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Super Member
I used a 2 part epoxy, with a 2 part clear coat. One thing you need to consider is the. Clear coats from lowes or home depot WILL yellow and look like sh**. I did my own epoxy and came out good, IMO rent a diamond grinder and grind all imperfections. Put concrete caulk on all the expansion joints so it looks good or better yet make it flush with a concrete filler. Do it right because if so it will last a long time. Btw check out EpoxyCoat.com they just started selling their kit at lowes, only thing you need to get off their site is the clear coat which is UV resistant.
David 2000 Ford F-350 DRW CCLB BLACK/GOLD
Wish list:
Everything Mike has in his garage for detailing
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Super Member
Btw with the stuff I used no primer needed, but contact them to make sure.
David 2000 Ford F-350 DRW CCLB BLACK/GOLD
Wish list:
Everything Mike has in his garage for detailing
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Re: Epoxy for garage floors
on one garage i used rustoleum. was not inpressed . on my other garage i used quikrete . i have to say that quikrete is the better of the 2
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Super Member
Re: Epoxy for garage floors
Originally Posted by Jomax
I used a 2 part epoxy, with a 2 part clear coat. One thing you need to consider is the. Clear coats from lowes or home depot WILL yellow and look like sh**. I did my own epoxy and came out good, IMO rent a diamond grinder and grind all imperfections. Put concrete caulk on all the expansion joints so it looks good or better yet make it flush with a concrete filler. Do it right because if so it will last a long time. Btw check out EpoxyCoat.com they just started selling their kit at lowes, only thing you need to get off their site is the clear coat which is UV resistant.
Any clear coat that is oil based will yellow or turn gold.
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Super Member
Rustoleum professional with a coat of their clearcoat on top
Ryan
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Ryan
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Re: Epoxy for garage floors
I did my garage floors about 3 years ago and they still look great. I put this floor through some abuse. My only complaint is that I allowed a puddle of anti-freeze to dry on the floor and it permanently stained the floor.
I roughly spent about $200 dollars for material and supplies. This what I used;
Muriatic Acid
Behr Concrete Primer
Behr Epoxy Concrete Paint (they has various colors to choose from)
Rustoleum Premium Clear Epoxy
After a weekend of work I had a very professional looking floor.
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Super Member
Originally Posted by superd
I welcome any suggestions or experience you can share regarding recommended brands or how to apply epoxy to the garge floor. My builder wants to charge around $1,500.00 to do the job.......wife said ABSOLUTELY NOT at that price but she did agree to the "do it yourself" price with the following products;
-Rustoleum
-Quickcrete
Any feedback? I'm reading mixed reviews
Thanks
I wouldn't use either of those systems. I have seen then both and weren't impressed. I have used epoxy-coat and the sherwin williams brand epoxy. The sherwin williams brand is my favorite. It has a longer working time, plus you get better uv protection bc it comes with a clear coat, and gloss coating, so if your doors are up alot this will resist the yellowing effect. Also the shark grip, slip resistance that comes with this system is much finer, wheres the slip resistance with other systems is very course and hurts to walk on barefoot. Also you can buy more decorative flecks, with other systems ive found it difficult to buy indivdual packs of flecks. The prep is by far the most important part. I like a system that uses phosphoric acid, vs muratic acid....word of advice, make sure you stop @ the garage threshold. Paying a contractor that much is crazy, but I also wouldnt skimp and buy an $80 kit. you will have to see it everyday, you dont want to regret bc once its down its down! Goos Luck!
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Regular Member
Re: Epoxy for garage floors
Originally Posted by A-train
I wouldn't use either of those systems. I have seen then both and weren't impressed. I have used epoxy-coat and the sherwin williams brand epoxy. The sherwin williams brand is my favorite. It has a longer working time, plus you get better uv protection bc it comes with a clear coat, and gloss coating, so if your doors are up alot this will resist the yellowing effect. Also the shark grip, slip resistance that comes with this system is much finer, wheres the slip resistance with other systems is very course and hurts to walk on barefoot. Also you can buy more decorative flecks, with other systems ive found it difficult8 to buy indivdual packs of flecks. The prep is by far the most important part. I like a system that uses phosphoric acid, vs muratic acid....word of advice, make sure you stop @ the garage threshold. Paying a contractor that much is crazy, but I also wouldnt skimp and buy an $80 kit. you will have to see it everyday, you dont want to regret bc once its down its down! Goos Luck!
I am definitely going to research Sherwin Williams. I have an account with them & get a discount. I didn't know they had a garage kit. How long did it take you to finish the process?
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Super Member
Re: Epoxy for garage floors
Originally Posted by superd
I was told it takes 28 days for concrete to fully cure. Does moisture fall under the 28 day rule or is this a separate issue?
For type 1 cement, which is typical for home construction, it takes 28 days to reach the designed compressive strength, it is still curing after that - in theory, the Pantheon is still curing. There are 5 types of cement (that ACI recognizes) that can be used in concrete, each have different curing times or chemical resistant properties. As a benchmark, on heated interior installations I have the contractor wait 3-6 months before sealing joints in concrete to ensure a full cure, if necessary they can seal after 2 months but I don't sleep well when they do. For exterior installations I have them seal joints prior to any freezing weather, but wait as long as possible. Again, I'm talking joint sealant, not epoxy coating.
The issue with curing is shrinkage in the concrete, if you don't wait long enough you apply the coating, then the slab shrinks and you get wrinkles and delamination in flexible coatings and reflective cracking the rigid coatings. Even at 90 days of cure you have only reached 20-35% of the max. shrinkage.
In terms of Moisture, choose an appropriate type of coating, there are breatheable and non-breatheable. I have seen cases with a high watertable and no vapor barrier under the slab, where moisture wicks up from the soil and with a non-breatheable coating you get blistering in the coating.
BASF is a great brand. Disclaimer: ALWAYS follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
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Super Member
Originally Posted by superd
I am definitely going to research Sherwin Williams. I have an account with them & get a discount. I didn't know they had a garage kit. How long did it take you to finish the process?
I opened an account and got discount pricing, its really quite fairly priced. I was doing a 500 sq ft shop. start to finish it took a including prep it took 3 days. By no means was that me working all day for 3 days. once the main coating was down (4.5) mils thick, I waited 24 hours the started my clearcoat and gloss coats allowing 12 hours to dry in between. so the last two days I may have had 1 or 2 hours a day in it. Another benefit I forgot to mention is that it while putting the flecks down in the main.coat, if your not satisfied with the coverage u have thrown out or u want more you can always add more when u put down ur clearcoats. this was helpful for me bc I wanted heavy flecks in mine and was able to add throughout the process.
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