Strange OptiCoat happening

**Setec Astronomy** · 08-21-2012, 06:56 PM

If you are worried that 15% IPA will not cut your soils, and that Mineral Spirits or PrepSol will evaporate too slowly or leave residue, it's clear to me you need to do a MS/PrepSol initial wipe, followed by a 15% IPA wipe to remove anything the first step left.

**swanicyouth** · 08-21-2012, 07:14 PM

Thanks for the offer Chris, I just saw it. I already have and use all the Optimim Polishes, but I didn't use them when I OptiCoated this vehicle. I also use, OID, Opti Spray Wax, Opti Clean, OptiBond, & ONR. Both my vehicles have Opticoat on the wheels that is holding up fine. I decided not to re-coat the vehicle at this time. I have it protected with conventional wax and sealant.

**coredump4** · 08-27-2012, 08:42 AM

So I'm about to embark on my first Opti-Coat 2.0 application. The patient is covered by 3M VentureShield in the front, and the rest of the car has Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Questions I have after reading through this thread:

1) I think OC will adhere to the 3M film, and the film's installer said it would be fine to put OC on top of it. Any prep I need to do to the film? I obviously don't want to use a DA on the film and I'm hesitant to use most (if any) chemicals on it.

2) For the non-film surfaces that have Wolfgang DGPS on them, what's the best way to remove this product? It lasts a really long time and it was applied less than 60 days ago. I'm hoping a couple of washes with Dawn followed by some Eraser will do it. If necessary, I will polish the car with the DA again, but I have already perfected the paint and REALLY don't want to have to go another round with the DA. But if I must go this route, would something like 4 Star Ultimate Pre-Wax Cleanser on a grey buffing pad be enough do you think? I ask this because I have limited compounds "in stock" right now. I also have some Meguiar's 82 (Swirl-Free Polish) as well.

Thanks for all the advice in the thread, it's been really good to see this discussion prior to my first go with OC!

**fishbonezken** · 08-30-2012, 03:53 AM

Originally Posted by swanicyouth

In March of 2012 I polished out my vehicle finishing with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. After I wiped it down with 20% IPA and Opticoated it. At the time I didn't realize how significant the "glaze" is in Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. Since, I've realized it does leave a significant glaze behind.

Since then, I've applied different spray waxes to it after washing. I wash it weekly, and it always beads well. About a week ago I applied PB White Diamond and Nattys to exactly one half the good to see if there was any durability. Before applying that, I cleaned the hood with IPA and Sonus APC to kill any of the spray wax.

Yesterday I washed the vehicle and the waxed half didn't bead at all. So I figured the Nattys was gone. So, I decided to clean the hood only with the Sonus APC 30:1 to remove any residue to re apply the spray wax. Sonus says this product is OK to use on paint an it removes wax
Nicely.

However, after cleaning the whole hood after washing, I noticed it appeared the OptiCoat was gone! I thought maybe this was a remnant of the Sonus cleaner, so I cleaned it again with Griots Paint Prep. Gone! The water just sat on the hood with no sheeting or beading whatsoever.

Thing back, ever since I coated this vehicle it always beaded well. When I first washed it after coating it I recall it beading well. Since then, it's beaded we'll and evenly while washing, and whenever it rains. However, I always apply
A spray wax after washing to slicken the surface and boost gloss.

After I noticed the hood wasn't beading, I wiped half the front fender with APC. It still beaded well. Looking back, I should have wiped down the whole vehicle while it was clean and I had a hose out to see of this problem was isolated to the hood.

For some reason, it seems the OC is gone from at least the hood of my vehicle. I wondering if has has to do with my initial polishing with the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze? Maybe it wasn't all wiped off, even though I did extensively wipe it down with IPA.
But why only the hood??? I'll have to strip all the spray wax off the vehicle and rinse it again to be sure it's isolated to the hood only.

Anyway, last night I ordered another syringe of OC and a liter of eraser. I plan on polishing (hopefully only the hood) with Optimum Finish Polish, cleaning with Eraser and re coating. I'm hoping it's only the hood.

A few questions:

1. Has experience shown Erasor is able to kill any left over wax or polish?

2. Anyone have any idea what happened here or a similar experience ?

Thanks

I don't think this has anything to do with the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze interfering with the bonding process as you mentioned the other areas of the car still has strong beading from the Opti-Coat.

It's pretty obvious that the Opti-Coat has been removed by the PB White Diamond, although it is a cleaner/glaze, I suspect there could be very mild abrasives in it that has abraded the Opti-Coat away. If it did not fully remove the opti-coat, it might have removed the 'top coat' that provides the water repellent function of the coating. Just my guess.

**swanicyouth** · 08-30-2012, 08:54 AM

As it turned out, the OC was gone from the whole vehicle. The beading was coming from the Primo Hydro spray wax is use on it after every wash. That stuff beads like no other. Since I was using that after every wash and washing frequently, I never noticed there was a problem until I decided to try topping the the OC with other things.

**Radarryan** · 06-27-2013, 03:46 PM

Sorry to re-hash an old thread, but I am concerned after reading this. First, I have done two vehicles with Opti-Coat 2.0, my 2013 Porsche 911 and my mom's 2012 BMW X5. I followed the directions to a T: my car used Optimum Polish II and Finish while my mom's used M205. I used the 15% IPA solution, as stated in the directions from Optimum, to prepare the surface for bonding. Are you all, Chris included, saying that Opti-Coat will not bond to the paint using the IPA solution because the solution is too weak. I am concerned because I did not sure any mineral spirits, full strength IPA, or APC because the directions say I do not have to and the 15% will be sufficient.

Are the manufacturer's directions wrong or misleading? I prepares the surface AS STATED but now am learning that this was incorrect? I do not want to re polish, decontaminate, and re Opti-Coat my cars because of an error on the part of the manufacturer. Please someone let me know if the Opti-Coat is going to wear off both my and my mom's vehicles after proper preparation as per the directions. Heck, I even bought the Optimum applicator to ensure I was doing everything correctly.

Thanks and happy detailing!

**ihaveacamaro** · 06-27-2013, 03:49 PM

the only way you'll know for sure is with time. FWIW, I polished my car with optimum products and then only did a damp mf wipedown before applying opticoat. 8 months later and is still going strong.

**Radarryan** · 06-27-2013, 04:02 PM

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

the only way you'll know for sure is with time. FWIW, I polished my car with optimum products and then only did a damp mf wipedown before applying opticoat. 8 months later and is still going strong.

For sure. Thanks Roshan for your input. The main reason I'm concerned/angry is I hate to have wasted all that time, money, and energy on a "permanent solution" only to have it last as long as a sealant. I have no problem shelling out the money for a coating if it does as the manufacturer claims. If it doesn't, especially when following the manufacturer's directions, then I'm gonna be pissed. If they knew 15% IPA, or at least had circumstantial evidence from customers, wouldn't be strong enough or wouldn't cut it, then they shouldn't advertise it as such or put it in the directions. I think everyone can agree with that...

**ihaveacamaro** · 06-27-2013, 04:54 PM

Originally Posted by Radarryan

For sure. Thanks Roshan for your input. The main reason I'm concerned/angry is I hate to have wasted all that time, money, and energy on a "permanent solution" only to have it last as long as a sealant. I have no problem shelling out the money for a coating if it does as the manufacturer claims. If it doesn't, especially when following the manufacturer's directions, then I'm gonna be pissed. If they knew 15% IPA, or at least had circumstantial evidence from customers, wouldn't be strong enough or wouldn't cut it, then they shouldn't advertise it as such or put it in the directions. I think everyone can agree with that...

I think if you followed Chris' instructions or Optimum's instructions, you will have best results. There would be no reason for them to give wrong information and mess up the press of their own product after all.

**Chris Thomas** · 06-28-2013, 12:35 AM

I don't use IPA at any dilution, but that's a personal choice because I don't like the lack of lubrication and I believe it could re-deposit what it loosens due to its fast flash time.

The directions Optimum gives is to follow "Optimum" polishes with IPA pre coating and I am positive that is good info because Optimum polishes can be followed with nothing more than a water dampened microfiber and be ready to coat.

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