So I had a white Ford Fusion in pearl white today. It had major road grime embedded in the paint everywhere but the client was set on a AIO(because of wanting little to no abrasives and price). After claying with meguiar's white clay I noticed a little marring where excessive claying was necessary to remove "rust dots" and what seemed to be tar or rubber(little spots all down side of car and a few on hood). While the car was pretty badly swirled it was hidden by the pearl unless looking at it perfectly, and se with the marring. What can I do in the future to quickly and SAFELY remove this without marring for people who do not want abrasives or simply cannot afford them? I don't have pics of the marring as I inly noticed it in perfect lighting conditions just before the client picked the car up but I do have a pick of some of the grime.
Kerosine or bug and tar remover. wash the area with soap and should be all good…
The grime actually wasn't where I had the marring occur. It's where(and no I didn't get a pic as I was already taking too long on this detail, my ocd kicked in on the interior where I was only payed for a quick wipe down but I started cleaning thoroughly) the "rust dots" were. The clay removed the. But it also left some slight marring from excessive effort to remove. Yet the customer wasn't willing to pay for a two step and didn't want any heavy abrasives even though the car needed it. Ended up using gg6 with 5" plate and Meg's microfiber finishing pad and gg one step sealant.
Maybe some Iron X for the "rust" spots and Tar X for the grime, tar, rubber etc. Then no claying and AIO.
So how do these products work and how to use them without marring? Spray on use microfiber towels to agitate? Seems like another expense to add in. Just now working out my pricing. Thanks for any help
Yes, i can understand how that will affect pricing however i don't get any marring from either product. Thinking that was your primary concern i thought some easy (but, yes, somewhat expensive), rather non abrasive methods might be considered.
I spray on my Iron X and let it dwell for maybe a minute or two. I then spritz a little on a grout sponge and gently wipe it all in and then rinse the vehicle thoroughly. This stuff is amazing at reacting to the imbedded metallic contaminants, turning purple as it finds them.
My Tar X routine is very similar. Spray on the tar area, let it sit for about a minute and then spritz a MF towel and wipe the tar away. Again, a full rinse off and good to go.
I don't let either product dry on the paint. Plus both of these methods take very little time for me to do.
The grime actually wasn't where I had the marring occur. It's where(and no I didn't get a pic as I was already taking too long on this detail, my ocd kicked in on the interior where I was only payed for a quick wipe down but I started cleaning thoroughly) the "rust dots" were. The clay removed the. But it also left some slight marring from excessive effort to remove. Yet the customer wasn't willing to pay for a two step and didn't want any heavy abrasives even though the car needed it. Ended up using gg6 with 5" plate and Meg's microfiber finishing pad and gg one step sealant.
You've gotta use an iron removing product, such as Iron X. Just spray it on these spots let it sit for a few minutes then rinse it off. This will remove a majority of the iron deposits that are causing the rust spots as well as a majority of the rust. Or you could try TriX I think it is? It's a tar and iron remover combo.
If you only use those products where you've got visible problems they'll go a long way.
Further - have you tried a polishing pad with GG one step sealant rather than a finishing pad? I would think that an AIO would be able to take care of light marring from clay.
It is your job to educate your customer. If they insist on a procedure that you know will not work then tell them so. You are letting them tell you your job instead of telling them (selling them) what is required to do it properly. If they just won't come around then let them walk. I've done it several times with those that thought they knew more than I did and never regretted it even once.
It is your job to educate your customer. If they insist on a procedure that you know will not work then tell them so. You are letting them tell you your job instead of telling them (selling them) what is required to do it properly. If they just won't come around then let them walk. I've done it several times with those that thought they knew more than I did and never regretted it even once.
I've only had this situation a couple times on white with the hard to rove iron deposits and neither of the others got the marred paint. So this was a first for me. I even hit one area with a orange ccs pad and gg one step and it didn't help. Of course again I had to look at it just right under flourescent light is to see the marring. But after one section pass of four slow passes the Orange finished well but at the time didn't notice the marring and didn't seem to need the cut so I moved to the megs finishing MF. Thanks for the reponses so far
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Originally Posted by psdnuts
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