Sanded through Clear Coat on 1999 Chevy Silverado

**techcode** · 06-22-2013, 08:34 PM

I made a very foolish error for the first and the last time -- I've sanded through the clear coat on my 99 Silverado. Please see attached pictures -- it's significantly worse in real life than the pictures illustrate. I recently purchased the truck and it had stains and tar that elbow grease and bug/tar remover wouldn't budge. I used a small hand sander (yes, I know, very dumb) and was able to remove the stains. I had water constantly running (my logic being it would keep from "burning" the clear coat) and what I didn't realize was I was indeed removing the clear coat. I've had a couple estimates to have the truck sanded, painted with base and clear coats and the low-end estimates run 700-900. It's a 99 model with 180K miles. I'm reluctant to spend this much on a work truck but also am not a fan of the chicken-pox paint. Do you have any suggestions?

Much appreciated.

**Flash Gordon** · 06-22-2013, 08:37 PM

I can't even see it. Leave it alone

**techcode** · 06-22-2013, 08:39 PM

It's more visible in the first picture (driver-side door) than the second but can assure it's very visible in person. Everyone notices it right away. I'll spend the funds to re-paint if required but I'd appreciate any ideas you may have on buffing or polishing? Thanks

**Flash Gordon** · 06-22-2013, 08:48 PM

Originally Posted by techcode

It's more visible in the first picture (driver-side door) than the second but can assure it's very visible in person. Everyone notices it right away. I'll spend the funds to re-paint if required but I'd appreciate any ideas you may have on buffing or polishing? Thanks

If you've sanded through the clearcoat it is to late for buffing

**glen e** · 06-22-2013, 08:52 PM

Last year I had a friend that put painters tape on the front of his accord for a road trip and when he pulled off after a trip, off came the clear with it in a 2 inch by 6 inch patch. He was quoted 450 to repaint the whole hood and did not want to do that so he asked me to do what I could.

I taped off the spot - acetoned it, and sanded with 3000. Then 4 coats of rattle can clear. Let it dry for a week and then started the long road back: rotary/wool with compound, then polish, then orbital with 205 and finally cleaner wax. We got it so you could only see it from a foot away.

**Phathooddetail** · 06-22-2013, 09:35 PM

looks like 2 different pictures. did you mean to do this or are there 2 different sanded spots?

**Paul Mitchell** · 06-23-2013, 02:27 PM

Talk to a reputable dealer and ask them who does their spot paint repairs. I had a scratch in a quarter panel on my Mustang and a detailer attempted to take out the scratch and burned through the clearcoat. He recommended a body shop that primarily works with large dealerships and they gave me a bid for $175.00 on a spot repair. My favorite body shop wanted $800.00 to paint the quarter panel and tint and blend into the door. I wanted it done right as the Mustang was three months old so I chose the body shop and had them fix it but only charged the detailer for the spot repair. You should be able to find somebody to spot repair the damage.

**mavin** · 06-23-2013, 02:35 PM

Couldn't he buy some opticoat and put it on the car if it wasnt worth the expense of a whole respray?

**techcode** · 06-23-2013, 08:31 PM

Originally Posted by mavin

Couldn't he buy some opticoat and put it on the car if it wasnt worth the expense of a whole respray?

Would I follow the general Opti-Coat instructions -- prep the quarter panels (both the spots where I burned through the clearcoat and locations that are good) and then apply?

Cody

**rmagnus** · 06-23-2013, 11:12 PM

Originally Posted by techcode

I made a very foolish error for the first and the last time -- I've sanded through the clear coat on my 99 Silverado. Please see attached pictures -- it's significantly worse in real life than the pictures illustrate. I recently purchased the truck and it had stains and tar that elbow grease and bug/tar remover wouldn't budge. I used a small hand sander (yes, I know, very dumb) and was able to remove the stains. I had water constantly running (my logic being it would keep from "burning" the clear coat) and what I didn't realize was I was indeed removing the clear coat. I've had a couple estimates to have the truck sanded, painted with base and clear coats and the low-end estimates run 700-900. It's a 99 model with 180K miles. I'm reluctant to spend this much on a work truck but also am not a fan of the chicken-pox paint. Do you have any suggestions?

Much appreciated.

Yes you can spot repar it yourself. First your pictures are hard to make out. Is the second one rotated?

Anyway buffing further will not help so don't do it. You can scuff around the area and spray rattle can 2K clear. Repair a bigger area than just the damage. Back tape (fold over) the masking tape to avoid hard lines. Spray at least 4 lays of clear let it cure for a week before wet sanding and buffing. Wait a month before waxing.