Haze after final polishing and waxing?

[SL500]

Hey Mike, thanks for replying. Love your tutorials and product reviews! I've learned a tremendous amount which is why this problem is a bit perplexing!

Yes, it's C040, which is why I went with the Menzerna line of compounds/polishes.

Al

[Mike Phillips]

Hey Mike, thanks for replying. Love your tutorials and product reviews! I've learned a tremendous amount which is why this problem is a bit perplexing!

Yes, it's C040, which is why I went with the Menzerna line of compounds/polishes.

Al

Okay well contrary to just about every opinion I read from others about Ceramiclear paints in my opinion they polish out great and polish out EASY.


So my concern is 1 has the Ceramiclear top surface been compromised?

If it has, consensus is the underlying paint can be very prone to micro-marring.

Read my article here,


Ceramiclear Paints - Be Careful



If this is the case then you're going to need to finish out using either SF4000 or SF4500.

Get it as good as you can and then seal her up.

[Setec Astronomy]

Mike, correct me if I'm wrong, and I don't know how Menzerna characterizes the "compatibility" of their polishes with Ceramiclear, but the way I remember it the polishes they brought out specifically for use on the Ceramiclear paints were SIP, PO85RD, and PO106FF, followed by Power Finish later.

In this case the OP started with Power Gloss which would not be my first choice for a compound today due to the older abrasive technology it uses compared to FG400. I'm sure there are people that find the price/performance point for PG makes sense for some applications, but for myself I don't think a black M-B is one of them.

[SL500]

Thanks for the great replies:

Mike: I think your Ceramiclear article pretty much describes my situation. The chances are good that since I bought the car used, it had been compounded at least once, maybe more, and then with me applying the Menzerna Power Gloss 1000 to remove the water spots, I took off what was left of the top nano-chemistry. Micro-marring is a good description for the appearance.

Setec Astronomy: I started with the Menzerna SIP and it wasn't enough to diminish the appearance of the water marks and RIDS, so I went up the Menzerna abrasion chart one step and selected the Power Gloss. Maybe the FG400 would have been a better choice, but I saw it as being more abrasive (two steps up), and I didn't want to risk damaging the clear coat. Looks like I may have ended up there anyway.

Here's where I'm at: I went over the hood with the SF3500 making several very light passes. The haze seems to be gone and if it is there, I won't be able to tell until I'm in bright sunlight. If so, I'll go with the SF4500 and, as Mike says, seal her up!

I'm guessing there's no more aggressive polishing in my future with this car.

[Setec Astronomy]

Well, I just typed a long reply but it seems to have been lost.

I don't see where you noted what machine you used, can you tell us what machine/pad/speed you polished at? And how much polishing experience you have?

[SL500]

Sure. My experience is somewhat limited. Prior to working on my current car, I polished my previous silver 2003 SL500, which I believe also had a Ceramiclear clear coat. I only used Pinnacle Swirl Remover, and the Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion as a pre-polish, both with a Porter Cable. Haven't used anything more aggressive until now.

I'm using a Porter Cable 7424XP with the following on the black SL:
Power Gloss 1000: Yellow Lake Country Smart Pad with the PC set to 5
Intensive Polish: White Lake Country Smart Pad with the PC set to 5
Super Finish Polish: White Lake Country Smart Pad with the PC set to 5
BlackFire BlackICE: Applied by hand with a foam wax applicator

See anything I could have done differently?

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, correct me if I'm wrong, and I don't know how Menzerna characterizes the "compatibility" of their polishes with Ceramiclear,

I think you're right about Menzerna targeting their products as compatible with Ceramiclear paints but in my opinion any high quality compounds and polishes that use great abrasive-technology will work fine.

The BIGGER picture is to

A: Avoid putting scratches into Ceramiclear paints in the first place.

B: Avoid using aggressive products altogether.

C: If you have to use an aggressive product keep the use to a minimum.

D: If you're working on a Ceramiclear finish that has been compromised then tread carefully, lower your expectations of perfection and use an ultra fine cut jeweling polish to finish out.


Also might try the McKee's Jeweling Wax when it becomes available. My guess is it would work very well for this application i.e. an LSP.



Our new SL500 has the Ceramiclear finish. We bought this car with 9000 miles on it and zero swirls and scratches and because I use my "Careful Approach" to washing a car I doubt it will ever need to be polished using a compound or even medium cut polish.

[99monguse]

Other then Mercedes, what other brands use ceramic

[Setec Astronomy]

See anything I could have done differently?

My initial thought was simply that you didn't break the PG down enough and left some hazing that wasn't corrected in your subsequent steps. But I just went and rubbed some PG between my fingers and it felt pretty smooth--it's been forever since I've used it--I must be thinking about another compound that you could actually feel the grit.

I'd listen to Mike Phillips, not me.

[SL500]

Mike and Setec Astronomy,

Thanks a lot for your posts. I think I got to a good place with it. I applied the LSP last night and went with the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant this time, a product I've been using for years that gives me good durability. It looks great today and 100% better than when I started. You can still see the water spots on close inspection but they're fainter and greatly diminished. If the sun's out in the next few days, I'll post some pics.

So, just one more question: Since my clear coat is compromised to some degree, have I sworn off all polishes for this car, or could I judiciously apply something like a SF3500 or SF4500 in the future as needs dictate? From Mike's posts, it sounds like maybe the 4500 or a jewelling polish would be still be fine.

Hmm, maybe I need to be looking at BMWs in the future...

Thanks for all your help! I'll keep watching and learning.


Al