers and wheel trim.
    2006 LR3 White // 2014 Boxster Agate Gray // 2012 Sentra Aspen White
    Sealant test resultsxxxxxDilution ratio chartxxxxxWheel cleaner info

  6. #76
    Super Member RippyD's Avatar
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    WETS still not here. I also have Solution Finish on the way, which I suspect is going to crush everything in terms of darkening.

    Unrelated but relevant to this thread, I did a comparison of DG APC, Opt Power Clean, and Blackfire Interior Cleaner. I was testing out the Blackfire for a review and was surprised at how well it cleaned relative to the others. Then I thought that maybe I'm running my APC too lean.

    I typically use DG APC at 20:1 for my interior, maybe 30:1 for the dash and areas that aren't dirty. I had the back of a seat that was filthy from a kids shoes (in a car seat) and did some testing. I did tests with DG at 20:1, 10:1, and 3:1, the Blackfire, and Opt APC at 10:1 and 3:1. They all cleaned pretty well. Opt at 3:1 and Blackfire were about equal. The higher ratios didn't do nearly as well.

    But the DG at 3:1 removed all the dirt before I even wiped it. There were clean streaks where the cleaner ran down the seat. This 3:1 DG out cleaned the others by a lot. Not if it's a better cleaner or just stronger. I went over the seat with a water-only MF twice in case it was too strong for leather. I have a lot of OPC to use up. After that I'll move to DG. Very impressive cleaning compared to OPC, which I think is very good btw.
    2006 LR3 White // 2014 Boxster Agate Gray // 2012 Sentra Aspen White
    Sealant test resultsxxxxxDilution ratio chartxxxxxWheel cleaner info

  7. #77
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    Can I top Autoglym SRP with 105/601?

  8. #78
    Super Member RippyD's Avatar
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    Re: Duragloss product definitive guide

    You could but I don't know why you would. You're covering a light polish/cleaner and sealant with another light polish/cleaner and sealant. I would use one or the other and then top it with another sealant if you like. Not sure why you feel the need to layer them. If you want to cover the Autoglym, I would use one of their products to sure it would bond. Or use a prep solution, in which case there's no point to using a sealant.

    If you want to top 105/601, I would use 111/601 or a wax like Collinite. 111/601 combo is pretty hard to beat. Great shine and ~6 months of durability.
    2006 LR3 White // 2014 Boxster Agate Gray // 2012 Sentra Aspen White
    Sealant test resultsxxxxxDilution ratio chartxxxxxWheel cleaner info

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